Type of ABS module?
#1
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2001 A6 2.7t. Is there any way of telling which module I have on my car without removing it and looking at the part number? These things are not cheap and im looking into re-soldering the wires that have more than likely caused the failure. Im assuming I have the Bosch 5.3 module. Any other way to check would save me some time. Thanks.
#2
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best to read part# of the module, unfortunately the bar code and part# is located under the module where the connector is, mirror and flashlight will help, if you don't want to remove the module..
otherwise will be hard to determine which one you have, without getting part#
otherwise will be hard to determine which one you have, without getting part#
#3
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If you have VCDS you can scan it to get the module type. $20 china cable and the freeware version will get you enough info.
On a long winded note...
I tried to re-solder my Bosch 5.7 module last week - it had broken on the board side though - and the board is a ceramic-substrate with aluminum wire-bonded connectors on the board side. Covered with some weird booger-goo that isnt the easiest to remove (have to tweeze and scrape to get it clear). You can solder it if it breaks on the pin-side (brass coated) but not on the board side. You won't be able to wet the wires, but you can just make a solder-blob that mechanically holds the wires in place.
Ended up making my module FUBAR, and had to buy a new one from the dealer. Probably best to go to cheapabs.com and send your module to a pro. It's really not too hard to remove (have to take the wheel off, t-20 torx screws that hold the wheel arch cover, then 2 10mm bolts to remove the washer bottle, then 6x t-25 torx for the module). takes about a half an hour for your first time, and the car will drive fine without the module.
On a long winded note...
I tried to re-solder my Bosch 5.7 module last week - it had broken on the board side though - and the board is a ceramic-substrate with aluminum wire-bonded connectors on the board side. Covered with some weird booger-goo that isnt the easiest to remove (have to tweeze and scrape to get it clear). You can solder it if it breaks on the pin-side (brass coated) but not on the board side. You won't be able to wet the wires, but you can just make a solder-blob that mechanically holds the wires in place.
Ended up making my module FUBAR, and had to buy a new one from the dealer. Probably best to go to cheapabs.com and send your module to a pro. It's really not too hard to remove (have to take the wheel off, t-20 torx screws that hold the wheel arch cover, then 2 10mm bolts to remove the washer bottle, then 6x t-25 torx for the module). takes about a half an hour for your first time, and the car will drive fine without the module.
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