Need to Replace Outer CV Joint Boot; Any Tips?
#1
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I'm replacing the outer CV joint boot on my '93 90cs fwd this weekend. I've ordered a "replacement boot kit" from Blaufergnugen. Are there special tools required or tricks? I have looked at the alldata site, but it was a bit sparse with instructions.
Thanks a bunch, it's always nice to get some help from the experts.
David
Thanks a bunch, it's always nice to get some help from the experts.
David
#2
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Lots-O-tricks!
You need special tool 3207 or a long bolt with M16 threads to "press off" the outer cv.
This method is by far the quickest,and simplest since the axle does not need to be removed from the car.
Alternate method involves smacking the outer cv with a rubber mallet until it comes off the axle.
This method is better done with the entire axle removed from the car, and held in a vise.
I've seen it done while on the car, but you need to be very strong to physically hold the axle by hand and smack the outer cv to drive it off the axle's end. Axle MUST be held to prevent damaging the inner cv. Also you need to figure out a way to hold the axle, smack the cv, and catch it when it does come off, with this method!
Friend of mine has a special pair of vise grips
designed to hold the round axle just for this method! He made the plyers himself!
First trick, is to loosen the large bolt which holds the outer cv inside the hub, with the cars
weight on its wheels. Large breaker bar needed here! Usually accessed through the small center
opening in the wheel, after removing small center hole cap.
Once the bolt is loose, not removed, loosen lug bolts, jack car, and remove wheel.
Next you want to remove lower ball joint bolt and nut. Then pry down the lower "A" arm to free the ball joint from the wheel bearing housing.
Once free'd the wheel bearing hub can be moved out of the way enough to remove the cv with special tool or M16 bolt. Or unbolted from the inner mount, and the entire axle assembly removed
if using rubber mallet method.
If using rubber mallet method, you must tap around the cv's edge to drive if free of the axle's cir-clip. Basically it will "pop" off.
So you will need to hold it from doing so or it can get damaged if it strikes ground. Place axle is a vise to hold axle.
If you want to try mallet method "on car" you will probably need to remove more components to make room for swinging the mallet to smack the cv.
I've done both and removing the axle always works out better.
Once you have the outer cv removed, the boot slides over the axle with a little effort and force. Most cv kits have instructions, but make sure you replace the small parts which were on the axle prior to removal. A metal washer and a plastic washer. They go on very specifically!
Take note of them!
Reinstalling the cv, requires it to be "tapped" back onto the axle with rubber mallet. Then fill the boot with grease, and install metal clips.
Some clips need to go on before the cv.
Then you will need a cv clip plyers! Usually a few $$ at a good parts place. They are needed to tension the metal clips which hold the boot on.
Make sure the clips are tensioned properly, and aligned straight.
You may need to "burp" the boot before tightening the clips. Normally tighten the small inner clip, burp the boot of air, then tighten the inner.
Everything else is reverse order of removal.
One other hint, most outer cv boots "go in pairs"
That is if one side is bad the other is not far behind! Soon after you do the outers the inners seem to go too!
Ideally you want to replace all four, but sometimes the inners will last longer than the outers.
Good idea to also get the repair manual for torque spec's and such.
You need special tool 3207 or a long bolt with M16 threads to "press off" the outer cv.
This method is by far the quickest,and simplest since the axle does not need to be removed from the car.
Alternate method involves smacking the outer cv with a rubber mallet until it comes off the axle.
This method is better done with the entire axle removed from the car, and held in a vise.
I've seen it done while on the car, but you need to be very strong to physically hold the axle by hand and smack the outer cv to drive it off the axle's end. Axle MUST be held to prevent damaging the inner cv. Also you need to figure out a way to hold the axle, smack the cv, and catch it when it does come off, with this method!
Friend of mine has a special pair of vise grips
designed to hold the round axle just for this method! He made the plyers himself!
First trick, is to loosen the large bolt which holds the outer cv inside the hub, with the cars
weight on its wheels. Large breaker bar needed here! Usually accessed through the small center
opening in the wheel, after removing small center hole cap.
Once the bolt is loose, not removed, loosen lug bolts, jack car, and remove wheel.
Next you want to remove lower ball joint bolt and nut. Then pry down the lower "A" arm to free the ball joint from the wheel bearing housing.
Once free'd the wheel bearing hub can be moved out of the way enough to remove the cv with special tool or M16 bolt. Or unbolted from the inner mount, and the entire axle assembly removed
if using rubber mallet method.
If using rubber mallet method, you must tap around the cv's edge to drive if free of the axle's cir-clip. Basically it will "pop" off.
So you will need to hold it from doing so or it can get damaged if it strikes ground. Place axle is a vise to hold axle.
If you want to try mallet method "on car" you will probably need to remove more components to make room for swinging the mallet to smack the cv.
I've done both and removing the axle always works out better.
Once you have the outer cv removed, the boot slides over the axle with a little effort and force. Most cv kits have instructions, but make sure you replace the small parts which were on the axle prior to removal. A metal washer and a plastic washer. They go on very specifically!
Take note of them!
Reinstalling the cv, requires it to be "tapped" back onto the axle with rubber mallet. Then fill the boot with grease, and install metal clips.
Some clips need to go on before the cv.
Then you will need a cv clip plyers! Usually a few $$ at a good parts place. They are needed to tension the metal clips which hold the boot on.
Make sure the clips are tensioned properly, and aligned straight.
You may need to "burp" the boot before tightening the clips. Normally tighten the small inner clip, burp the boot of air, then tighten the inner.
Everything else is reverse order of removal.
One other hint, most outer cv boots "go in pairs"
That is if one side is bad the other is not far behind! Soon after you do the outers the inners seem to go too!
Ideally you want to replace all four, but sometimes the inners will last longer than the outers.
Good idea to also get the repair manual for torque spec's and such.
#4
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to press out the joint, be aware that you have to use a scary amount of force. If I hadn't had a friend there encouraging me, I would have chickened-out. "Keep going" he would say. "Dude, are you sure? I'm going to break something!" I said. "Nah, keep going." And then, *Pop!*, off it came.
I replaced both outers at the same time. It is a nasty, messy job, so you might as well do it all at once (I did skip the inners however).
Good luck,
I replaced both outers at the same time. It is a nasty, messy job, so you might as well do it all at once (I did skip the inners however).
Good luck,
#5
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Get a POS boot from your local auto store. The kind with a split seam to let you place it right over the whole joint. It will only last a couple of years, but quite frankly the joint will fail by then.
The whole axle is pretty reasonable when you get down to your time and the need to do the whole job again.
The whole axle is pretty reasonable when you get down to your time and the need to do the whole job again.
#6
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long enough that it will outlive the CV joint. I've removed the axle, which is a bit more work initially. But repairing the boot/joint on a warm well-lit workbench is a breeze compared to on the floor under the car.
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