Formycar

Hello members

Who can help me with a diagram of a Bose amp that is used in an Audi A1 2013? I doubt too much about existing diagrams. Who can help? I am looking for a diagram of 3 connectors on the amp.

thanks in advance!

SMac770

For the Mk1 A1 (type 8X), with the Bose sound sound (PR 9VK), the wiring diagrams document only shows there being a 2-port optical and a 38-pin electrical. Not a third connector on it. The amp should be 8X0035223D. And while the pics of it show a third port in the center, the wiring diagrams document does not show it as used, "port A2 - vacant" In regards to the 38-pin, the wiring seems to depend if this is a 2-door or 4-door, and whether it's LHD or RHD.

Formycar

Hello!

Thanks for the answer, maybe it would be useful to explain that I am new to this world. I know a bit about electronics, but not too much. Do I now have to look at a schematic and which one for the right amplifier? Perhaps you can post a link so that I have the correct one? And you mentioned something about 2 or 4 doors to get it connected properly ?

The left port / 2 connecter i under stand but de second in the middel I dont understand. The biggest one on the right will be for the speakers I guess.

please respons

Best regard

Formycar

[QUOTE=Formycar;25897263]Hello!

Thanks for the answer, maybe it would be useful to explain that I am new to this world. I know a bit about electronics, but not too much. Do I now have to look at a schematic and which one for the right amplifier? Perhaps you can post a link so that I have the correct one? And you mentioned something about 2 or 4 doors to get it connected properly ?

The left port / 2 connecter i under stand but de second in the middel I dont understand. The biggest one on the right will be for the speakers I guess.



So i only have to deal with the middel and right, am I seeing that correctly?

look forward to receiving a response

SMac770

I mentioned the middle port is not used. If there's pins there, ok, but that port is not used in an A1 configuration. All the wiring goes to the 38-pin plug, speakers and power/ground. But which speakers are on which pins depends on if the vehicle is a 2-door A1 or a 4-door A1. Do you have the A1? Or are you just playing with a standalone amp from unknown source? What's the project purpose? The wiring diagrams are on erwin (erwin.audi.com, pay for a day, get all the PDFs for your VIN) along with the workshop manuals and other documents. You can also find them on cardiagn, but you can only view them through the browser window. https://cardiagn.com/audi-a1-8x-ewd-from-april-2010/ then "chapter" 31 in the document.

Formycar

Thanks for your comment You ask me what car I have and what I want to do with the amplifier. I can now conclude that I got myself into trouble. Unfortunately, I have already purchased the Bose speaker system, which I can no longer return. The source still remains the original radio, but there is an Android multimedia system linked to it, but that does not matter because the Quadlock keeps everything running continuously. The wiring harness has been adjusted, but I don't trust it, hence all the questions... Is this possible in a stand-alone way? So that the speaker out goes to the amplifier and from there back to the speakers? I prefer to connect it as originally as possible. I have an Audi A1 5 door and want to add DSP at a later time if I can even get this sorted out.

I'll take a look at your link tomorrow because my choice really gives me a headache 😅

Formycar

The problem is that the radio only has 4 channels and I want to be able to control the subwoofer separately and perhaps also connect the center speaker, so that means I have little choice.

SMac770

Probably need to back up and assess what you have, what you want, and a viable action plan to get there. So I take it then your MY13 A1 (type 8X) did not come with the Bose sound system (PR 9VK)? Then what sound system did it come with?
8RE - basic > front left/right of woofer+tweeter
8RX - basic plus > front and rear left/right of woofer+tweeter
9VD - standard > front and rear left/right of woofer+tweeter, front center, rear subwoofer
9VK - Bose > lots of speakers, going to say Bose all over the place probably
Find your vehicle identification sticker and see which sound system code is present. It's normally in one of the manuals, and also one the sheet metal in the spare tire well.

That's the back end system, the sound system.

Then there's the front end system, the infotainment system. Appears the 8X used one of five front end units:
entry level Chorus radio, with an LCD integrated into the radio unit - this comes only in CAN, and I think is used only with 8RE
mid range Concert radio, based on RMC, with an external display unit on the dash, single SD slot - this came in CAN or MOST (optical) > CAN unless you had DAB tuner or the 9VD or 9VK sound systems, then it came as MOST; the R199 external audio interface is only on the MOST version
nav capable Concert radio, based on RMC, same as the unit above except it had two SD slots, MOST only
mmi navigation plus, based on MMI 3G+, looks the same as RMC except has chrome trim around the front panel buttons instead of black trim, MOST only
The MOST units at address 5F are referred to as "J794".

The most intelligent approach to determining what you have would be to scan the vehicle with VCDS and post the complete autoscan log. If you have only a 56-radio, that's going to be a CAN based Chorus or Concert unit. If you have a 5F-information electronics, that's going to be a MOST based Concert or MMI unit. If you have a 56 and a 5F, then you're going to have the MOST unit, and also a DAB radio tuner (which is what's at 56). Or if you have the radio removal keys, just pull the unit and look at the back.

The Android tablet or Carplay hideaway box solutions often have a quad-block go-between that goes between the dash unit quad-block socket and the vehicle harness quad-block plug. There shouldn't need to be "adjustment" to any of the factory wiring other than inserting the go-between, I would expect.

It's *really* hard to random guess this kind of stuff. Much better to baseline a thoroughly accurate description of the components in place to understand what's actually what and what the options actually are.

VCDS scan examples:

CAN Concert:
Address 56: Radio (R) Labels: None
Part No SW: 8X0 035 180 D HW: 8X0 035 180 D
Component: RMC H51 0717

MOST Concert:
Address 5F: Information Electr. (J794) Labels: None
Part No SW: 8XA 035 183 C HW: 8XA 035 183 A
Component: RMC Cnct H62 0170

MOST Concert with NAV:
Address 5F: Information Electr. (J794) Labels: None
Part No SW: 8X0 035 193 HW: 8X0 035 192 A
Component: RMC Cnct Nav H45 0530

MMI Nav+ (MMI 3G):
Address 5F: Information Electr. (J794) Labels: None
Part No SW: 8X0 035 670 D HW: 8X0 035 670 E
Component: H-BNT-EU H54 0636

MMI 3G radio unit:
Address 56: Radio (R) Labels:. 4F0-035-0xx-56.clb
Part No SW: 4G0 035 061 J HW: 4G0 035 061
Component: Radio U DAB H60 0123

BOSE amp (older):
Address 47: Sound System (J525) Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No SW: 8X0 035 223 B HW: 8X0 035 223 B
Component: BOSE G3 A1Q3 H04 0040

BOSE amp (newer):
Address 47: Sound System (J525) Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No SW: 8X0 035 223 C HW: 8X0 035 223 B
Component: BOSE G3 A1Q3 H04 0130

So a lot can be told from the VCDS scan about what's in the vehicle electrically. And that has to be known to know what your viable paths are to something different.

Formycar

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. I'm going to sit down quietly because I'm feeling a bit depressed. Maybe once I've read it, it won't be too bad. All I want is to connect in the normal way if there is no other option. Thank you again, if this is successful I would like to thank you with something!!!

SMac770

If you have a radio unit with just the standard 2-ch or 4-ch powered output to the woofer/tweeter pairs in "the corners", just add a LOC (line output converter) tapped onto those outputs and run that into an aftermarket amp to drive an aftermarket subwoofer. No need to stay with a factory configuration just to get some improvement. Lot of aftermarket sub amps have all kinds of controls like variable crossover and remote variable boost, etc. But yeah, I'd throw the Bose amp back up for sale, unless you also got all the speakers for that config. Then, assuming you don't have a MOST version of the head unit, you'd want to consider grabbing that.