Doing some DE events, but do not want to go BBK.

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Old 02-12-2008, 02:03 PM
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Default Re: "My first 60 track days were on stock brakes."

Indeed, until most people get really deep into DE and track events they will dabble in several set ups, initially prolonging their OEM or nearly stock set up until their lap speeds and pads use increase.

Since brakes turn speed into heat (simplistically)
make sure you:

Find a way to get heat out of the rotors.

One of the cheapest ways to prolong braking life is to duct air to the rotor.

Pad compounds vary to use and degree of abuse.

Rotors are the heat sink where the heat goes.

Cool these guys down and you'll be able go deeper and reduce brake fade & boiling fluid.

Factor in these basics when you look for your braking solution.

-Scott by BOSTON
Old 02-12-2008, 02:39 PM
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Default Or......

Slow down to 7/10ths.... I've tracked the Passat several times last year and if you have the mentality that you are going to work on the line and avoid bombing it to the last brake marker, your brakes will be just fine.

Last year (after Daveykid left me alone at the track), I ran almost 1hr 25mins with the Passat. Lap after lap I worked the car to the limits except for brake zones, where I backed off a bunch. Instead of braking at the 2 marker on ABCC N1, I started to brake at the 4 marker. Yes, after my session, the rotors were at 970degrees, but I still had brakes.

Both driving styles are a ton of fun, one is just a tad harder on the braking system than the other.

BBK isn't needed.

YMMV.
Old 02-12-2008, 03:25 PM
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Default recall, you are talking to a straight line *****...GAS GAS GAS GAS GAS

I totally know what you're saying, the thing is, it's damn hard to do when you first get out there.

It's fun going fast and braking late and some people have a harder time controlling themselves than others

The single thing that can screw up a track day is fading brakes.

The Festiva on the other hand has no brakes, just holes in the floor (like Fred Flinstone).
Old 02-13-2008, 03:25 AM
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Default Nobody NEEDS a BBK for DE's, but

When it comes to the second most important safety system in your car there are some inexpensive things you can do to prolong component life.

First, go with Motul 600 for fluid. It's a little more costly, but worth every penny - it doesn't boil under normal - harsh - driving conditions.

Second - get some air in there to cool things off. Remove the splash guard (sometimes referred to as the backing plate) and fashion air ducts out of shop vac hose and zip ties if you must.

Third, use a good pad. I wouldn't go with anything less than HT-10's for such a heavy car.

Fourth, those pads are agressive - you WILL get rotor wear. Hunt around and get cyrogenicially treated rotors. A few more bucks, but they will last twice as long - or more.

But really, you don't NEED any of the above if you don't over-drive your car. Turn off your chip for the first day and get to know the rhythm of the track. Higher speeds in the straights mean you have to convert that speed into heat to slow for the corners. There are no prizes at our events for fastest times. It's really more about finding your limits (and the limits of whatever equipment you happen to have), learning proper technique and having a great time.

A pretty good driver by the name of Jackie Stewart once said the the driver who wins the race is the one that uses his brakes the least.

We're looking forward to seeing you at the track!
Old 02-13-2008, 05:01 AM
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i'll have my camera ready
Old 02-13-2008, 05:29 AM
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Default

Agreed. And just don't overdrive them.
Old 02-13-2008, 06:19 AM
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Default Maybe but they wont overheat as quickly and leave pad deposits on the rotor

that vibration from pad deposits can ruin a track day just as easy as brake fade. With brake fad you can just dial it down a bit but those deposits can take some work to get off.

either way his best bet is to use the better fluid/track pad and not run under stg2 power. But then what fun would that be!
Old 02-13-2008, 03:32 PM
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Default Upon further consideration...

If you have never done an event, just run the stock pad with Motul, cryo rotors and ducting. You'll be learning so many other things, you won't be able to achieve the type of repeated deep braking that comes with confidence and familiarity with the venue. At least not until the second half of the second day.

If you've done a few, then step up to a better pad - depending on your driving style, Some folks love the Blues, some the HT-10's. I prefer the DTC-70's, but Don't use me as an example - or at least not as a good example...

Your instructor should be able to guide you in pad selection.
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