CP

I agree with the rotor suggestion. Anything should be fine considering the mammoth size of your stock rotors. Just get some good pads and you should be good to go.

I'd also HIGHLY recommend Speedbleeders in your calipers. It makes fluid bleeding a quick, one person job. I know you don't like to get your hands dirty Bob, but it's about the easiest thing you can do at the track other than check your lugs. I put a set into each of my ST calipers. With my stock calipers (which I'm currently rebuilding for the winter), I didn't even have to take my wheels off to bleed them (open spoke wheels, one bleeder valve w/in easy reach, and small hands).

The pad deposit issue may have been due to improper bedding, or maybe you didn't get the brakes hot enough to get a good transfer of pad material in your first session or two with the car way back in the spring when everything was still cherry new.

bpp

discussed the speed bleeders before, an excellent idea. I'm replacing the rotors only because I didn't care for the discoloration (blue)and the shallow irregular ridges I now have. I believe if I were to retain the oe rotors I'd have to have someone skim cut the all surfaces maybe .005/.010". I'm not sure at this time how much or what kind of heat stress they've undergone. Additionally, bd s4 went the same route with the pads+oem rotors and wasn't satisfied with the results. Maybe had I done pads prior, I would have prevented the formation of the irregularities. Someone may have that answer for me.

CP

The link is down, but the instructions that came with my Stoptech kit said that you can tell when the rotors are "seasoned" by the slight blue tint they take on. It's perfectly normal.

My street rotors have 20K+ miles on them, and have been used with street and track pads over the last two years. They look like a record with all the grooves on them, not to mention the little cracks all around. Once your pads have had some time to wear down so that they are in 100% contact with the rotots, who cares if the rotor face is flat and smooth? You've still got good pad to rotor contact. It's when you switch from used pads to a new pad (with a flat face) that it takes a little time for the pad to conform to the rotor face, and it's grooves.

At any rate, try getting your rotors turned first if you really don't like the grooves. It only costs @$13.

bpp

It certainly makes allot of sense what you say. I have the Winter to cogitate. ;^)

CP

Good luck with the brakes Bob. Your car is too heavy.

bpp

Never was warned about cogitating. Mom says it was okay to do, so I went ahead and cogitated without any ill effects...my palms never turned colors.