When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I did some research and could not find any connectors on Ali Express that would mate with the factory wiring harnesses for the front or rear door woofer connectors. The part numbers for the wiring harness connectors that mate with the front door woofers is 4E0 971 942. The wiring harness connector for the rear door woofer is 4B0 971 942.
I know people don't like disturbing the factory wiring harness by cutting off the connectors, but here is what I would suggest in this case. Cut off the connector leaving at least a 3-4" pigtail connected to the harness connector. It can be a bit shorter if need be. You only need enough wire to allow you to strip the ends and crimp terminals to the end of each wire. Crimp a pair of male/female spade lugs or bullet connectors to the factory harness wires and crimp a matching pair on the pigtail attached to the OEM connector. Keep the OEM connector and pigtail in a safe place for reinstallation if you ever want to restore the system to the factory condition. Get a short pair of speaker wires about 6 inches or so and crimp a matching set of spade lugs or bullet connectors to one end of the wires. Either strip off the other end of the speaker wires and solder them to the new speaker lugs or crimp on the appropriate spade lugs that mate with the speaker terminals and attach them to the new speakers. Connect the speaker wire to the spade lugs or bullet connectors to install the new speaker. This way you can restore the original speakers by swapping out the short speaker wire with the OEM connector and pigtail you removed from the car.
That is exactly what I said earlier. There is no OEM connector for the front and rear door speakers in many Audis.
However there are atleast 3 options.
1. Use have a Metra plug.
2. Use the double hump plug and slice off the centre ridge.
3. Or buy the specially fabricated plugs from the UK supplier
See attached, how I supply the door speaker mounts and the door speaker cables.
It's got the correct connectors on both ends of the cable. One side mates with the factory harness and the other side has the female spades for the after market speakers.
can you please email me at dmillar19@gmail.com or text to 2486603185. have some questions and am interested in purchasing a front speaker set up dash nd doors! haven't been able to find a spot to purchase
I will need your complete shipping address so I can provide a shipping quote. I have the kits in stock. Please note that I can only accept Skrill or Venmo as payment options, although I can also use Western Union in a pinch. Send my your info in an email to dave_norris01@hotmail.com and I'll get you the quote.
Sorry. They're for the B8/B8.5 models only. The speakers used in a B9 are different sizes. Check with bruce_miranda in one of the above posts. I believe he sells upgrade kits for the B9 models.
I recently had to make up a new batch of speaker brackets for the B8/B8.5 dash speaker upgrade kits so I thought I'd take some pics to show my process.
The first thing I do is to cover some 12" x 24" sheets of 1/8" thick ABS plastic with wide masking tape to provide something I can mark on.
The next phase is to use the two templates I have to mark the outlines of the brackets used for both the outer and center dash speakers. I use a circle template to mark the center of the hole for the speaker. I then drill a small pilot hole in the center to make it easier to center the hole saw in my drill press.
Once I have all of the sheets marked I use a scroll saw to cut them into smaller pieces that will allow me to handle them on my drill press.
Using the pilot holes drilled in the ABS plastic sheets, I use a hole saw mounted in my drill press to cut out a hole slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the speaker.
Once I have cut out the center holes in all of the templates, I use the scroll saw to cut each one of the brackets out of the ABS sheet.
Here are the rough cut brackets.
The next step is to peel off all of the masking tape from the rough cut brackets.
Once the masking tape has been removed, I attach some double-sided template tape to the templates made from 1/2-inch MDF.
The rough cut brackets are centered on the template so that a small amount of ABS material protrudes from all sides of the inner and outer portions of the template. Pressure is then applied to secure the bracket to the template using the template tape.
The brackets are then trimmed using a router fitted with a spiral flush-cutting bit. There is a ball bearing roller at the end of the bit that rides on the outside of the template and the bit cuts away the excess ABS material so that the end result is an exact copy of the template cut out of ABS plastic.
The finished bracket is separated from the template and the template tape is removed. The photo below shows the two rough cut brackets at the top, the finished brackets at the outer left and right center, and the two templates at the bottom.
Using the actual OEM speakers, the two mounting holes from the speakers are marked on the brackets using an elongated marker. Small pilot holes are then drilled on each of the mounting tabs. A larger hole is drilled using the pilot holes to locate the drill bit. Note that the pilot holes for the center speaker brackets are only drilled in the top bracket and the larger holes are not drilled until the two brackets are attached to the speaker to ensure proper alignment.
The holes that are used to secure the brackets to the speakers are drilled using the actual speaker during assembly to ensure everything lines up correctly.
Once the speakers are mounted to the brackets, the appropriate wiring harnesses are soldered to the speaker terminals.
The plastic covers that came with the speakers are attached to the speaker using some narrow masking tape to hold them in place as protection during shipping. The covers normally snap onto the edge of the speakers, but the brackets now prevent them from fitting over the edge and staying put, hence the need for the masking tape.
Last edited by captain_video; 06-01-2021 at 04:04 AM.
02-18-2021, 02:18 PM
