Car Audio Re-vamp 2006 A4 S-line w/ Symphony system. Where to start??
#1
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I purchased a 2006 A4 (B7) S-line this summer. It's my second A4 but I am extremely dissappointed with the stock stereo system in this one. I have a lot of experience in car audio but none with Audis. I want to keep my original head unit. Where do I begin on finding the wiring scheme, if and where there is a factory amp, as well as the proper removal techniques for accessing all the components and where I can obtain the proper harnesses. I am capable of designing a new system, I just need help finding info on the current system. (What size speakers, are the crossovers part of the head unit or an external amp, etc.) I am located just outside of Boston if there is anyone local who has a lot of knowledge on the subject that I could be refered to. Any information or direction would be appreciated.
#2
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If Bose, you have a factory amp running everything.
If non-Bose, you have deck power running the fronts and an amp that runs the rears and the sub.
All equalization is in the amp with the Bose systems, and is in the HU on the non-Bose systems, but per the wiring diagrams you can ground the Bose pin on the back of the HU and then the HU output is flat and non-equalized except for a hint of auto-loudness.
You can cut into the wires to get preamp outputs and connect RCA cables to the wires, you can get TeddyBGame here on the board to make an adapter harness with RCAs, or you can make one yourself.
The front door speakers are 6.5/165mm speakers. The Bose speakers have spacers that work wonderfully with stamped-frame drivers like Dynaudio System 240GTs, Hertz HSK165, and DLS UP6. The non-Bose speakers are integrated into the spacer and the best way to do the install in terms of time and function is to "hog" out the speaker from the spacer with some cutters and use the hollowed out spacer for your new speaker.
The tweeter in the door will take small 25mm tweeters, such as Hertz HT25. Larger tweeters - DLS UP1, Dynaudio MD110, require some mod to the tweeter housing and careful application of hot melt silicone adhesive.
Disconnect the center speaker entirely.
I personally would not use components in the R doors - I'd leave them unused or at best use a really good coaxial to keep the tweeter low.
The best coax there is is the Morel Integra Ovation at $400 the set. After that they fall off.
If non-Bose, you have deck power running the fronts and an amp that runs the rears and the sub.
All equalization is in the amp with the Bose systems, and is in the HU on the non-Bose systems, but per the wiring diagrams you can ground the Bose pin on the back of the HU and then the HU output is flat and non-equalized except for a hint of auto-loudness.
You can cut into the wires to get preamp outputs and connect RCA cables to the wires, you can get TeddyBGame here on the board to make an adapter harness with RCAs, or you can make one yourself.
The front door speakers are 6.5/165mm speakers. The Bose speakers have spacers that work wonderfully with stamped-frame drivers like Dynaudio System 240GTs, Hertz HSK165, and DLS UP6. The non-Bose speakers are integrated into the spacer and the best way to do the install in terms of time and function is to "hog" out the speaker from the spacer with some cutters and use the hollowed out spacer for your new speaker.
The tweeter in the door will take small 25mm tweeters, such as Hertz HT25. Larger tweeters - DLS UP1, Dynaudio MD110, require some mod to the tweeter housing and careful application of hot melt silicone adhesive.
Disconnect the center speaker entirely.
I personally would not use components in the R doors - I'd leave them unused or at best use a really good coaxial to keep the tweeter low.
The best coax there is is the Morel Integra Ovation at $400 the set. After that they fall off.
#4
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That was extremely helpful. It's a non-bose system. If I wire a line-output converter behind the HU, will the signal still be affected by the built in equalizer? That is a major concern of mine, becuase it seems at higher volume levels, the equalizer blocks alot of the frequencies making the sound very hollow. If this transcends over, it will negate this whole project.
You're saying I have a 6.5 components in the front, 6.5 coaxials in the rear doors, what is in my rear deck? And were is the rear-amp located?
You're saying I have a 6.5 components in the front, 6.5 coaxials in the rear doors, what is in my rear deck? And were is the rear-amp located?
#7
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Your deck has everything BUT the RCA connectors. If you use an LOC it will affect SQ negatively. Common grounded single ended RCA outs do not NEED an LOC.
Just do some research on the wiring, pull the HU and look at it, and I suspect your Bose pin on the HU is floating (I think it's pin 1 in the power connector).
I'd go to robertbentley.com and spend $25 or whatever on the one-day subscription to the 2006 A6 info and print all the wiring diagrams. My sources stop at 2005 for the moment.
If you examine the Bose and non-Bose diagrams of the wiring at the back of the HU, you'll see the Bose HU has TWO pins grounded and the non-Bose has one pin grounded. They are the same HU. The ground tells the radio to change EQ settings.
And why would you use R deck speakers? Trying to pimp this thing up? I thought I was over the top talking about the back door...
Just do some research on the wiring, pull the HU and look at it, and I suspect your Bose pin on the HU is floating (I think it's pin 1 in the power connector).
I'd go to robertbentley.com and spend $25 or whatever on the one-day subscription to the 2006 A6 info and print all the wiring diagrams. My sources stop at 2005 for the moment.
If you examine the Bose and non-Bose diagrams of the wiring at the back of the HU, you'll see the Bose HU has TWO pins grounded and the non-Bose has one pin grounded. They are the same HU. The ground tells the radio to change EQ settings.
And why would you use R deck speakers? Trying to pimp this thing up? I thought I was over the top talking about the back door...
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#8
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Thanks for the input on robertbentley.com. I'll look into it. I plan on replacing everything but the HU and probably using multiple amps while adding a sub. That's why I want to make sure I have all the information ahead of time.
#9
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I will take screen shots of the wiring diagram for you. I bought the ebahn factory cd and used it for my stereo upgrade.
BTW,
I kept the factory HU, used a Rockford 3Sixty.2 as crossovers, 30 band EQ's, time alignment, conversion to RCA's to go to amps.
So far I have 6.5" Comps in the front, amp stock in te rear doors, and a 10" sealed in the trunk.
BTW,
I kept the factory HU, used a Rockford 3Sixty.2 as crossovers, 30 band EQ's, time alignment, conversion to RCA's to go to amps.
So far I have 6.5" Comps in the front, amp stock in te rear doors, and a 10" sealed in the trunk.
#10
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Also, what did you go with for front components and what did you have to do to mount the speakers and tweeters in the front doors.
What are all of and cost of all your components?
What are all of and cost of all your components?