quickaudi:STFA

When we start up the car, PHONE is displayed on the system. I can hit a few buttons, and then it goes back to the radio. (I can hear the tones through the Bose speaker.) It comes and goes on when it wants to work. All connections are good.
I wonder, though, if we shouldn't have cut the wires from the back of the stereo instead of using the splice connectors. Is this giving the headunit an unwanted signal and causing it to go haywire?
Also, if I unplug the handsfree unit, place a call, and then plug it back in while talking, the system will go to PHONE and I can talk to whomever for a second before it switches over.
Any help would be appreciated.

quickaudi:STFA

Still does the work for a second, then quit working thing. I'm thinking it might be a bad board, but I'd hope otherwise.

quickaudi:STFA

It's like it can't interpret the mute signal coming from the handsfree kit. The phone will work through the headunit for one beep, really. I can get two really quickly, if I try, but if I make it beep once, it'll then go to the radio, no matter how many more times I hit it. If I wait about 10 seconds, PHONE will come back on the display and I can hit another button. Same effect afterwards.
It's almost like it's sending a voltage that the Headunit can't understand or is overloading it. Any thoughts?

TeddyBGame

1) how is everthing wired up to the radio?


2) where are you getting ignition power or constant battery power?


3) Did you wire this up via the DBsub connector in the trunk....or direct to the head unit?


Please give me some more details.

Thanks!
-ted

quickaudi:STFA

Used bostondriver's writeup. Messed up the microphone that came with it, so we cut wires and spliced the Audi microphone onto the wires for my unit. Note: the microphone works all the time, esp. when making a call. You can hear me talking all day long on the other end, but I can't hear them.
Took my handsfree unit's speaker wires and spliced them into the wires going into the Phone + and - part of the block. We actually cut the mute wire and spliced mine in, so the speaker wires are still getting signal from wherever they were getting signal from before. Should I cut those too? I don't see it making a difference, but I've noticed that everyone here has just made a new block.
Ignition power is from one of the "30" blocks underneath the steering wheel. Switched was one of the "X75" ones, and the ground was a body ground on the left footwell.
As you can see, it's all direct to the headunit.
It's almost like a capacitor is blowing it's charge, then gets it built back up or something after I quit pushing the buttons. Weird.

TeddyBGame

or just buy a new block (as most of us have done)...so you can retain the factory wiring (the preferred method).

See if that makes any difference.

What kind of HF kit do you have? Please give more details (make, model#). Thanks!

quickaudi:STFA

speaker from the kit and seeing if it works. If not, then we've got a huge problem.
wiring in a new block is next, though cutting wires is first. Oughta be fun.
The kit is for my LG VX6000 (non-bluetooth), made my Peiker Acustic (kit # SGHN004101).
If it matters, it's going in my 2001.5 S4. Bose equipped.

uber_ar

You should be able to manually touch the "mute" wire to metal in the car... try this from the headunit take the mute wire and touch it to to metal and the phone indicator should come on and stay as long as you touch the wire to metal... if it doesn;t then you have a headunit side issue. IF it stays test the car kit manually holding the mute wire to ground... if the call works right then its the car kit not maintaining a constant ground to the mute.