UrS4boy

1. Purchase five Bosch F5DPOR spark plugs
2. Use 5 mm allen hex socket to remove the four bolts holding the "20V Turbo" coil pack cover down, as shown in the diagram. Note: there are springs underneath the coil cover that push the cover up as you loosen the bolts. I always loosen the hold down bolts evenly from rear to front rather than totally removing the rear one and then the next one, etc.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15624/sparkplugremovaltorques.jpg">

3. As you remove the bolts, place them somewhere, e.g. black plastic plenum tray where you won't lose one. (Don't ask).
4. When they bolts are all out. Grasp the coil pack cover by both ends and lift straight up until the spark plug connectors ("boots") clear the top of the cam cover.
5. Then lay the coil pack cover on its back,spark plug connectors up, on the black plastic injector cover.
6. Examine the connectors. If they ripped or discoloured, you should consider replacing them. They are made by Beru and typically can be purchased for about $5 from a non-dealer parts supplier. Audi part number is 034 905 447. (Beru 0 300 122 103)
7. Examine the OE coil wires. If they are showing signs of cracking, you will need to replace the wiring as soon as possible. This is a source of high boost missing.
8. Examine the spark plug wells. They should be clean. If they are rusty looking, the coil pack cover gasket (a big rectangular "O" ring) needs replacing. If the wells are oily, you need to replace the cam cover gasket (includes spark plug well gaskets).
9. Find (or purchase) the smaller size spark plug socket. Spray the inside, including the rubber grommet with WD40. This will help prevent the socket from sticking on the spark plug. (Don't ask).
10. With the small sized spark plug socket on a long (at least 6 inch) extension (locking IF possible), and a torque wrench, try tightening (clockwise) the plugs to 30 Nm or 22 ft-lb. This is just a test to see IF any of your plugs have tried to come loose. (Lots of times they do). Don't try too hard because you are about to remove them. (NOTE: Sometimes,if you forgot the WD40 trick above, or you don't have a locking extension, the spark plug socket will get stuck on the plug. Don't panic. (Don't ask). All you need is a large pair of needle nose pliers to retrieve the socket. (NOW spray it with WD40!!)
11. Remove the spark plugs (counterclock-wise) one at a time. Lay the plugs somewhere, in order, so you can examine them when they are all out.
12. Examine the ends of the plugs. They should be a light beige (whitish brown). IF they are black, it may indicate a fuel issue. IF they are black and oily, you may have either a cam cover gasket problem OR a valve seal or ring problem.
13. Clean the bottom of the spark plug well. I like to use a vacuum to suck out any debris (shouldn't be any but...) and then use a cotton cloth wrapped around a 5/8" dowel to muck out any residuals. This will help to seat the new spark plug compression gasket/washers.
14. You may want to do a compression and leak down test at this point (Find instructions elsewhere). IF you do a compression test, remove Fuse No. 17 from the panel at the end of the dash (with the left hand front door open) to prevent the injectors from working during the compression test.
15. If you are skipping the leak down test, then start installing the new F5DPOR spark plugs, one at a time: spray the socket with WD40 if you hadn't already, insert the plug into the socket hand then with just the socket and plug on the end of the extension, start the plug by hand (clockwise). Continue until the plug bottoms on the gasket and then connect the torque wrench. Torque to 30 Nm or 22 ft-lbs. Repeat four more times.
15. Add the new spark plug connectors to the coils if they need replacing.
16. Holding the coil pack by both ends, pick it up, turn it so the connectors are pointing down and lower the whole until down, making sure the connectors go down their respective spark plug holes.
17. When you reach the point where the springs contact the cam cover. Grab one of the coil pack cover bolts you stashed conveniently close by and push down on the coil pack cover while installing (by hand) the first coil pack cove bolt in one of the two holes closest to the middle of the coil pack.
18. Then grab another bolt, push down and install it in another hole. Continue this, by hand, until you have all four bolts in their holes and well started. (I do this by hand only until the cover is almost touching or is touching the cam cover.
19. With a 5 mm allen hex socket, tighten the cover bolts until they are snug. (I go middle, end, the other middle, the other end, etc. until they are all nice and snug.)
20. About a week of driving later. Remove the coil pack cover and retorque the plugs (ONLY turn clockwise - DON't back off and retorque - JUST TIGHTEN).
21. Check torque once or twice per year or more (e.g. at each oil change).

HTH

UrS4boy

Ha. Ha. Some noobies don't even know WHERE the 'plugs are.

Bill the Cat

Before removing the plugs - blast the wells out with compressed air.

If you don't have the small plug socket - or hate the rubber boot in the plug socket (like I do) - use a 5/8" deep well socket - remove the plugs with a magnet afterning turning 'em out. When installing. wedge the plugs into the socket with a bit of the plug box cardboard. Blast the bits out of the well with air AFTER all 5 are installed.

Some like to use never seize on aluminum heads - if you do (I am not going into for or against arguments here) use only a VERY small amount on the threads at the BASE of the plug. I have never heard of plug seizing problems on these engines - so I don't use it. (I DO on air cooled OTOH.)