What year eurovan block do I need?
02-21-2005, 06:00 PM
#2
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They only made the Eurovan from '92-'96, "AAF" is the 2.5L "ACU" is the 2.4L diesel I believe......
Diesel bore and stroke: 79.5mm X 95.5mm=2371c
Gasoline bore and stroke: 81mm X 95.5mm=2461cc
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/41804/eurovan.jpg">
Gasoline bore and stroke: 81mm X 95.5mm=2461cc
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/41804/eurovan.jpg">
02-22-2005, 08:02 AM
#3
Close....AAB is the 2.4L diesel, AAF & ACU are the 2.5L gas motors.
The AAF is the older 2.5L, the ACU was used in the final two production years in the USA. Low CR motors I think, they only made 110hp, but a fairly broad torque curve, peaking at 150-something.
02-22-2005, 12:13 PM
#6
I'd start with the gas motors, less machine work. All 2.4/2.5 10v's use the same crank
regardless of being gas or diesel. So, that isn't a problem. However, the 2.4L AAB diesel has tiny holes, 79mm, so you'd want to punch it out to at least 81mm, which is where the AAF/ACU gas motors are at from the factory.
All of those blocks can take 82.5mm to 83mm pistons for even more displacement. You may want to have the head massaged a bit for the added displacement (more air flow), and run a different turbo. Going from 2226cc (81x86.4) to 2460cc (81x95.5) or even 2553cc (82.5x95.5) and the slightly bigger 2584cc (83x95.5) is a pretty big bump in displacement.
I'd get new rods (pauter, carillo, eagle, someone!) and pistons (JE, Wiseco, etc) to make sure things are turbo friendly.
All of those blocks can take 82.5mm to 83mm pistons for even more displacement. You may want to have the head massaged a bit for the added displacement (more air flow), and run a different turbo. Going from 2226cc (81x86.4) to 2460cc (81x95.5) or even 2553cc (82.5x95.5) and the slightly bigger 2584cc (83x95.5) is a pretty big bump in displacement.
I'd get new rods (pauter, carillo, eagle, someone!) and pistons (JE, Wiseco, etc) to make sure things are turbo friendly.
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02-22-2005, 12:22 PM
#8
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You think I can stick with the stock rods in a N.A. setup big fellah????
I know we talked about this before: 034 EFI, with serious port work, 35mm ex, 7mm stems, 83mm 10.:1 custom pistons= 180hp and 200lb.ft of torque????????
02-22-2005, 12:40 PM
#10
Yeah, I think you'd be OK....
I'd maybe think about doing some stress relief on the rods, I may do so even on my MC-1 rods. Basically just clean them up, that way there are fewer places for cracks and such to start.
You'll be pretty darn happy with the results from a stroked 10v. I know someone who is just about ready to pull the trigger on a 2.5L 20v setup, shooting for 210hp "easily" according to the head/machine shop guru he's sending his 20v head to. He's just going to run some sort of piggy back controller, so we'll see what is going to happen power wise for him.
If you want to run 7mm stems, start rounding up bits from the AFC code 12v V6. That engine also has lighter hydraulic lifters, and a lighter valve train in general (single spring setup versus the older dual spring setup). One of the several reasons why they are so darn smooth and rev so easily.
You'll be pretty darn happy with the results from a stroked 10v. I know someone who is just about ready to pull the trigger on a 2.5L 20v setup, shooting for 210hp "easily" according to the head/machine shop guru he's sending his 20v head to. He's just going to run some sort of piggy back controller, so we'll see what is going to happen power wise for him.
If you want to run 7mm stems, start rounding up bits from the AFC code 12v V6. That engine also has lighter hydraulic lifters, and a lighter valve train in general (single spring setup versus the older dual spring setup). One of the several reasons why they are so darn smooth and rev so easily.