Amp recommendations/prices for JL Audio 2-10s PowerWedge??
#1
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I have an older year PowerWedge but I think it has the same specs as the current '06 ones above, correct me if i am wrong.
My question is do I need an amp more than 300W to cover the sub wattage (300W)? Would the JL 300/2 or 500/1 monoblock amp or Rockford Fosgate Punch p3002 be sufficient? other brands woth looking into - Premier, Pheonix Gold?? I am looking for optimum performance amp under $300 if possible (ebay-new/used).
TIA for any info.
btw...best place for amp in A6 AllRoad?
-Avantt007<ul><li><a href="http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_enclosures.php?menu=9&prod_id=325">Po werWedge - CS210RG-W1v2-2 Specs</a></li></ul>
I have an older year PowerWedge but I think it has the same specs as the current '06 ones above, correct me if i am wrong.
My question is do I need an amp more than 300W to cover the sub wattage (300W)? Would the JL 300/2 or 500/1 monoblock amp or Rockford Fosgate Punch p3002 be sufficient? other brands woth looking into - Premier, Pheonix Gold?? I am looking for optimum performance amp under $300 if possible (ebay-new/used).
TIA for any info.
btw...best place for amp in A6 AllRoad?
-Avantt007<ul><li><a href="http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_enclosures.php?menu=9&prod_id=325">Po werWedge - CS210RG-W1v2-2 Specs</a></li></ul>
#4
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BTW, NO slash amps have ANY headroom. Not being pedantic, this is really accurate.
Headroom is the ability for the amp to surpass its continuous power for brief periods, and it is a characteristic of loosely-regulated power supply designs. The "slash" amps are a tightly regulated design, which by definition have zero headroom.
On top of that, the JL "slash" amps have no higher-current capabilities, they only have the smart power supplies that change rail voltage to provide rated power to the measured speaker impedance (really, DCR) on power up. So they are robust amps - but they are the least overbuilt amps in history, they must be HUGELY profitable for JL to make, and they underperform in SQ.
Think about it this way. You buy a nice 100W amp from Zapco, DLS, Arc, Genesis, Audison, etc. It will do 175-200 W into 2 ohms. That means the power supply, the extrusion fin area, the output transistors, even the power wire terminals, ALL have to be selected to support that 175-200W capability of the amp.
The JL "slash" amp that's 100W (there isn't one, this is an illustration) only has to be built to make 100W, regardless of the impedance. Since the power supply automatically readjusts to make 100W into 6, 4, 2, or 1.5 ohms, no heavier-duty parts are needed - ESPECIALLY not needed is a larger, heavier heat sink extrusion, which, once you add in shipping costs, is the most expensive portion of any car amp.
It probably does 110, over rated power, but that's a far cry from 200.
Evil genius. I'd buy stock if I could - but JLs are overpriced for their performance.
Headroom is the ability for the amp to surpass its continuous power for brief periods, and it is a characteristic of loosely-regulated power supply designs. The "slash" amps are a tightly regulated design, which by definition have zero headroom.
On top of that, the JL "slash" amps have no higher-current capabilities, they only have the smart power supplies that change rail voltage to provide rated power to the measured speaker impedance (really, DCR) on power up. So they are robust amps - but they are the least overbuilt amps in history, they must be HUGELY profitable for JL to make, and they underperform in SQ.
Think about it this way. You buy a nice 100W amp from Zapco, DLS, Arc, Genesis, Audison, etc. It will do 175-200 W into 2 ohms. That means the power supply, the extrusion fin area, the output transistors, even the power wire terminals, ALL have to be selected to support that 175-200W capability of the amp.
The JL "slash" amp that's 100W (there isn't one, this is an illustration) only has to be built to make 100W, regardless of the impedance. Since the power supply automatically readjusts to make 100W into 6, 4, 2, or 1.5 ohms, no heavier-duty parts are needed - ESPECIALLY not needed is a larger, heavier heat sink extrusion, which, once you add in shipping costs, is the most expensive portion of any car amp.
It probably does 110, over rated power, but that's a far cry from 200.
Evil genius. I'd buy stock if I could - but JLs are overpriced for their performance.
#5
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but the power it is rated for. Headroom as in pushing a driver with an amp that is able to put out substantially more power than the driver needs. Such as powering subs rated for 300w rms, with a 500w rms amp.
#6
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and I probably wouldn't buy a JL amp because of that fact. For the sub combo mentioned I would probably recommend a Zapco Reference 500.1 which would be around the same price range as the JL 500/1 while putting out similar power.
I wanted to run Zapco C2K amps until I ended up buying the amps I have now.
I wanted to run Zapco C2K amps until I ended up buying the amps I have now.
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#9
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Some good definitions on Google.
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/34579/109459.html
Don't mistake RMS power ratings of a speaker with what the speaker "needs". Common error today, no relevance at all between the two...
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/34579/109459.html
Don't mistake RMS power ratings of a speaker with what the speaker "needs". Common error today, no relevance at all between the two...
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