BrauHaus

I've got an amp that is rated at 150x2 and 600x1 bridged to a 4ohm load running to my sub as it is right now. I'm fixing to install a second amp to components that run at 400x2 at a 4ohm load and 100x4 at a 4ohm load. With a 14.4v source the two amps should be drawing 41.6 and 55.55 amps for a total of 97.15 amps, unless I'm terribly mistaken.
I'm pretty sure as of now my power wire for the sub amp is an 8gauge wire and so I would need to switch that out to a 4 gauge wire.

The PPI tech manual says I need to run a ground wire in addition to a power wire from the battery to the amp. Problem is, where do I get a ground wire? None of the amplifier installation kits I've seen include a ground wire long enough to run from the battery to the amplifier. Where would I connect this ground wire coming directly from the battery to the amplifier?

Also, the manual says I need an 80A max in line fuse for the 4 channel amp. Does this mean that I can use a fuse with a lower rating, say 60A? What would be the lower limit? Where can I buy fuses and fuse holders?

Next issue is the distribution block, the installation manual says to have inline fuses rated for each amplifier for each power wire after the distribution block to the amplifiers. Again where can I buy fuses and fuseholders for each amplifier?

Finally, at what point along this chain would I install the capacitor I currently have hooked up to the amplifier for my sub?

Any help much appreciated.

HIS4

It goes from the amp to a part of the chassis. Usually the grounding point is as close as possible to the amp. Within 18"-24" is usually the rule of thumb. You can use an existing bolt in the car like a seat belt bolt or something. Just make sure that you are grounding to bare metal. You must scape off or sand off any paint that is in the area that you will use to ground your amp.

HIS4

Don't forget to upgrade your ground wire to 4 ga also

BrauHaus

Thanks for the reply. However, my installation manual says to add a ground wire fromt eh battery to the amp in addition to the ground wire from the amp to the chassis when certain current and wattage limits are exceeded which I will as soon as I install my second amp.

HIS4

upgrading your chassis ground to 4 ga. If you run two grounds to two different places, you're creating a ground loop and that will cause alternator whine. You should also ground the two amps in the same place. The best thing to do would be to get a distribution block for your ground wires.

bobbO

First off, grounding any electrical component to the chassis is no worse than grounding it to the negative battery terminal regardless of current draw. As long as the grounding point is stripped of paint and provides a solid connection to bare metal, it will be fine. I have seen systems in excess of 2000w RMS grounded to the chassis, running on 1 stock battery. As current draw from the amps goes up, more strain may be put on your stock alternator... however, that has nothing to do with your decision to ground at the chassis or at the battery terminal. If you use ground wire in excess of 18-24" in a car, you will essentially be risking electrical shorts, an electrical fire, and a whole slew of other dangers. Listen to HIS4 and ground at the chassis.

BrauHaus

Can somebody point me in the right direction in terms of the inline fuses (which amperage to use, where to place them, etc.)? Oh and also the placement of the capacitor? Thanks all.

HIS4

THe manual of your amp will usually tell you what size fuse to use. If you have to amps, add up the recommended fuse sizes. If there is no fuse of that size, go to the next available size up. If I remember correctly, you have an amp thats rated for 150x2 or 600x1 and one thats 100x4 or 400x2. Looking at the PPI website that looks like it should come out to 160A. I don't think anybody makes a 160A fuse so you will have to use a 175A fuse. The fuse should be in the engine compartment no more than 18" from the battery. Capacitors are usually placed near the amplifier. Try to keep the wires between the amp and capacitor as short as possible.

Merkin

its not like the amps are drawing that much power constantly. i run 200x4 eclipse amp no CAP and my lights are fine.

BrauHaus

Actually, quite the contrary, all of those figures are RMS ratings.