A3 4 Me

Don't get me wrong - I like it's deep lasting shine, but I'm tired of the dust; I feel like my car needs to be washed immediately after waxing to get rid of the dusty residue. My car lives outside 365 days per year, and I don't want to wax more than 3 or 4 times per year - so I need something that's tough. Is P21s my best alternative?

Zed 2.0

Look into Zaino as well

bobbO

Go with a polymer sealant (i.e. Zaino or Klasse) -- more durable than carnauba wax and easy to apply

RickM

You're probably applying way too much product. I can't think of any other reason why you'd have so much dust that you feel like washing your car again. I've been using Blitz for years and I can't even envision what you're talking about. Sure there's a little dust, but nothing like what you're describing. And I just detailed my wife's brilliant black wagon today (wash-clay-polish-glaze-wax-UGH), so believe me I know about dust.

As for removal, try "once over roughly" with a cotton towel to get rid of 95% of the wax but without paying any attention to detail. Then follow up with a couple microfiber towels. The microfiber makes the final buffing ultra easy, while also grabbing all the dust. But first and foremost try using half as much wax as you've been using and see if that helps. If it doesn't, or if you've already tried this, well, I guess you're doing the right thing by looking for an alternative.

A3 4 Me

I've never owned a car I cared about before the Audi, so I'm new to this washing & waxing business! I may be applying it too heavily; I'm planning another coat in a few days so I'll try to use less and see if that helps. I'm also buffing with soft flannel towels, so maybe a microfiber towel will be better.

RKA

First, you need to work on applying a thin layer of wax. Your paint will only "accept" a very thin layer of wax. If you apply more, you will have to buff it off, so that's more work for you. You can use a foam wax applicator, or a clean standard household sponge (I prefer the later, because it's thicker, and large enough that I can cut it down to the size and shape I want). Wet the applicator down with water, and keep a spray bottle with water nearby. The applicator should not be soaked, it should only be damn, so that when you squeeze it, water doesn't drop out onto the paint. Use the spray bottle to keep the sponge damp while you're working. If you notice the sponge drying out, just give it a spritz of water. The water helps the wax spread onto the paint in a thin and even coat.

When buffing, I agree with Rick, use a clean (no fabric softener!) dry 100% cotton terry towel to lift up 90% of the wax. Just do a quick pass to remove the bulk of the wax. When the towel gets loaded with too much wax (you'll notice that it won't lift out the wax so well), just take it outside and shake it out...most of the wax will fall out. Follow up with the flannel buffing clothes that you have. Use those to remove the last bits of wax and buff it to a nice shine. Microfiber buffing clothes work great, but if you're not interested in spending more money, the flannel you have will do fine, as long as it's 100% cotton.

Style12v

klasse & zaino have almost no residue, and antistatic properties to cut down on dust

RickM

The flannel cloths I have don't "grab" the wax residue or dust, and they load up fast. They just seem very poorly suited to wax removal. I used to use them for final buffing, for which they work fine, but mostly now I use microfiber because they grab the remaining dust so well too.

Let us know if changing your cloths (and reducing the amount of wax you're applying) helps!

RaudiA7

P21S wax - easy on and off, minimal "dust" or residue. use a microfiber cloth to remove any wax. alternative to go with acrylic finish like klasse.

Ted K

chalking waxes out there. The other wax I would recommend is P21S Concours look carnuba wax. It could also be what you're using to remove the wax; make sure it's 100% cotton only.