2000 A6 Non-Bose sound system diagram?
#1
2000 A6 Non-Bose sound system diagram?
Does anyone know if/where I could find a diagram illustrating the sound system layout/speaker sizes/wiring for a 2000 A6 2.7T without BOSE? This way I can look at what I have before I start ripping stuff up. I am trying to design a system focusing more towards just replacing, as opposed to modifying/creating holes. Of course any other kind of input in the sense is appreciated, too. Thanks!
#2
Wiring diagram won't show sizes...
...but I emailed one to you anyway.
In a non-Bose car, the HU is powering the front door midwoofers and tweeters.
The non-Bose amp, which is strapped to the Tupperware sub in the back, runs the sub and the rear speakers. It's not very good. Only rear preouts are available at the OEM amp.
The midwoofer speakers in the front door are 165mm "6.5" speakers. They bolt to the back of the door panel, like the B5 A4, but are larger. You usually want to use foam tape between the speaker frame and the door panel. Damping the back of the door panel isn't a bad bet either. Remove the single phillips screw from each end of the door panel, and the door panel pops up.
The tweeter is held in with a metal clip which rarely fits any aftermarket tweeters properly. Usually high-temp silicone hot melt glue or some other more permanent adhesive is good.
I *think* the rear doors are the same as the fronts. Since I believe that rear speakers are the devil's work, I have never gone in there.
Your HU is in non-Bose mode. This means that the speaker output and the R preout are heavily EQ'd. IT MAY mean that the F preout is disabled, I don't know. This means that if you replace your speaker drivers without replacing the amp, you are limited in power, and due to the EQing your speakers may sound good or may sound like crap.
The EQing takes out bass at higher volumes, so if you are adding a sub you will be disappointed in non-Bose mode.
If you add an aftermarket amplifier, you want to force the HU into Bose mode. I *believe* that with a non-CAN radio this is done with a VAG-COM.
There is a cool DIY for a C5 allroad that is bookmarked on my other computer. I'll look for it.
I suggest getting a harness from TeddyBGame.
In a non-Bose car, the HU is powering the front door midwoofers and tweeters.
The non-Bose amp, which is strapped to the Tupperware sub in the back, runs the sub and the rear speakers. It's not very good. Only rear preouts are available at the OEM amp.
The midwoofer speakers in the front door are 165mm "6.5" speakers. They bolt to the back of the door panel, like the B5 A4, but are larger. You usually want to use foam tape between the speaker frame and the door panel. Damping the back of the door panel isn't a bad bet either. Remove the single phillips screw from each end of the door panel, and the door panel pops up.
The tweeter is held in with a metal clip which rarely fits any aftermarket tweeters properly. Usually high-temp silicone hot melt glue or some other more permanent adhesive is good.
I *think* the rear doors are the same as the fronts. Since I believe that rear speakers are the devil's work, I have never gone in there.
Your HU is in non-Bose mode. This means that the speaker output and the R preout are heavily EQ'd. IT MAY mean that the F preout is disabled, I don't know. This means that if you replace your speaker drivers without replacing the amp, you are limited in power, and due to the EQing your speakers may sound good or may sound like crap.
The EQing takes out bass at higher volumes, so if you are adding a sub you will be disappointed in non-Bose mode.
If you add an aftermarket amplifier, you want to force the HU into Bose mode. I *believe* that with a non-CAN radio this is done with a VAG-COM.
There is a cool DIY for a C5 allroad that is bookmarked on my other computer. I'll look for it.
I suggest getting a harness from TeddyBGame.
#3
Re: Wiring diagram won't show sizes...
Wow, thanks. That was fast. I didn't even know the non-Bose had the sub/amp. I suppose I wasn't looking hard enough. Good to know, though. Now I just need to find the right equipment. My goal I for sound quality, not boominess. I listen to a lot of heavy metal with a lot of double-bass and such so tightness in regards to the bass is of great importance. I appreciate your help and input!
#5
are you replacing the factory headunit...or keeping it?
Also, if I were you, I would recommend using dynamat or another sound deadening material while your car is apart. It is well worth the time and $$ investment.
-Ted
-Ted
#6
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The diagram please
Levent
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