Q about swapping brake pads for track events
05-13-2005, 07:34 AM
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Q about swapping brake pads for track events
during the swap, do you guys do anything to 'scrub' the rotor, like light sandpapering (ostensibly to remove old pad material)?
Note I'm talking about doing this in addition to the bed-in process.
Note I'm talking about doing this in addition to the bed-in process.
05-13-2005, 08:26 AM
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A lot of BMW guys swap pads and rotors at the same time.
It's a lot of work but it's smart. You can mate the right pad to the right rotor and there's no bedding in process necessary.
Don't think it's suitable for Audi guys...Audi rotors are pricier and more time consuming to change out.
Don't think it's suitable for Audi guys...Audi rotors are pricier and more time consuming to change out.
05-13-2005, 12:42 PM
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Huh ??? Whuh ???
If the question is about swapping out street compounds for race compound, then I have nothing to offer.
If you're talking about swapping like-to-like, then I prefer to change one at a time. Scuff in new pads with experienced rotors, scuff in new rotors with experienced pads. Of course, I've also bedded in new pads with new rotors, and I'm still alive.
Rotors - always like to get them hot once and let them cool off, before really hammering on them.
Pads - follow manufacturer's recommendations...but some compounds can be used hard 'from the git-go' (whateverTF a 'git-go' is...?). Hawk Blues, certain Raybestos compounds and some of the newer Ferodo compounds don't mind a '5-corner' break-in period, followed by merciless hammering.
Most people over-think brakes. If you're glazing pads and boiling fluid, you're probably slowing down too much.
As usual, I'm not much help.
If you're talking about swapping like-to-like, then I prefer to change one at a time. Scuff in new pads with experienced rotors, scuff in new rotors with experienced pads. Of course, I've also bedded in new pads with new rotors, and I'm still alive.
Rotors - always like to get them hot once and let them cool off, before really hammering on them.
Pads - follow manufacturer's recommendations...but some compounds can be used hard 'from the git-go' (whateverTF a 'git-go' is...?). Hawk Blues, certain Raybestos compounds and some of the newer Ferodo compounds don't mind a '5-corner' break-in period, followed by merciless hammering.
Most people over-think brakes. If you're glazing pads and boiling fluid, you're probably slowing down too much.
As usual, I'm not much help.
05-13-2005, 04:30 PM
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StopTech has lots of great info on their website...
They recommend using the race pads for a while on the street in their cold, abrasive mode before doing the bedding-in.
I had a real problem one time after I went straight from the street pads to the race pads on my Boxster. Huge vibration, but only during very hard braking. I think it's hard to lay down an even layer of the new pad material when there is still a layer of the old material on the rotors.
I think that a light sanding of the rotors (with garnet paper) before swapping pads could be a good thing to do.<ul><li><a href="http://stoptech.com/whitepapers/bedincontents.htm">StopTech articles on bed-in</a></li></ul>
I had a real problem one time after I went straight from the street pads to the race pads on my Boxster. Huge vibration, but only during very hard braking. I think it's hard to lay down an even layer of the new pad material when there is still a layer of the old material on the rotors.
I think that a light sanding of the rotors (with garnet paper) before swapping pads could be a good thing to do.<ul><li><a href="http://stoptech.com/whitepapers/bedincontents.htm">StopTech articles on bed-in</a></li></ul>
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