JL 300/4 Blew my speakerss! more,,,,
#1
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This was my first system install (self). I am running a JL.500/1 powering (2) JL10W3's (250 rms watts each)
I blew out the subwoofers! How could this happen if i have a 500 watt amp powering 500 watts worth of subs. If I am not over powering them, how did they blow?
I am also running a Jl 300/4 with polk speakers which are 60 watts RMS.
I blew these also. Where can I find speakers that can handle 75 watts RMS. The only ones I have seen are 60 watt RMS.
Please help me out if you can.
I blew out the subwoofers! How could this happen if i have a 500 watt amp powering 500 watts worth of subs. If I am not over powering them, how did they blow?
I am also running a Jl 300/4 with polk speakers which are 60 watts RMS.
I blew these also. Where can I find speakers that can handle 75 watts RMS. The only ones I have seen are 60 watt RMS.
Please help me out if you can.
#3
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Why did they blow? COuple be a few things:
Your driving a dirty/distorted signal from the HU to the amps. If your on stock HU, and your cranking it all the way up, and amp gains are high, it's very likely. Even possible with an aftermarket HU.
You could have a grounding issue which is shorting the system. Unlikely, but you never know.
Your simply wired the subs/speakers wrong.
Those speakers should not blow on that power is wired properly and not over driven.
Your driving a dirty/distorted signal from the HU to the amps. If your on stock HU, and your cranking it all the way up, and amp gains are high, it's very likely. Even possible with an aftermarket HU.
You could have a grounding issue which is shorting the system. Unlikely, but you never know.
Your simply wired the subs/speakers wrong.
Those speakers should not blow on that power is wired properly and not over driven.
#5
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this little thing called distortion will easily destroy your speakers, i don't care how much power you are running or the specs. i have ran twice or more power to speakers with no problems. i've seized one sub and knew exactly why, but it was 2yrs of overpowered fun. their is nothing wrong with the speakers or the amps, just the settings you are running.
#6
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I had the box custom built for the subs. I know the box size is fine. They blew after about a month of use.
I started with a low gain during setup and eventully had it were i wanted it.
I am running a aftermarket HU.
The subs were installed in the box by pros.
It very well might be a ground problem. Would that blow the subs???
I never had the gains for the speakers up high. Why would they blow?
Can I find 75watt RMS speakers?
thanx in advance
I started with a low gain during setup and eventully had it were i wanted it.
I am running a aftermarket HU.
The subs were installed in the box by pros.
It very well might be a ground problem. Would that blow the subs???
I never had the gains for the speakers up high. Why would they blow?
Can I find 75watt RMS speakers?
thanx in advance
#7
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What load was the 500W rated at? What was the speaker load?
How high a quality amp did you have?
One important thing, if you had a ground problem, I've heard that the amp can try to ground through the speakers, which means DC loading and then BOOM.
How high a quality amp did you have?
One important thing, if you had a ground problem, I've heard that the amp can try to ground through the speakers, which means DC loading and then BOOM.
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#8
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There was no distortion. I had a great amp. The JL500/1 and the JL300/4.
The amp was rated 1.5 through 6 ohms. Its a class D amp. IT gives 500watts 1.5 ohm to 6 ohms.
The subs were 250 watts at 4 ohms.
The amp was rated 1.5 through 6 ohms. Its a class D amp. IT gives 500watts 1.5 ohm to 6 ohms.
The subs were 250 watts at 4 ohms.
#9
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THan you have been listening to horrendously dirty/scratched CDs which is being reproduced as pops/clicks/distortion, or your just overdriving your HU, or something is grounded completely wrong.
#10
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On my gound, I used a dremel tool with a grinder to make a bare patch of metal, and ran the grond to it, bolted using a nut and bold (NOT a sheetmetal screw, they can come loose over time)
to quote rec.audio.car FAQ:
No. In almost every case, the best thing to do is to ground your amplifier to a point that is attached to the chassis of the car and is as close to the amplifier as possible. The ground wire should not need to be more than about eighteen inches long, and should be at least as large as the power wire. The point to which you make your ground connection should be an unpainted piece of bare metal.
Some cars (Audi, Porsche) have galvanized bodies, and in these cars, you must find one of the manufacturers' grounding points or else some noise can result.
In
to quote rec.audio.car FAQ:
No. In almost every case, the best thing to do is to ground your amplifier to a point that is attached to the chassis of the car and is as close to the amplifier as possible. The ground wire should not need to be more than about eighteen inches long, and should be at least as large as the power wire. The point to which you make your ground connection should be an unpainted piece of bare metal.
Some cars (Audi, Porsche) have galvanized bodies, and in these cars, you must find one of the manufacturers' grounding points or else some noise can result.
In