Is my clutch broken or am I bleeding wrong?
#1
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Ok, I got a pressure bleeder... set it to 20 psi, and tried bleeding, but it really did not flow all that well. At that point I had my wife get in the car and pump the clutch pedal as if I were bleeding it normally, but I left the pressure applied. and that got the clutch feeling normal after 10 or 15 pumps. I put it on the ground and it STILL won't shift into any gear, but if you turn the car off, slip it into first and then start it, the car will creep along with the clutch engaged, but when you let the pedal up, it drives normally and does not slip one little bit.
The slave, master and the hose in between are all new. I had one person suggest pulling the slave back out and re-seating it on the off chance that I "missed" on the first attempt.
I will be doing that in a few minutes, but I am kinda convinced that the clutch has died. Am I wrong here? Did I bleed it wrong? I just REALLY don't want to replace the clutch... so I am hoping for some "good" news!
The slave, master and the hose in between are all new. I had one person suggest pulling the slave back out and re-seating it on the off chance that I "missed" on the first attempt.
I will be doing that in a few minutes, but I am kinda convinced that the clutch has died. Am I wrong here? Did I bleed it wrong? I just REALLY don't want to replace the clutch... so I am hoping for some "good" news!
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When I bled the clutch, at 10 psi (20, are you nutz!?!), the fluid was ripping out of the bleeder screw.
It sounds like there's a blockage between the reservoir and the bleeder screw.
I dunno if that would give the other symptoms, but it explains the bleeding behavior.
It sounds like there's a blockage between the reservoir and the bleeder screw.
I dunno if that would give the other symptoms, but it explains the bleeding behavior.
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It is a lot easier to do when you know where to put your hands!
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I guess it is time to order a clutch and get real comfortable riding my bicycle for a few weeks... :-((((
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is more with the release mechanism seeing that when you depress the clutch the car still wants to move forward. If all things were good with the throwout bearing and the slave through to the master cylinder, then it appears as though you have too much meat on your clutch (so it is thicker than new) "not likely" The fact that the car wants to move when the clutch is depressed is key, generally when the clutch is worn it take very little effort or pedal travel to release the clutch.
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When I try to shift into reverse there is a sound of gears trying to mesh, but no dice. All of the forward gears just don't work, but when you push a little harder the car will start to move, but it is not even close to being "in" gear.
Like I said before, if I turn the car off, put it in first and start it again, the car starts but moves as it is cranking. Once I get it started, and take my foot off the clutch, it drives fine and does NOT slip at all, I just cannot fully disengage the clutch so I can't shift.
Like I said before, if I turn the car off, put it in first and start it again, the car starts but moves as it is cranking. Once I get it started, and take my foot off the clutch, it drives fine and does NOT slip at all, I just cannot fully disengage the clutch so I can't shift.
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#8
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What did the old slave pin look like, if it was spalled or ratty looking perhaps the release arm has worn through and generally when a throwout or release bearing fails they are quite noisey. If you broke some release fingers off the pressure plate that should be noisey as well. It really seems that you aren't getting an effective release rather than slipping and stinky clutch wear.
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the pedal went all the way to the floor with barely any release...but by simply pressing the pedal again and again and letting it up slowly (in fact, I think I might have had to pull it up with my toe)...it finally pumped up and the clutch was ready to go. Probably took 10 pumps of the clutch pedal.
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