turbo BT:(questions at bottom) the other day my car started to buck and hesitate on the freeway
10-12-2006, 09:45 AM
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turbo BT:(questions at bottom) the other day my car started to buck and hesitate on the freeway
and when I stopped and opened the hood the turbo was smoking a little and I was hearing an unhealthy noise like grinding? coming from the engine bay, I cant say the turbo area directly but possibly.
I have been mrc stge2 chipped for a couple of months and previously checked for boost leaks and couldn't find anything.
Well I was convinced I had developed a boost leak when I chipped the car and that I may have ran with the leak too long and blown the turbo, so yesterday I took it to my mechanic.
The symptoms I reported beforehand: a whistling noise coming from the engine at boost and the bucking/hesitation as well as a general lack of power. I described the turbo smoking/grinding and suggested a boost leak, that may? have stressed the turbo.
They diagnosed a failing turbo due to the whisting sound and they put a stethoscope on and confirmed it this way, said it was a bad bearing.
1. Does this sound right? Is there a way to confirm without removing the turbo or should I get a second opinion?
2. I found a used k24 for $150 or...my chip is an mrc stge2 with rs2 mapping. I could go bigger maybe a TO4E? I know a manifold is a good idea at this point as well...
I have been mrc stge2 chipped for a couple of months and previously checked for boost leaks and couldn't find anything.
Well I was convinced I had developed a boost leak when I chipped the car and that I may have ran with the leak too long and blown the turbo, so yesterday I took it to my mechanic.
The symptoms I reported beforehand: a whistling noise coming from the engine at boost and the bucking/hesitation as well as a general lack of power. I described the turbo smoking/grinding and suggested a boost leak, that may? have stressed the turbo.
They diagnosed a failing turbo due to the whisting sound and they put a stethoscope on and confirmed it this way, said it was a bad bearing.
1. Does this sound right? Is there a way to confirm without removing the turbo or should I get a second opinion?
2. I found a used k24 for $150 or...my chip is an mrc stge2 with rs2 mapping. I could go bigger maybe a TO4E? I know a manifold is a good idea at this point as well...
10-12-2006, 09:50 AM
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Your car is broken.
Made you look!
To determine radial and axial play in the turbo shaft, take off the MAF -> turbo hose and fiddle with the end of the compressor shaft. I can't remember what the specs are for end-play and radial play, but if it moves around much, it's probably toast. Especially radially - thats in the direction of the housing. Axial play is along the length of the shaft.
For reference, my 100k+ K24 has no play in either direction that I can feel.
If that $150 K24 is in good shape, use it. The Garrett will require an RS2 EM, you can bet on it.
To determine radial and axial play in the turbo shaft, take off the MAF -> turbo hose and fiddle with the end of the compressor shaft. I can't remember what the specs are for end-play and radial play, but if it moves around much, it's probably toast. Especially radially - thats in the direction of the housing. Axial play is along the length of the shaft.
For reference, my 100k+ K24 has no play in either direction that I can feel.
If that $150 K24 is in good shape, use it. The Garrett will require an RS2 EM, you can bet on it.
10-12-2006, 09:52 AM
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Pull the turbo to MAF boot off and check for play in the turbo.
Grab the little nut on top of the compresser wheel and try to move it laterally in relation to the way the turbo spins. If it's hits the side of the housing, then the turbo is shot.
