Is it any good to add an 100W X 2 amp to the Audi OEM Front Speakers?
11-15-2002, 07:38 AM
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1. RMS stands for root mean square. It's basically the average power that the amp can put out producing a sine wave signal (hardest signal to drive) all day long. It's a good measure of what the TRUE power of the amp is. Peak really doesn't tell you much.
2. Ohm is a measure of resistance of the speaker. Typically most car audio speakers (except subs) are 4 ohm resistance, home audio are typically 8 ohm. Really the only reason you need to know it is to make sure that your amp can drive the signal. Most car amps will drive at 2 ohms, but not 1 ohm. The less resistance the speaker presents to the amp, the more power the amp can drive it with (typically). A good amp will usually double down, meaning if it makes 300w RMS to 4 ohms, it'll make 600w RMS to 2 ohms. This is fairly rare however, most amps will only get you part of the way there (efficiency issues), so they might produce 450w RMS at 2 ohms instead of 600. There is more to know but it's fairly complex, and I'd write a novel trying to explain. Check out the link I've posted for a lot of good info.
3. This answer is conditional. If your amp is providing good clean power, then no, typically exceeding the speaker max capability will not damage it (as long as it's not grossly exceeded). Of note too: these amps are rated for sine wave reproduction, music signals are typically MUCH less demanding on the amp and it will not be producing nearly the same power. Where you run into trouble is when you have an amp that'll put out 50 w RMS and a speaker that wants to see about 100w. To get decent sound out of it, you'll likely turn the volume way up, maxing the amp out, which could make it "clip" the signal (shaving parts of the wave signal off) and this can EASILY damage your speaker because it cannot reproduce it.<ul><li><a href="http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm">A LOT of car audio info for the beginner</a></li></ul>
2. Ohm is a measure of resistance of the speaker. Typically most car audio speakers (except subs) are 4 ohm resistance, home audio are typically 8 ohm. Really the only reason you need to know it is to make sure that your amp can drive the signal. Most car amps will drive at 2 ohms, but not 1 ohm. The less resistance the speaker presents to the amp, the more power the amp can drive it with (typically). A good amp will usually double down, meaning if it makes 300w RMS to 4 ohms, it'll make 600w RMS to 2 ohms. This is fairly rare however, most amps will only get you part of the way there (efficiency issues), so they might produce 450w RMS at 2 ohms instead of 600. There is more to know but it's fairly complex, and I'd write a novel trying to explain. Check out the link I've posted for a lot of good info.
3. This answer is conditional. If your amp is providing good clean power, then no, typically exceeding the speaker max capability will not damage it (as long as it's not grossly exceeded). Of note too: these amps are rated for sine wave reproduction, music signals are typically MUCH less demanding on the amp and it will not be producing nearly the same power. Where you run into trouble is when you have an amp that'll put out 50 w RMS and a speaker that wants to see about 100w. To get decent sound out of it, you'll likely turn the volume way up, maxing the amp out, which could make it "clip" the signal (shaving parts of the wave signal off) and this can EASILY damage your speaker because it cannot reproduce it.<ul><li><a href="http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm">A LOT of car audio info for the beginner</a></li></ul>
11-15-2002, 08:48 AM
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Is Pioneer 2 ch Amp GMX952 a good amp? and will it not good to power 1 12" Type S?
Continuous Power (14.4V): 100Wx2 (4ohm), 150Wx2 (2ohm), 300Wx1 (4ohm) Max Power (14.4V): 200Wx2 (4ohm), 600Wx1 (4ohm) Frequency Response: 10Hz - 50kHz (0,-1dB) Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.008% (1kHz, 4ohm) Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100dB (IHF-A) Dimensions: 11" x 2-5/16" x 12-3/4"
Features: PWM MOSFET Power Supply Bridgeable 1/2/3 Channel Capability Balanced Isolator Input Circuit Gold-Plated Screw-Type Power/Ground Terminals Gold-Plated Screw-Type Speaker Terminals Gold-Plated RCA Inputs Hi-Volt Input Level Control (400mV-6.5V) Molex Type Speaker Level Inputs Selectable LPF: 80Hz (-12dB/oct.)
Features: PWM MOSFET Power Supply Bridgeable 1/2/3 Channel Capability Balanced Isolator Input Circuit Gold-Plated Screw-Type Power/Ground Terminals Gold-Plated Screw-Type Speaker Terminals Gold-Plated RCA Inputs Hi-Volt Input Level Control (400mV-6.5V) Molex Type Speaker Level Inputs Selectable LPF: 80Hz (-12dB/oct.)
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11-15-2002, 09:59 AM
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Re: Dude!! you'll blow them off...
have you look in the stock speakers? they look like cheap -really cheap-....25watts is too much for them.
might consider to replace the speaker first, then you fedd them by 100watts each
might consider to replace the speaker first, then you fedd them by 100watts each
11-15-2002, 10:10 AM
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you can...just remember.....
set the amp's "gain" to minimum when installing the amp in the system. once all is connected, while listening to your favourite song in volume you usually use, set the gain bit by bit till you had the desired sound output.
this will prevent you from blowing the speaker
this will prevent you from blowing the speaker