Someone want to help me hardwire a V1?

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Old 12-02-2004, 07:58 AM
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Default Someone want to help me hardwire a V1?

Just ordered it yesterday so I thought that I might try and hardwire it this weekend. If anyone has time let me know, I could use some expertise. Beer provided if anyone is interested.

Mike
Old 12-02-2004, 08:05 AM
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Default I'd be glad to help, I did it myself not too long ago.

Where do you live, I'll stop by.
Old 12-02-2004, 08:44 AM
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Default It is really easy to do...

All you do is :

1) Remove the Fuse box panel cover. It is the cover on the left side of the dash when you open the door.

2) Remove the drivers side Knee bolster. 4 8mm bolts: 1 under the fuse box cover, 2 under the two rectangular covers on the knee bolster, and one more down below on the right side. Be sure to disconnect the ODB-II connector on the left and the footwell light as well.

3) You will instantly see the relay panel and a bunch of power posts below it. Find the one that is marked 75X. (be sure the car is off) This post is off when the car is off, and powered with 12-13 volts when the car is on, so it fits the bill.

4) Take the Hardwire adaptor that will come with your kit, clip the end off of the red wire, strip about 1 1/2 inches of the insulation off. Unscrew the bolt on the 75X post enough so that you can wrap the red wire around it a couple of times. Bolt it back down.

5) Take the black wire and connect it to any of the bolts that hold the fuse box to the Aluminum frame of the dash. I chose to use the one just to the right of the bolt that needs to be removed to remove the Knee bolster. Be sure not to pull it through the little rectagular slot as that is where the fuse box cover clip goes into.

6) Now you have power and ground. Route the Hardwire adaptor itself up and over the structural "diamonds" and into the empty area just above the fuses. I chose to velcro mine here as it was easy access in case of the inline fuse going out. Plus since i was working on developing the Remote mute switches for the V1, it was easy access to connect and disconnect the mute switches for testing.

7) Next you need to route the Flat V1 cable from up near the rear view mirror, along the top of the windsheild, down the A-pillar, and down into the dash area. Seems like a PITA but it really isnt hard at all. The most difficult part is getting the wire over the tip of the A-pillar cover just above the dash where the dash and point of the cover meet the windsheild. Other than that, you just shove the wire into the crevases (sp?) of the A-pillar cover, and above the headliner along the windsheld.

I found it helpfull every 6 inches to wrap Electrical tape sticky side out just to hold the wire in a little better.

8) Connect the Black V1 wire into the "main" slot. If you want i have Extra Remote mute switches that snake through your steering colum and you glue to the back of your high beam switch for quick and easy muting action. That just connects into the "accessory" slot.

9) Reinstall the Bolster, and Fuse box cover and zip tie any stray or loose wires and you are good to go.
Old 12-02-2004, 08:48 AM
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Default Re: I'd be glad to help, I did it myself not too long ago.

Deltona. I4 Exit 114. If you come to hopes tonight I will give you more detailed directions. Thanks for the help.

Mike
Old 12-02-2004, 09:06 AM
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Default Do you still have any of those mute switches left?

If so, let me know how much, i'd like to incorporate that into the install.
Old 12-02-2004, 09:09 AM
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Yep, i have about 8 i think... $10
Old 12-02-2004, 09:36 AM
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If you are going to Hops tonight and can bring one, I'll bring $10
Old 12-02-2004, 01:51 PM
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will do. Anyone else want one?
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