Audi'sRevenge

So I'm trying to do as the thread title states and I've done a lot of searching around the web, on other forums as well as this one.

There seems to be very little info/details about this

Anyway what I've found out so far is that I need
a Metra 99-9104 (about to order that) so I've got that much down.

I've also found from researching that the Concert II+ uses a "QuadLock" connector in the rear (haven't pulled the HU yet as I'm just waiting for a set of keys to arrive in the mail). On the diagrams I've found on the 'net it seems the front speakers are driven by the HU while the rear and "sub" are driven by an external amp (possibly the same one that's on the pax side of the hatch?). Do I have that correct? Apparently the RNS-E uses the same type of Quadlock (?) but I haven't found harness for a car with factory nav either!

How is the centre channel driven though? From the pics I'm seeing of the HU's pinout, I don't see a centre channel. (Pics I've seen were of a Symphony II+ from an A4 I believe so I'm not sure if my car is any different until I pull the HU and see).

What harness do I need for the car or is one even made? Neither Metra or Scoshe seem to have one. I don't really mind cutting/splicing the factory wires, it's not huge deal but the factory stereo will likely go back in eventually as this is a lease and it would make it easier.

I found an antenna adapter which has a trigger wire, which I'm assuming is appropriate here? The Concert II+ uses two antenna inputs though I've read, so do you just connect that adapter to one of the antennas?

Also how do I get the illumination wire in this car? I think it's CAN bus to the radio for illumination and the headlight switch is CAN too, correct? So where would I get a +12V illum. signal? I was thinking I would just use an interior lamp provided it doesn't dim with
the dimmer dial.

Anyway sorry for the longish post. It would really help if I had the wiring diagrams for the car but of course those aren't available to me I can't seem to find enough info searching google/forums as indicated. Some of these questions have been asked by others on other Audi/A3 forums yet no answers ever appear for the 08 and the II+ radios. Any help/advice is appreciated!

MacSub

as it sounds terrible, unless you like the sound of a baby crying.
The only adapter you'll need apart from the antenna adapter, is the link for the rear/sub amp. Personally you'd be better wiring the rear speakers back to the HU and using the sub out pre-out on the new HU to drive just the sub, and remote on to tigger the sub amp.
I wouldn't worry about illumination unless you can pick it up off the stock power ISO connector. It will be detailed on the schematic on top of the stock HU.

Audi'sRevenge

Thanks for the reply! I totally agree about the centre, being an unprocessed mix between the front L&R pair it does sound stupid.

The HU going in is going to be a Kenwood DNX8120 which has built-in DD/DTS decoding (and also DPL-II), and other than the occasional use of DPL-II on some stereo material, the centre (and rear speakers) will be off at all times unless I'm playing a DVD and then the rest of the speakers will be used. The DNX doesn't have amplification for the centre only a pre-out so I'll have to find some small old-skool cheap 2ch amp with about 25-40W and drive it off one channel I guess. How do I get to the centre channel though, the actual driver? Can I just pop off that grille that sits on top of the dash?

The majority of the factory stuff is going to be replaced rather quickly but I might end up getting some components before others. In the end all that's going to be left operational/installed of the factory system is the rear speakers (running off HU power) and the centre channel.

I think it will be better to just start doing all my wiring now as I hate using rear speakers anyway, and they are tied on the fader to the "sub" (which is retarded IMO). Turn off the rear speakers, lose the sub--I wonder what moron at Audi thought that one up?

So really I guess I just have to worry about wiring up the HU... I'm guessing everything is CAN bus to the Concert II+ though right? Is there even switched power in the factory wiring to the HU? What about the reverse signal (not that I need it now but in case I add a camera)?

Oh one last question, where's a good place to wire through a main power wire for the amps? My car is a DSG and I read that you can use the area where the clutch pedal would have gone throgh for a manual trans car--is that big enough to fit a 1/0 wire?

MacSub

Or will you be looking to jump start a JCB?
Only competition systems need that sort of current, and if you do actually need it then you'll need a second battery and alternator upgrade so the bulkhead question is irrelevant.
4 gauge is plenty for up to 3kW, why make life incredibly difficult for yourself by running 1/0 in some misguided belief that you need it?

If you want access to the centre speaker just pick up the connections from the speaker ISO block on the back of the HU. I don't think the grill prises up too easily but I could be wrong.
There is no ignition on anywhere on the HU loom, you'll need to wire one in, either from the fusebox, or do it properly by tapping the wire under the steering column and use it to trigger a relay.

HIS4

I was able to get it far enough below the carpet and pad than you cannot tell it's there once everything is put back. Either side would have worked but the entrance into the engine bay is on the driver's side for my car.

I ran 1/0 because my amps had unregulated power supplies and they were class A/B so I wanted to minimize voltage drops due to transient peaks as much as possible. I was running a little over 2kW at the time. I don't know what the factory alternator size is on an A3 but I didn't need to do any upgrades to the alternator or battery on my car.

Audi'sRevenge

LOL PA system... Jokes

You're right I can probably get away with running 4 gauge for the amplification I'm going to be running but I happen to have a Kicker Hyperflex 1/0 kit lying around which I might as well use. You can't go wrong with going too big on the power wire

Don't worry about me having misguided beliefs though. I probably should have mentioned I've been installing mobile electronics (as a "DIYer") since about 15 years ago now. I've done alarms and RSes and everything so I do know what I'm doing when it comes to wiring as well, heh. I just don't know the specifics for this vehicle

My other older car has Focals run active/bi-amped and actually has more amplfication power than the A3 will have. This car is going to be running a Concept CC-D1200, 1200W D-class (which I just picked up, new, on eBay for cheap!) on the e12a and I'm probably not going to bi-amp here so an Aura RPM 3002 (85x2 A/B) running the front comp set. Then perhaps a small amp on the centre as mentioned, and then HU power to the rears.

Also, I'm going to install some Aura AST-2B4-04 transducers under the front seats (provided I can get them fitted under there properly, I haven't pulled the seats yet to see what they are like underneath); amp for that is another 100W D-class...

I'm sure 4 ga would work fine but having a $100 kit lying around doing nothing I may as well use it. Plus it gives room if I ever want to put in more/larger amp(s), which knowing me, I may well do in the future lol.

I was afraid everything was going to be CAN bus on this car Well at least Audi makes it easy to swap HUs with the standard DIN sizing (and not the stupid integrated dashes everyone else is using these days). Why would I need to run a relay from the "wire under the steering column"? Is this a low current wire? What wire is this anyway?

I've seen a CAN adapter on eBay that gives out switched power, illumination, parking brake, VSS, etc. but it's like $100--a little too much for signals I can probably grab elsewhere with some effort.

miwim

they make adapter that have speaker connection and line input w/ amp power control signal. They also convert CAN bus signal so you get VSS, Illumination and Ignition signal as well.

MacSub

as is the case for most people. Stick a 40amp fuse in the fuseholder and see if you can blow it!

HIS4

Each amp had a 125A circuit breaker installed in front of it per the manufacturers recommendation (they did not have internal fuses). I did measure over a 60A draw once but my concern was more voltage drop and not current capacity. The unregulated power supplies on my amps would cause about a 15% drop in power output with only a 1V drop.

diagnosticator1

during that time. IE, wiring diagrams. $29.95<ul><li><a href="http://ebahn.bentleypublishers.com/AUDI/">Clicky:</a></li></ul>