jpn26

I am
having problem that no one (including dealer). Dealer wanted 3000$ to replace just about everything. The problem is that the car won't cold start. When I can get it going it runs real great until I shut it down after it warms up. when I do it is almost impossible to restart and if it starts again it runs like it is on four cyl instead of five. I mean it will then run like it has water in the gas and like it is starving for gas . Overnight In the morning if I can get it going it will run great. Please I need help. This is our only vehicle. Thank you and God bless you all.
John

bianchi

where do you live, maby i can help

Drew_Saratoga NY

John, post your question on the 5000/200/V8 forum. There are a bunch of different things that cause your issue. Some worse than others. Many people on that forum had been in the same scenario.
Also try searching the archives as well.
Lastly, you want to stay away from the dealers. As you have already discovered, they want lots O $$$
You want to find an independant shop that knows these cars. They have their quirks, but mechanics that know them usually know them well.
Farther down the forum list, they list out Regional forums. Pick one close to you and ask on there for a reputeable shop close to your home. Also, make a not to point out that you are not interested in modding or racing, but daily driver car repairs and such.
Lastly, where are you? If you are in New England, there is a lot of help available to you.
Good luck
Drew

jpn26

I live in vivian, Louisiana

jpn26

Thank you Drew. I will do that

TonyOldSchool

Had the same prob. The dumb book I have(Chiltons) really doesn't give you a clear view of what to do. I was scrolling around the other forums and came to your question. Check to see if the cold start injector works when powered up w/ 12+V. Trace down the 5 injector steel braided lines to each injector. The one that is left is CSV.(injector). A wire comes off it and should read 12+ when cold starting. Hook the leads up of a VOM (volt ohm meter) and a good ground. If not, run a wire from the battery (positive) to the tab on the injector. It should make a noise ( I forgot if it was a clicking or a buzzing). Try and use a friend to turn the key and you touch the +12 wire to the valve. Should start right up. If it starts but stumbles touch it again and it will smooth out. Too much and you will flood it. There must be a relay or something but I could not trace down. I think the book says the ECU controls it. That means a thermostat must tell the ECU when to power it. Sounds crazy? Its German, what can I say! Maybe someone else can walk you through this but I seem to like the control I have over my Type 44. Now, if you want to go further on this then buy a small push button switch, drill a hole under the dash, run two wires thru the firewall to the valve. Use a Normally open push button, one side goes to a positive source and the other to the valve. Sorry for the long winded description but I don't know how involved you are in the electical / mechanical end of things. Many people give up or let the mechanic decide if the car is worth keeping. The DEALERS want only to sell & work on newer cars. If they would only gives us a break, they would realize that we would come back more often and in the end spend alot more in the long run.

ScottRB

The Audis have had that problem since the old 100LS days. I had to bypass a voltasge regulator that was supposed to supply the full 12V to the coil but wasn't wehn it was warm. I used a intermitant push buton until ist started. The previous owner had the car into the shop 5 times in a year.
If you're in Denver, Blazer Automotive is the best.