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i need advice damnit (long/rant)

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Old 02-28-2007, 02:39 PM
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new injectors will require new software. turbo alone can be run on IA 2, MRC 2, MTM 1+ etc
Old 02-28-2007, 02:43 PM
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Default Not to burst your bubble, but I think you'll still have trouble chasing down STI's and RS4's...

IMHO of course, I'd be happy to be proven wrong here.
Old 02-28-2007, 02:50 PM
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Default ok as far as the rod bearings go i dont mind replacing those

do you think the pistons and rods will be fine.

What makes you say that mike if im at 120 more hp than an sti im well aware our cars weight more, and as for the rs4 its not what every makes it out to be ive driven one on more than one occasion and yes i was on it hard with the stupid lil sport button pressed.
Old 02-28-2007, 02:50 PM
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Default This project is really for me.....not looking to chase any particular car but........

I do want to surprise the sh*t out of lots of people and just have some all around fun with a sleeper wagon.
Old 02-28-2007, 02:52 PM
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Agree with Fast4est......with that many miles just go MTM 1+ and enjoy.
Old 02-28-2007, 03:34 PM
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Default if you run chip and very good maintanence you will get more responsive power

or you can see just how far these engines can get pushed.
Samco boost hoses
FMIC DIY
RS2 or GT2871 turbo
RS2 or 034 replica manifold
high flow injectors
and software to run this setup
could push you close to 350-400 hp at crank
stock exhaust is good still (depends on condition)

I bet you could do this under $3000. there are 20VT out there with 300,000+ miles running higher HP, but it potentially could cause problems. I'd say give it a shot if you can fix it when/if it breaks.

if people can put heavy mods on at 200k, then I say 300k can be done too.

there is an RS2 kit on AF for 2500
Old 02-28-2007, 03:34 PM
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Default No red&blues here, man.

I'm just saying - in the time I've been here, power mods are just about the most talked-about thing. HIDs, brakes and "my car is stumbling/bucking - what do I do?" are coming up fast.

Ball-bearing vs. journal-bearing, Motronic vs. stand-alone, custom headers, bottom-end work at what level of crank HP...

The subject is huge, and without some level of pre-research, you're going to be buried in info, and not be able to put into context the info you get from folks - some of which will be at odds with what other people say.

It's a curse, in a way, that these cars can stand so much modding and still be faithful daily drivers.

*That's* the point I'm trying to make.
Old 02-28-2007, 03:38 PM
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No doubt in my mind you'll achieve that.
Old 02-28-2007, 03:43 PM
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Default ask how it would be from a 30mph roll start instead of off the line

URS is not a drag car, not a race car. it is a high power touring car capable of much more power and much better handeling. All around it is a very impressive car that will win you more girls than races against the STi

if your looking for best way to kill STi's I'd say 97-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX, cheaper to mod. but might be just as expensive to fix
Old 02-28-2007, 03:51 PM
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Default Probably the best compromise between power and reliability...

...is the factory solution.

RS2.

968 MAF
Bosch green tops
RS2 EM
RS2 turbo
Software (MRC Stage 3, or similar).

Bottom end is safe, long block doesn't need to be touched, 24-28PSI boost.

And it's robust.


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