nitroxextreme

I am going to be building a "stealth" fiberglass enclosure in the trunk corner.(for DLS MW110) I have an A6 sedan....so im planning on taking off the whole plastic side piece in the trunk. (dont have CD-changer so im gonna put it there). Then im gonna make the enclosure and put it back on. I have seen a few people do it this way...but no real description on it(im at a lose as how to protect it....thinking a cover made to imitate one of the "cubby doors" but with grille cloth.)

I have been reading up on how to fiberglass and all of the perticulars for volume of a sealed enclosure. I have seen sizes ranging from .46 to .80 cuft. However, I am not sure what would be ideal for me.

I have also read alittle bout polyfil, but I have understood it as just making the box seem bigger. Not really that important for a small enclosure that you want to be small.

HIS4

The enclosure shoud use a 3" diameter port 8.8 inches long. I don't know of anyone who has fit a 1 cu ft enclosure behind the stock panel. I have a 1.75 cu ft ported enclosure but it does not sit behind the stock panel it replaces it.

Polyfill is not only used to make the enclosure seem bigger but it also dampens resonances in the enclosure.

nitroxextreme

I have herd that sealed also works very well and they are easier to acomplish for DIY.

Really just wondering as to the reasoning behind the different sizes that I have seen?

HIS4

To get it to work well in a sealed box, the sealed box will need to be larger than normal and you're going to need a lot of power. The reason is because most subs built for sealed enclosures have stiff suspensions to maintain control of the sub at the resonant frequency. Because of the stiffer than normal suspension, you need to hit it with more power to move the cone. The ported enclosure compensates for this with the output of the port. Even with both of these compensations, it still not going to work as well as you'd want.

Do you already have this sub? I would suggest going with something suited for small sealed enclosures if that's what you want to build.

HIS4

It only requires a 0.5 cu ft sealed enclosure.

avincar

...I have spoken with many US installers of DLS and we all use the MW110 in a sealed inclosure of 0.7 to 1.0 cf. I know the website says that. If you read the website DLS specs recommend vented enclsoures for a lot of their woofers. They are a bit in love with the vent, but there drivers are not severely vent-optimized. I've heard this and it works.

If you run the MW110 in BassBox and ask for a recommendation, it comes out roughly in the middle of the range between "vented optimized" and "sealed optimized" with a hint towards vented.

But the vented enclsoures are larger and the ramaifications of getting them wrong are far worse (as I'm sure HIS4 knows). So I regularly use the MW110 in a small sealed box and it sounds great. Have one in my wife's car, have installed dozens that way, works very well. For a rap-only setup I would probably not have used that woofer, but for a variety of music, that woofer has an excellent sense of "speed" on acoustic bass notes that is rare. Doesn't sound "thuddy".

nitroextreme does get to return that woofer if it doesn't sound good.

HIS4

I don't doubt that it could be used in a sealed enclosure, but I suspect that it was built for vented and if used in a vented enclosure, it would perform better than in a small sealed enclosure. When I plugged the TS parameters into a box program, it came out with a relatively small box for critically damped sealed box but the F3 of that box was very high (77 Hz).

HIS4

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avincar

...and it sounds good in a .65 cf box. Empirical results always trump mathmatical modeling.

My SW has a slightly lower FS, but bottom line, it sounds good. There are several mentions online of installs using this woofer in a similar enclosure on G35driver.com, acurazine.com, and x5world.com. (and not from me : )