Looking to Dyno
04-07-2009, 09:32 AM
#1
Looking to Dyno
Now that the weathers better I want to Dyno car to see if I have any gains from my mods. Was thinking either ESP in Sterling or Dent Sport Garage in Norwood. ESP has the Mustang chassis dynamometer and Dent has a Dyno Dynamics. Any thoughts on which I should use?
04-07-2009, 10:16 AM
#3
read this on dents site:
"In 2007 the Dyno Dynamics® AWD Dynamometer arrived, a fully load-bearing dynomometer. This dyno is known for its ability to simulate realistic car-to-road dynamics, providing accurate numbers. (It is also known as “The Heartbreaker” since its horsepower numbers are a bit lower than the more simple inertial dynos)."
04-07-2009, 10:58 AM
#4
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it was a LOT lower then I expected. But it was the curves that looked wrong.
Overlaid with another dyno I had done, the curves were totally different.
I think I made 90whp. I well modified 16v made like 98whp.
a month later I made 120whp at BrokeDown.
I think the Mustang dyno is just a KILLER on the low power cars.
One guy brought a supercharged VR6 Corrado who made 230whp on another Mustang a week before with only 6psi and made 225whp on THIS Mustang running 10psi. He was really confused.
I prefer Dyno Dynamics dynos actually. They're low reading, but more accurate in my opinion.
My old WRX made 270whp on KTRs DD
I know every dyno is different though. I just didn't like the output on that Mustang. The printouts are kinda crappy too. I normally like to get a CSV file of RPM, HP and TQ and output it onto my own spreadsheets
Overlaid with another dyno I had done, the curves were totally different.
I think I made 90whp. I well modified 16v made like 98whp.
a month later I made 120whp at BrokeDown.
I think the Mustang dyno is just a KILLER on the low power cars.
One guy brought a supercharged VR6 Corrado who made 230whp on another Mustang a week before with only 6psi and made 225whp on THIS Mustang running 10psi. He was really confused.
I prefer Dyno Dynamics dynos actually. They're low reading, but more accurate in my opinion.
My old WRX made 270whp on KTRs DD
I know every dyno is different though. I just didn't like the output on that Mustang. The printouts are kinda crappy too. I normally like to get a CSV file of RPM, HP and TQ and output it onto my own spreadsheets
04-07-2009, 01:42 PM
#5
Seems the best way to go would be if I could compare my results to a mostly stock RS4 done on a Dyno Dynamics, Maybe they will have some numbers from past cars? Or if anyone with say only an exhaust mod wants a free Dyno I would pay the $100
04-08-2009, 04:41 AM
#6
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Where are all you guys?
Ever heard of Dynopack dynos? It's another "brake type" Tried it once and I won't go back to an inertial dyno! lol
04-08-2009, 05:23 AM
#7
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Dynapacks?
the ones that attach to the hubs?
No thanks... my WRX was first tuned on one of those. it made '280hp'.
The operator said "yeah, that's like 350 at the crank" and handed it back to me.
I took it to a dyno dynamics 6 months later and rolled 230whp and the AF ratio was off the chart it was so rich.
Then I took it to KTRs dyno dynamics 2 months later and rolled 223whp.
two hours later and I was rolling 270whp. The car ran better, idled better and got better gas mileage.
I find that the dynapacks load the hubs artificially. and when they aren't done RIGHT, the wrong load gets added when tuning the car... so you tune for this unnaturally high (or low) load on the dyno and when you finally slap the wheels back on, it unwinds down to reality.
Your wheels and tires are a big part of how your power gets put down and how your car drives. Removing the wheels and tires and hooking directly to an artificial load inducer never made sense to me. Especially when that load inducer is either set too high (like you're a heavier car) or too low (like you're a lighter car). I think MOST are set too high because if they were too LOW, you'd run the risk of running lean and popping ****. Run too rich and you're safe, but you make no power or efficiency.
My WRX was basically tuned as if it were towing a 5000lb car up a hill... when you put it's tires on and drove it on a regular road, it was tuned with too much preload and the car chugged and burped and idled like **** and got horrible gas mileage. The tuner told me "That's normal when you're making that kind of power"
He was dead wrong. Aside from the portability of them, I really dislike how they tune.
I know a few other WRX guys who have tuned on a Dynapack and then gone to a Dynodynamics to find that all the work on the dynapack was ****.
I lean pretty heavily to DynoDynamics dynos. I like Dynojets too, but they tend to have some inflated numbers because of their design
The biggest problem with load dynos is that if the operator doesn't set up the load properly, you get artificial results. The Mustangs and the DynoDynamics also deal with this problem. The Dynojets don't, but you can't tune well for partial and off throttle rolling very well. Dynojets are just fine for baselines and results, but not so much tuning.
Around here, I feel that the best operators of dynos for tuning own DynoDynamics.
I've been doing dyno research since 2000 and I've tried almost all of them. I haven't gone to the MAHA and there's another 'hub-style' dyno that is big in Europe that I haven't tried yet either. But, for the most part, I think I've tried nearly every available type of dyno in America.
the ones that attach to the hubs?
No thanks... my WRX was first tuned on one of those. it made '280hp'.
The operator said "yeah, that's like 350 at the crank" and handed it back to me.
I took it to a dyno dynamics 6 months later and rolled 230whp and the AF ratio was off the chart it was so rich.
Then I took it to KTRs dyno dynamics 2 months later and rolled 223whp.
two hours later and I was rolling 270whp. The car ran better, idled better and got better gas mileage.
I find that the dynapacks load the hubs artificially. and when they aren't done RIGHT, the wrong load gets added when tuning the car... so you tune for this unnaturally high (or low) load on the dyno and when you finally slap the wheels back on, it unwinds down to reality.
Your wheels and tires are a big part of how your power gets put down and how your car drives. Removing the wheels and tires and hooking directly to an artificial load inducer never made sense to me. Especially when that load inducer is either set too high (like you're a heavier car) or too low (like you're a lighter car). I think MOST are set too high because if they were too LOW, you'd run the risk of running lean and popping ****. Run too rich and you're safe, but you make no power or efficiency.
My WRX was basically tuned as if it were towing a 5000lb car up a hill... when you put it's tires on and drove it on a regular road, it was tuned with too much preload and the car chugged and burped and idled like **** and got horrible gas mileage. The tuner told me "That's normal when you're making that kind of power"
He was dead wrong. Aside from the portability of them, I really dislike how they tune.
I know a few other WRX guys who have tuned on a Dynapack and then gone to a Dynodynamics to find that all the work on the dynapack was ****.
I lean pretty heavily to DynoDynamics dynos. I like Dynojets too, but they tend to have some inflated numbers because of their design
The biggest problem with load dynos is that if the operator doesn't set up the load properly, you get artificial results. The Mustangs and the DynoDynamics also deal with this problem. The Dynojets don't, but you can't tune well for partial and off throttle rolling very well. Dynojets are just fine for baselines and results, but not so much tuning.
Around here, I feel that the best operators of dynos for tuning own DynoDynamics.
I've been doing dyno research since 2000 and I've tried almost all of them. I haven't gone to the MAHA and there's another 'hub-style' dyno that is big in Europe that I haven't tried yet either. But, for the most part, I think I've tried nearly every available type of dyno in America.
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04-08-2009, 07:43 AM
#8
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I have a completely stock 08 RS4 and would probably be able to meet up.
04-09-2009, 03:27 AM
#9
04-09-2009, 05:25 AM
#10
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there's always a place to latch it down. you sure there's no tow points in the back? I'm sure Audi put some there... they know it's not good to tow a car by the rear control arms.
The only cars I know that are a BITCH to tie down are the Allroads.
The only cars I know that are a BITCH to tie down are the Allroads.