mckay johnson

About 3 mo ago, my 95 90 Sport's outer left CV Boot developed a split in the fold, which allowed dirt and dust to accumulate within the joint. Consequently, the right CV joint began to "CLACK" (before I even knew that the boot had split). At 64k, I figured that I might as well have the axle rebuilt. I took it into a European Auto Repair shop. They called me the next day to let me know that they had finished rebuilding the axle (warrantied the work for 90 days or 10,000 miles). After I picked the car up, I noticed that there was a hard pull on the right front, so I went and got an alignment and the problem was fixed. The car drove beautifully--for about 3 weeks. I say that because I began to notice a slight "CLACK" again in hard left turns that was progressively worsening. I immediately thought that the "rebuilt" left axle was the source, so I took the car back to the repair shop and drove with the manager in the car and simulated the problem. He said that it was not the CV joint, because the clacking only happens when I torque the engine AND make a hard left (65 degree + turn). He concluded that if it was the CV joint, the left end would "CLACK" even in small turns with or without any engine input. He also noted that the CLACK was slow and inconsistent, where a CV CLACK is rapid sounding and synchronized with the movement of the car (not to mention that the noise was not as pronounced or even sounding the same as a CV joint going out). It seemed probable, so I left the car with them for exploratory probing, but alas, they found nothing. So I begrudgingly took the car back and tolerated the annoying clack for a few more weeks. Then I noticed that the Right CV boot had finally developed a crack in the rubber as well, so I took it in and had them re-build the left axle for the second time (under warranty) while they replaced the worn boot on the right. That did not fix it.

Any body else out there experience anything like this? It only happens when making a hard left turn and I give the pedal some gas (otherwise, without accelerating, the sound never occurs.) I am worried that I am damaging something each time it happens. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

MikTip

The problem with "rebuilt" cv's, especially outer cv's is the rebuild usually only replaces the
***** of the joint with slightly larger ones than were originally installed. This is a vane attempt
to take up the worn slack.

Problem is the cage and inner ball surface wear too, and more often than not, the larger *****
only serve to wear the other items quicker.

Your clacking cv can last for years making that noise, and never have any other problems.

I had an 1981 5000T with clacking outer cv's for 13 years.

Its a major problem when the cv's clack while straight line driving.

Most places I've delt with who rebuild cv's warranty them for life! Whats up with your shop?

Rule of thumb with cv boots: Always replace them in pairs. You do one side the other usually follows soon after. The outer cv boots always wear much faster than the inner. Caught intime, the cv axle will normally need only a slight cleaning, repacking of grease, and be good to go with a new boot. Ignore, and you will need new cv, or live with the clacking in turns.

QCRAZY

I agree with miktp....CV joint is "bad"!!

Seattle Scott

Bad CV. Are CV joints worth rebuilding? 15 years ago I bought new ones. They weren't too costly.

MikTip

Price your particular Audi's cv's, at the dealership, both inner and outer, plus axle, and you'll see why rebuilds are more attractive!