Brake setup...Here's what I want to do...
09-29-1999, 07:30 AM
#2
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Better choice...
Go with Powerslot rotors all around (available from Neuspeed or NOPI or Parts America).
Run C-Techs on front for track use and switch to RedBox for the street. I run RedBox on the rears for track and street.
I blew through RedBox pads on the front in one day at the Poconos. I have had RedBox pads on the rear for almost 30,000 miles and 7 track events. There is still about 30% of the pad left.
I switch to RedBox for the street because they produce less dust, don't squeal and work equally well when hot, cold or wet. The C-Techs produce a lot of dust (like stock), squeal like hell, and suck when it is cold out. The C-Techs are horrible in the wet. You have to be on the brakes for a second or two to dry out the pads and warm them up enough to grab. On the track, the C-Tech fronts grab like vice grips and never, EVER fade!!! This setup is by far the best I have seen on the track.
Run C-Techs on front for track use and switch to RedBox for the street. I run RedBox on the rears for track and street.
I blew through RedBox pads on the front in one day at the Poconos. I have had RedBox pads on the rear for almost 30,000 miles and 7 track events. There is still about 30% of the pad left.
I switch to RedBox for the street because they produce less dust, don't squeal and work equally well when hot, cold or wet. The C-Techs produce a lot of dust (like stock), squeal like hell, and suck when it is cold out. The C-Techs are horrible in the wet. You have to be on the brakes for a second or two to dry out the pads and warm them up enough to grab. On the track, the C-Tech fronts grab like vice grips and never, EVER fade!!! This setup is by far the best I have seen on the track.
09-29-1999, 10:15 AM
#4
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Slots v. drilled
Drilled rotors have less swept area (all those holes that help with cooling are just air and pads don't grip air). Cross drilling is to help the rotor stay cool, reducing brakefade. Sloted doesn't reduce swept area much and allows the gas, which builds up between the pad and rotor as heat from the friction burns off pad material, to escape (same with water) helping the pads stay in more direct contact with the rotors. Best case scenario is drilled AND slotted, and significantly larger (counteracts the loss of swept are due to holes, plus as many other benefits), along with larger calipers. BUT such a setup as expensive and WAY more than most of will ever need even on the track. The recomendation for slotted sounds like a good route for street and occasional track use.
Regards,
Rodney
'99 A4 1.8tqms
Regards,
Rodney
'99 A4 1.8tqms
09-29-1999, 10:16 AM
#5
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Slotted: more mass for heat dissipation. Drilled: less mass :) but they roar
Drilled are prone to cracking unless top quality, and even then not 100% immune. They also make a dull roar under braking (not all, the swept hole pattern may be better).
That said, my Powerslot rotors seem to have warped. Brembo drilled rotors are better than Powerslots for the track, but you may not like the soft noise they make on the street. Brembo quality slotted rotors are better for street and driver's schools. Drilled are too extreme for a daily driver street car with occasional track use.
Todd W
That said, my Powerslot rotors seem to have warped. Brembo drilled rotors are better than Powerslots for the track, but you may not like the soft noise they make on the street. Brembo quality slotted rotors are better for street and driver's schools. Drilled are too extreme for a daily driver street car with occasional track use.
Todd W
09-29-1999, 10:43 AM
#6
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Don't you have access to a shop? DIY!
<center><img src="http://onelist.com/files/pas_events/disk.gif"></center><p>Mill 2 parallel grooves on both sides of the disk...
I think a 1/8 ball endmill would work. It'll do the same thing as the slotted disks.
I think a 1/8 ball endmill would work. It'll do the same thing as the slotted disks.