GoHeels

Thanks Dave, I'm going to get 1 right now, to test all 5 coils before I drive home today. I assume I can ground on the engine ground or the threaded ground for jumper cables, and look for a spark as I crank the car.
- Do I need to somehow disconnect the fuel injectors while I turn the ignition for each coil, cause I'm thing the car will probably start.
- Also, I haven't reset the ECU since I got the 2413 Code last week. Does that matter or will it keep me from really knowing if the new G62 made a difference or not. I will unplug the battery while I am gone to get the tester, and hopefully that will reset the ECU. I hate to dig the passanger floorboard out again.

UrS4boy

Just clip the tester to part of the block/cam cover.

Disconnect the electrical connections to all five fuel injectors to prevent starting and spraying fuel into cylinders with no spark (the one you are testing).

LOL. I haven't had the plastic ECU cover over my ECU for probably 8 years. Just the carpet and two mats. So pulling the fuse in the red constant power to the ECU fuse holder is very easy for me. Otherwise, yes, to clear the codes, you will need to disconnect the battery for a few minutes (you need the radio code before you do this though).

GoHeels

Back with Lisle tester. Not sure how far the spark "should" jump, but I set it on 10mm and all 5 made that jump. They seem to spark about 2-3 times per second, not just constant sparks.

Was kind of expecting 1 of them not to make the 10mm gap. Should I open it farther than 10mm, seems pretty big compared to plug gap.

eta - just did all 5 again with someone else cranking, all 5 were strong and similar sparks at 10-11mm. If spark is strong, I don't see how injectors could cause rich fuel, unless injectors are giving too much fuel, if that's possible.

lliejk

I can't remember how far I set mine, but one was obviously weaker than the other 4 and if I widened the gap didn't make it when the others did.

Which sparks are you running, there was a post on the net about the F5DPOR plugs have QC issues.

If it's a temperature based thing, I wonder if you have a thermal problem somewhere, where a companent fails or flakes out only when warm? Does it ever happen on a cold or cool engine?

Ed

GoHeels

I put in a new set of the Bosch DTC plugs in November, and the 1st time I cranked the car it had NO hesitation and ripped up to 120 perfectly. Then next day I felt the hesitation a little on a trip, and a few days later it was back hesitating like usual. Before that I had the F5DPOR plugs.

If the car is cold it will boost nicely, but as soon as it warms up a mile down the road it will hesitate with more than 50% throttle/boost. If I'm light on the boost I can usually get it to not hesitate, and if it starts hesitating you have to back off the throttle some or it just sorta flutters.

Going to wait and drive back tomorrow.

GoHeels

Well, I'm speechless. On the 200 mile drive north today, the Audi drove like a champion, never once skipping a beat. Has to be the best the S6 has ever driven, for that long. I started out going easy on her, never more than ~50% throttle, just scratching the turbo. Then, as I got to interstate I-26 leaving town, I started getting into the boost a bit more, assuming it would flutter when I asked for too much, but it never did. It lasted the whole way. I even cut it off to grab Chipotle, and it still ran like a charm to the house.

I got 1 small fuel reading, an 83 mile stretch that took 3.3 to 3.5 gallons to replenish. So that would put me back in my normal ~24mpg range if it holds true. She's back home in her outside garage, and I probably wont drive her again till next week. But I'll check the vitals over the weekend and see how everything looks. Even if it was a fluke, it was fun while it lasted.

moorewr

Here's hoping it's no fluke!