How many Sq. Ft. of Dynamat Xtreme Needed For B6? (Areas I want to cover inside)
#1
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The goal is to eliminate as much as possible road noise from getting in the cabin of my B6 (3.0).
So I am wondering for those who've applied Dynmat how many square feet I would need for the following areas...
-all 4 doors
-roof
-entire floor of cabin/tunnel/firewall
-rear trunk and trunk lid (are these needed to reduce noise even for a stock stereo?)
-underside of hood (possible, but doubtful)
Any information is appreciated.
Thanks.
So I am wondering for those who've applied Dynmat how many square feet I would need for the following areas...
-all 4 doors
-roof
-entire floor of cabin/tunnel/firewall
-rear trunk and trunk lid (are these needed to reduce noise even for a stock stereo?)
-underside of hood (possible, but doubtful)
Any information is appreciated.
Thanks.
#2
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...as has been referenced on this forum, take a look at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com for some comparisons.
Basically - dynamat is a ripoff...you can get 80 sq.ft. of damplifierPro for the price of 36 sq.ft. of dynamat extreme, and the product has been tested to be better.
Their forums are also very informative and give you the low down on how to combine damplifier with overkill (closed cell foam) and other products to get the best results. They'll also be able to give you fairly accurate numbers in terms of what you need.
Sorry this isn't a direct answer to your question, but I think this will be a much better solution for you.
Basically - dynamat is a ripoff...you can get 80 sq.ft. of damplifierPro for the price of 36 sq.ft. of dynamat extreme, and the product has been tested to be better.
Their forums are also very informative and give you the low down on how to combine damplifier with overkill (closed cell foam) and other products to get the best results. They'll also be able to give you fairly accurate numbers in terms of what you need.
Sorry this isn't a direct answer to your question, but I think this will be a much better solution for you.
#3
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If you must do the hood, Cascade has some underhood-rated material. Any butyl material will just melt.
I would also NOT do the roof. I wouldn't do the roof at all personally, but I would rather use a heat gun and Cascade VB2 vinyl. Not as much damping as the butyl metal sheets, more prep, but IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN. I would never put anything else on a roof.
Just measure the approx area of your surfaces - not rocket science. One caveat:
Measure approx SF of one door. Double it to get inner and outer door skins. Triple it if you want to do both sides of the removable inner metal panel AND the outer door skin.
You know you're adding LOTS of weight to your car, right? A car that's already fairly quiet as cars in its class go?
I would also NOT do the roof. I wouldn't do the roof at all personally, but I would rather use a heat gun and Cascade VB2 vinyl. Not as much damping as the butyl metal sheets, more prep, but IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN. I would never put anything else on a roof.
Just measure the approx area of your surfaces - not rocket science. One caveat:
Measure approx SF of one door. Double it to get inner and outer door skins. Triple it if you want to do both sides of the removable inner metal panel AND the outer door skin.
You know you're adding LOTS of weight to your car, right? A car that's already fairly quiet as cars in its class go?
#4
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...but the seattle roads / highways are killing me. noisier than hell. adding 50-100 lbs. is worth it to me, as i'm not looking for that extra .1 of a second, and being Stage 3 already has me happy enough.
i've heard great things about Cascade, note that the others (including secondskin) also have specialized under the hood products.
And...Hi Ken, been a while. sent you mail a little while ago.
i've heard great things about Cascade, note that the others (including secondskin) also have specialized under the hood products.
And...Hi Ken, been a while. sent you mail a little while ago.
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#9
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The aluminum layer on it is much more flexible so you don't cut your fingers on it. The aluminum layer on the Dynamat is pretty stiff and can cut up your hands if you're not careful.
Raammat is also much easier to apply. No heat required. Just roll it on and you're good. Of course, you can use heat for maximum adhesion but it's not required. Also, Raamaudio sells a product called Ensolite which is a closed cell foam made to be applied over the butyl mat. That helps to further dampen the area. I used both on my doors, trunk lid, and rear deck.
Raammat is also much easier to apply. No heat required. Just roll it on and you're good. Of course, you can use heat for maximum adhesion but it's not required. Also, Raamaudio sells a product called Ensolite which is a closed cell foam made to be applied over the butyl mat. That helps to further dampen the area. I used both on my doors, trunk lid, and rear deck.
#10
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STATS:
Damplifier thickness: .065in
Dynamat Xtreme: .067in
Damplifier Pro: .08in.
You can buy, w/o discount, 40sq ft of Damplifier for $96, direct from manufacturer
Vs. 36 sq ft. of Dynamat Xtreme for $84-ebay.
vs Damplifier Pro
Soooooo.
Damplifier=2.4/sq ft
Dynamat Xtreme=2.3 sq ft.
Damplifier is a waaaay better deal.
Plus they offer the under hood products you are looking for.
If you want to order some products, call up ANT, the owner, and he can cut you a deal. Great company.
Damplifier thickness: .065in
Dynamat Xtreme: .067in
Damplifier Pro: .08in.
You can buy, w/o discount, 40sq ft of Damplifier for $96, direct from manufacturer
Vs. 36 sq ft. of Dynamat Xtreme for $84-ebay.
vs Damplifier Pro
Soooooo.
Damplifier=2.4/sq ft
Dynamat Xtreme=2.3 sq ft.
Damplifier is a waaaay better deal.
Plus they offer the under hood products you are looking for.
If you want to order some products, call up ANT, the owner, and he can cut you a deal. Great company.