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Running new speaker wires into the doors (2003 A4)

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Old 06-16-2003, 07:00 AM
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Default Running new speaker wires into the doors (2003 A4)

I'd really like to run my new speaker wires int the doors as opposed to just connecting to the existing harness at the door...what's the point of running high end wire if you just splice it into the factory stuff for the last 3 feet? Anyway, anyone done this? Is there a space to drill through the connector in the door jabm and run the wires?
Old 06-16-2003, 07:23 AM
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Default Re: Running new speaker wires into the doors (2003 A4)

On my 2002 A4 I found, much to my dissapointment, that there is no 'tunnel' in that rubber accordian between the car and the door (like I had found on other cars). I was prepared to run my cable through that tunnel. Turns out, the rubber accordian, as I call it, is simply a short harness that plugs into the door...and into the car (hope that makes sense). In order to run new wire, I think you have to drill. Considering how crowded that area is (especially in the car at the driver's side) I just decided to use the factory wire into the door. Perhaps I gave up too easy...but it just didn't seem worth the time / risk.
Old 06-16-2003, 09:56 AM
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Default Thanks for the input...

I figured that was the case...as I have heard. How did you identify the factory wire going into the door and how did you connect to it?
Old 06-16-2003, 02:11 PM
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Default Took the easy way out...

...I just ran both (left and right side) front speaker wires from my amp in the trunk to the back of the radio and spliced into the wires going to the speakers there. It was alot easier than trying to cut in at the door harness.

By the way...this is non-Bose only. In Bose, the amp for all of the speakers is in the rear (which actually makes this much easier if replacing everything and putting an amp in the trunk). In non-Bose, the front speakers (as well as center channel) are powered directly from the Symphony II.
Old 06-16-2003, 06:23 PM
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Default Interesting method...hadn't thought of doing that...

I'll have to check the quality of the factory speaker wire but it'd probably do just fine all the way from the trunk...I have Bose. Then all I'd have to do is pull the door panels up front, mount the X-over and new drivers and go. I'll still have to figue out how to get the door sills off though to run the power and signal to the trunk.
Old 06-16-2003, 09:25 PM
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Default Actually, Audi runs fairly high quality 14 gauge speaker wire...

...to each door. Not bad or a difference you're ever going to hear (or see, unless you hook up an oscilloscope).

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/20982/a4rearco.jpg">
Old 06-17-2003, 04:37 AM
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Default Sounds good enough for me...and makes my job that much easier.

Is there a cross-over in the door for the stock setup or are there two seperate wires running into the door? Also, Your install looks very clean...did you make those mounting rings yourself or did you pick them up somewhere? Is it necessary to use mounting rings like that or did you just need more mounting depth for the driver?
Old 06-17-2003, 04:59 AM
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Default The 'crossover' is just a capacitor mounted at the 6.5" driver...

...so only one wire runs to the 6.5" driver...and then a wire runs from that to the tweeter.

You will need some sort of mounting rings. Looks like AggregatVier got his mounting rings the same place I got mine - from a fellow AW member who was making them for a while...but I don't believe he is anymore. Some guys I think have used MB Quart adapters...while others have somehow removed the stock driver from the plastic part that mounts to the car. You might want to do a search on that.
Old 06-17-2003, 09:19 PM
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Default Holding the old one in my hand: the cap is on the side of the tweeter. The...

...mounting rings/adapters were from master craftsman Eric Cheng. They fit perfectly. While there's enough depth in the rear doors where you could mount most speakers directly to the door, the front openings have a brace blocking the hole. The mounts also bring the front of the speakers out far enough to mate up with the door grills. Check my picture poster for adding in the crossovers. In other locations you'll run into door panel obstructions or things behind the panel you don't want a mounting screw to go into. Make sure you get about 10 door clips part number 8E0 868 243 'cause you WILL break some.
Old 06-18-2003, 01:15 PM
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Default My goof - yes, the cap is on the tweeter. There is a spot on the 6.5" driver where...

...the wire going to the tweeter plugs in, though. That's probably what I was thinking about.


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