h3rmes

After completing my audio system install, I wanted to share pictures to aid others in improving the audio quality of this excellent SUV. Clearly any Bose or B&O system is an insult to any Q7 owner. As an audio system designer, I steer toward simplicity in speakers (Coaxial) and high power quality amplification (Steve Mantz is my favorite amplifier designer. If you don't know him, you should. He currently designs amplifiers for Focal such as the FDP 6.900). I detest DSP and will never use it in a car. Also I follow Klippel independently measured and verified speaker parameters such as Hertz Cento CX 165. Here is a photo of the speakers that are installed on all 4 locations. More pictures to come. . .

bg_2007Q7

I'm not insulted by my Bose audio system in my Q7.

Not sure why I should be? Inquiring minds want to know...

h3rmes

These are speakers taken from the front kick panel on the left side and on the rear kick panel of the same side. Magnets are small and designed to carry a 2 ohm load on a low powered barely marginal class D Bose amplifier. This amplifier rolls off the low frequency at medium and loud listening levels to avoid amplifier burn out. The so called good sound that you are talking about actually comes from exaggerated DSP programming on the mid-range and center speaker located on the dash and the tweeter on the door sail panel.

It is also well known DSP as applied by Bose is used to lower manufacturing costs for loudspeakers because it can make lower quality speakers appear to sound better. There is a place and time for DSP if your into home theater and enjoy watching films, where the purpose is to enjoy the drama and to enjoy the sound as a background to the drama itself.

For me there is no such benefit when your in a car driving and enjoying the scenery. In fact, when I am driving, I am a more sensitive audio only listener. Therefore, I would argue that the Bose DSP system is not designed for true audio enjoyment. Rather its systems architects designed the audio quality based on cost and the laws of the average listener, who quite frankly, don't know any better.

To give you a sense of where I am coming from, I will tell you a little bit about my reference home audio system, which I judge my car audio sound quality:

It's a few years old, but Marantz AV 8802 Pre Amplifier has served me well throughout the years. (McIntosh uses the internals of this unit for their reference Pre-Amp)

This is a classic. I acquired these when M&K was making them in Los Angeles, CA, not the crap they sell today through a Danish company: Miller & Kreisel 750 THX Speaker System (Reference speaker at Sky Walker Ranch for recording Star Wars and many many famous films too many to count)

Most recently acquired are ATI Class D amplifiers made by the last California based manufacturer.

ATI Amplifier AT54X Class D Stereo 500W per channel for two channel listening
ATI Amplifier AT52X Class D 8 Channel 200W per channel for center and remaining effects listening

bg_2007Q7

All of what you said is true, but I still like the sound quality in my 07' Q7. Since I installed bluetooth with a Dension the sound is even better. I use poweramp to stream music from my phone and it has a built-in amp that enhances the sound.

Anyways, I wasn't expecting audiophile grade sound from my vehicle. I'm happy with what I have. Sure I would appreciate higher quality speakers and a larger subwoofer, but it is what it is.

You have to understand the manufacturer is trying to make a profit. Of course they're not going to throw in in audiophile quality, high priced speakers on a stock system. Remember when all car manufacturers used cardboard speakers? I'm talking Cadillac, Mercedes, BMW, even Audi did it.

I think this is a silly grudge. If all car manufacturers put in the very best, there would be no need for the aftermarket stereo industry. It exists due to the fact that they know stock systems aren't the best.

So, upgrade till your ears bleed. If you want to make a big statement, post your before and after with a tutorial, so others ca n follow your lead...

cocadave

Are you going to share more of a write up? I'm looking for ideas around upgrading speakers

h3rmes

Just answering your question. That is my intention. To demonstrate that sound quality can be improved on this SUV.

h3rmes

Who on the planet creates a custom 7.5" woofer? Answer Audi!

h3rmes

To remove the front left door panel, you will need to remove the wood trim and the plastic cover on the right side of the the locking switch. There is also another screw in the handle cavity in the door arm rest on the drivers side only. And a final screw on the bottom of the panel. Use a T20 torx screw driver.

Use a trim puller to insert and then twist. You will hear a "pop" as the fasteners unsnap.

Best practices requires you to unhook the locking cable known as a Bowden cable. You will see it from the top. It is small hook shaped device inserted into a hole that connected to the door release handle.

Next you will take a small flathead screwdriver to loosen and then disconnect a cable the connects the mirror, windows, and lighting on the door panel.

WARNING: Make sure you either disconnect the battery or insure the vehicle is connected to a battery minder that provides a constant charge. Any change in voltage on the door control unit will cause a short circuit on the door control unit. Trust me I found out the hard way and I had to replace the door control unit. Any door control unit will work just make sure you buy the same part number and model year of your car. I paid 50 bucks to a junkyard. No big deal.

h3rmes

For the front door woofer, you will need to adapt the speaker enclosure. You may buy from many folks from Alibaba or you can make it yourself. I used mdf from home depot with a Dremel circle cutter tool. Remember don't forget the alignment notch (shown at the bottom of the adapter).



Fits like a glove!

h3rmes

Use a multi-meter to tap the wires. On my SUV the wires were brown with black stripe and yellow maybe white with black stripe. Brown is (-) and yellow is (+).