MacSub

Same connector, all the connections are on it, you can't disconnect one without the other

diagnosticator1

The wiring diagrams show dedicated circuits for each speaker. Disconnecting one from the amp cannot disconnect the others, as they are on different circuits.

MacSub

I said if you disconnect the sub connector, it also has the feeds for the rears on it, which is why I recommended disconnecting the sub speaker not the whole loom.

diagnosticator1

I only advised to disconnect the sub speaker itself. If that was not clear, then it should be now. BTW, I have no problems "properly" reading what is written. Apparently, we where using different terminology for the same concepts.

AudiA3FSI

does any have any of the wiring diagrams, for the A3 2006 concert non BOSE setup, i would like from the HU, to all speakers and amp setup for the rear. I Would gladly appreciate it.

AudiA3FSI

So pretty much, if i disconnect the rear sub connector and i tap into that connector for my connection to an amp the rear speakers wont work, is that what you mean???????

MacSub

Yes

AudiA3FSI

So what do i need to do to hook up my amp and sub and disconnecting that piece of **** rear OEM sub without cutting out my rear speakers?

MacSub

To disconnect the sub and keep the rears working you'll need to get inside the sub enclosure and disconnect the speaker, remembering to tape up the connections so they don't short on anything.

Or use a 4ch amp and use 2 channels for the rears and the other 2 bridged for the sub, or just install a second smaller amp just for the rears.

strcruizer

Hey AudiA3FSI, I think you are exactly at the same spot in the stereo install as me. I think what you are trying to do is very similar to me.

THE FACTORY SUB:
MacSub is right in that you need to unscrew the factor sub speaker out of the factor sub enclosure and then cut the wires to disconnect the sub. You will need to leave the sub enclosure plug connected if you want your rear speakers to work because the factory sub enclosure has a factory amplifier built into it. This is why the wires on the deck going to both rear speakers are line level outs since its going to the factory amp in the sub enclosure.

I beleive this is the wiring diagram:
DeckLineLevelRearOut====>FactorySub/Amp====>RearSpeakers

If you disconnect the factor sub, you lose the amp and the connection between the deck and the rear speakers get severed. So this then leads to the question how do I get the rears to work, and how do I add an aftermarket amp for my new 10" sub.

Well before I continue let me tell you what Im trying to accomplish in my stereo project. As much as possible I want to keep things looking stock. I want to:
1)Use the stock concert deck,
2)Upgrade my front door speakers(Done-6.5 Focal Seperates)
3)Remove the Factory Sub while keeping the rear door speakers functional.
4)Add a 4 channel Amp to power a new 10" Sub and the 2 front seperates. I plan to put the amp in a try that I contruct in the spare tire well.
5)Rear Speakers to use Deck Power/Factory Amp.

MY PLAN:
STEALTH BOX:
What I did last night was remove the factory sub because its crap and I was looking to build a fiberglass stealth box in place of it. First of all the space behind the factor sub enclosure is very small. There is a sheet metal interior wall right behind the factory sub. Behind this sheet metal wall is alot more potential airspace. Im going to cut most of this wall out so I can get more air space in the back.

AFTERMARKET AMP:
Im looking at an Alpine PDX 4.150 amp to power a single JLAudio 10w3v3 sub and also power my recently upgraded FOCAL seperates in the front doors.


Now this takes me to my options with the wiring:

Option 1) Use a line out converter to tap the Front Speaker outputs at the deck and run RCA's to my Amp. For the factory rear speakers, I would rip apart the factory sub enclosure to get to factory amp so I can reuse it for the rears.

Opt1 Thoughts: Im not to sure how that factory amp looks like, but im sure its going to be ugly when I rip apart the factor sub enclosure. Im thinking that with a line out converter, you start to introduce more noise to the signal to the amp.

Option 2) Tap the connector that goes into the factor sub since the signal is lowlevel lineouts and use it for the aftermarket amp to power the fronts and sub. Cut the Front Speaker wires behind the deck and re-route them to power the rear speakers.

Opt2 Thoughts: This option would be messed up in the fact that the fader on the deck control will be reveresed, being the fronts are now connected to the rear, and vice versa however you dont need to use the factory amp in the sub enclosure, not to mention the after market amp would get a cleaner signal from the low level rear outputs. Basically my thoughts are you don't really want to fade between bass and fronts, rather fronts to rears however the sub will be now wired in conjunction with the fronts. Bass on the other hand is rather non directional in nature even if the sub is at the rear of the car. The fader would be between deck power rear and amplified sub and fronts.

CONCLUSION:
In any of these cases their will be compromises.

~strcruizer