Is 600W rms for sub channel overkill?
02-13-2003, 11:39 AM
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Is 600W rms for sub channel overkill?
I was wondering how much power everyone has for their sub(s).
I currently have a Sony XM7554 running 220Wrms into a JL12W3 at 4ohms and it doesn't seem to have that SLAM that I've heard in other systems.
I was looking into a 600Wrms @ 2 ohms class D amp, but in order remain at one JL sub I'd have to get an expensive 12W6AE (which is still only rated at 500W).
Does this all sound correct? Do you really need all that power and expensive subs to have the bass shake your body? I thought 220W was more than enough when I bought the amp.
I'm dying for any opinions. Thanks.
I currently have a Sony XM7554 running 220Wrms into a JL12W3 at 4ohms and it doesn't seem to have that SLAM that I've heard in other systems.
I was looking into a 600Wrms @ 2 ohms class D amp, but in order remain at one JL sub I'd have to get an expensive 12W6AE (which is still only rated at 500W).
Does this all sound correct? Do you really need all that power and expensive subs to have the bass shake your body? I thought 220W was more than enough when I bought the amp.
I'm dying for any opinions. Thanks.
02-13-2003, 02:55 PM
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I shake my entire car, body, and everyone inside of it with 200W
Your enclosure must not be designed properly. A 12W3 with 220W should SLAM pretty damn nicely.
I hit 135dB weith 2 10w4's with 100w each. That's by no means monstrous but it's enough to shake the entire car and make you go deaf if you listened to it at that volume.
I hit 135dB weith 2 10w4's with 100w each. That's by no means monstrous but it's enough to shake the entire car and make you go deaf if you listened to it at that volume.
02-13-2003, 04:55 PM
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My amp produces 2000 watts at 2 ohm. Never actually ran a single sub off of it at 2 ohms.
Well, you don't need a ton of power to get your car shakin'. Just quality equipment and a good install.
02-14-2003, 07:00 AM
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your custom box must not be worth crap...
i'm only running 150w to mine and it's quite adequate. of course it was an expensive tuned enclosure, can get quite a bit boomy, but with the port plug, it turns into a sealed enclosure and is SUPER tight. not as loud, but real tight. i almost forgot what a sealed enclosure sounded like (and that's all i ran the 8yrs previous to this).
of course i do other things with the enclosure vented such as dropping the armrest (ski pass removed). it helps quite a bit in terms of getting volume into the car, but if i am listening to music that i want to keep tight, i just push it back up. your enclosure is going to affect the sound more than any other variable.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/22769/img_0005.jpg">
of course i do other things with the enclosure vented such as dropping the armrest (ski pass removed). it helps quite a bit in terms of getting volume into the car, but if i am listening to music that i want to keep tight, i just push it back up. your enclosure is going to affect the sound more than any other variable.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/22769/img_0005.jpg">
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02-14-2003, 08:12 AM
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I ran a band-pass box for years... I'll only run sealed enclosures from here on out...
Although I had two JL 10w0's in a JL band pass box, with a 60 w Rockford amp, and it SLAMED!!!
02-14-2003, 11:08 AM
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exactly...
power ratio is a good reason to run ported enclosures, but the 12w3 is a little muddy to begin with. i mean it will slam hard, but the 10 is a little better *all-rounder*. 8s or w7s for serious tightness.
02-14-2003, 03:06 PM
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My box was sealed, custom built, but extremely basic
rectangular, 3/4" MDF, silicone sealed on the inside. 2 chambers, about 1.0cu feet per 10w4. No pollyfill.
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