UPDATE. Streetwerke/Clutch Masters first driving impressions...
#1
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OK, so today I picked up my car from my friend's shop after they installed the new clutch and pressure plate in it yesterday.
As a reminder I chose the <b>Clutch Master Stage 3 kit</b> after talking to Darren and Jason at <b>Streetwerke.</b> Clutch Masters rates this kit at <b>110%</b> above the OEM stock torque number at the flywheel (166 ft/lbs)?! Assuming my math is good that's about <b>350 ft/lbs</b> at the flywheel with this Stage 3 kit. To me that's a weird way of expressing a clutch rating. I called Clutch Masters and inquired about this and finally I got a number that's more conventional to me at least. They rate this kit at <b>2400 lbs</b> of clamping power or static pressure on a disk. I won't go through the RE/RE because there is nothing different with this kit. It goes in the same way an OEM clutch would go in.
Back to my driving impressions. The first thing I noticed even before the motor was started was the ease at which the clutch pedal went in. At first I thought they had forgotten to reconnect the darn pedal. Rest assured they did not and I started the car and went through a couple of in and out cycles. Yes the clutch pedal feel is significantly lighter to push in. It's almost like having a boosted power steering.
The second thing you immediately notice is the engagement point or at what stage in the pedal travel the clutch engages and releases. Pushing the pedal in requires more travel than the OEM clutch to engage the Clutch Masters unit. This means the pedal is closer to the car's floor at the engagement point. The reverse is also true on the way out or up depending on your point of view. Aside from those two differences the shifting is the same. Everything seems to work perfectly so far. I have only about 30 miles on it and they recommend 450 to 500 miles for the break in period before you start giving it some hard times.
I'll keep you posted as I near the end of the break in period and on any further developments.
As a reminder I chose the <b>Clutch Master Stage 3 kit</b> after talking to Darren and Jason at <b>Streetwerke.</b> Clutch Masters rates this kit at <b>110%</b> above the OEM stock torque number at the flywheel (166 ft/lbs)?! Assuming my math is good that's about <b>350 ft/lbs</b> at the flywheel with this Stage 3 kit. To me that's a weird way of expressing a clutch rating. I called Clutch Masters and inquired about this and finally I got a number that's more conventional to me at least. They rate this kit at <b>2400 lbs</b> of clamping power or static pressure on a disk. I won't go through the RE/RE because there is nothing different with this kit. It goes in the same way an OEM clutch would go in.
Back to my driving impressions. The first thing I noticed even before the motor was started was the ease at which the clutch pedal went in. At first I thought they had forgotten to reconnect the darn pedal. Rest assured they did not and I started the car and went through a couple of in and out cycles. Yes the clutch pedal feel is significantly lighter to push in. It's almost like having a boosted power steering.
The second thing you immediately notice is the engagement point or at what stage in the pedal travel the clutch engages and releases. Pushing the pedal in requires more travel than the OEM clutch to engage the Clutch Masters unit. This means the pedal is closer to the car's floor at the engagement point. The reverse is also true on the way out or up depending on your point of view. Aside from those two differences the shifting is the same. Everything seems to work perfectly so far. I have only about 30 miles on it and they recommend 450 to 500 miles for the break in period before you start giving it some hard times.
I'll keep you posted as I near the end of the break in period and on any further developments.
#2
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Bigger piston = longer throw with less effort. Magura offers several clutch and brake masters for my bike with different piston diameters so you can tune the feel at the levers or push more fluid for multi piston calipers.
#3
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- the engagement lower to the floor and also the reverse being true on the way out or up - this was similar to a hybrid clutch I had SPEC make me - the one caution I would offer is that it almost felt like a double engagement point - it would engage low and then engage again higher - the reason I say caution is that when I let my mechanic drive the car (and then my wife) they would apply the gas once the initial engagement point was reached but not having fully released the clutch
- short story is that my wife ultimately fried the clutch backing out of a steep driveway
- you are the first person to describe the situation that I previously had so I offer this caution incase it happens to you
- short story is that my wife ultimately fried the clutch backing out of a steep driveway
- you are the first person to describe the situation that I previously had so I offer this caution incase it happens to you
#4
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It's also the reason why they get a higher pressure plate clamping power.
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