JMS-Four

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/99272/speaker_diagram.jpg"></center><p>I understand I need to seal the deck.

Here are my thoughts to accomplish this:

1. Cut pieces of dyna mat, neoprene, or other workable medium and cover the small holes that are prevalent in the metal. Use same material to seal around edges, if needed.

or

2. Cut an entire piece the correct size and form of the rear deck.

My thought was to rig some small mounts an inch or 2 below the deck using a bit of wood and some brackets so that the woofers fire up through the existing speaker holes, and glue/apply the "sealing medium" to the backs of all that.

Before mounting, the speakers would be mounted in the mounts, then the mounts would be attached, then the bottom of all that would be sealed with ? creating the needed barrier.

Here is a schematic.

Will this work?

HIS4

If you're going to hang your baffle a few inches below the actual metal deck, you'll have to find a way to seal that baffle. The air in front of the speaker cone cannot be allowed to combine with the air at the back of the speaker. How you are going to seal that gap of a few inches is the challenge. Instead of hanging it a few inches below, maybe you can just bolt the wood baffle to the bottom of the metal deck and then mount the speaker to the underside of that. Then you won't have to worry about sealing up a gap of a few inches. You'll just have to make sure there is a tight seal between the baffle and the rear deck.

JMS-Four

would still need to be sealed though, would it not so the air in front does not touch the air in back?

My diagram tries to show the dynamat material acting as the barrier between the front and the back of the woofer, but covering the entire rear deck.

Thanks

HIS4

The baffle you're installing will be the barrier between the front and back wave of the woofer. That's why I said that needs to be sealed tight to make sure there are no air leaks on that baffle. The holes in the OEM rear deck will need to stay open for the front wave to enter the cabin. Otherwise you'll have this sound wave trapped between the new baffle and the OEM rear deck.

Slave IV

<a href="http://www.sound-in-motion.com/installs/consubs.html">See examples here</a>
I found other reference pics before at other sites that show some of of the process but don't have time to search right now. I would dynamat the whole rear deck except the speaker holes where the subs will fire through. Get some microcell foam and put that inbetween your baffel and the bottom of the rear deck. Silicon or something similar around the edges should provide a good seal. You should be able to mount your subs from below as HIS4 said, or from the top if you want (have fun removing them if they blow). Good luck and post pics when you do it!

JMS-Four

Ok, so it might be possible. Thanks. What kind of woofer for this sort of app.?

JMS-Four

in the trunk.

On the left side is a tool box, navigation, and CD changer, so those aren't going anywhere.

The right side is will not fit a 10" sub.

HIS4

Best thing would be to ask the manufacturer if the woofer is suitable for IB applications. One in particular that I can think of is the Image Dynamics IDQ woofers. They are very popular for IB application but are not specifically rated for it. How big/how many woofers are you planning to use.

JMS-Four

for massive woofers. Maybe 2 10s or maybe 2 8s.

Slave IV

be able to mount your amps to the rear deck (under) as well so you keep all your side pocket space.