Audi Driving School at Sears Point -- what should I expect?
08-21-2005, 04:26 PM
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Audi Driving School at Sears Point -- what should I expect?
I recently joined the ACNA Golden Gate chapter and am looking forward to signing up for the November driving school. I was wondering if folks here who've attended in the past can tell me what sorts of things I might expect during the weekend at Sears Point.
Do I drive my own car on the track or are cars provided? (It seems like it would make more sense to drive my own.) Is there an instructor in the car with me? How much time is "class" time versus time behind the wheel?
TIA!
Do I drive my own car on the track or are cars provided? (It seems like it would make more sense to drive my own.) Is there an instructor in the car with me? How much time is "class" time versus time behind the wheel?
TIA!
08-21-2005, 05:49 PM
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If it's your first time you will have quite a bit of chalk talk the first day but you also get to do
The three basic exercises. Lane toss, threshold braking and slalom.
You do drive your own car and you will have an instructor with you at all times when on the racetrack.
There are basically four groups. A,B,C and Instructors. C students are the most advanced and iirc can be on track without an Instructor. A&B students must have an instructor and have to attend classroom sessions.
Last time it broke down like this.
7:00-7:45 Track Familiarization
7:45-8:00 Driver's Meeting
8:00-9:30 Classroom
9:30-12:00 Exercises
Then in the afternoon of the first day you are on the racetrack the whole time with the exception of 2 twenty minute classroom sessions.
The second day you have one classroom session and the rest of the time you are on the track.
Really a very good Driver's School.
You do drive your own car and you will have an instructor with you at all times when on the racetrack.
There are basically four groups. A,B,C and Instructors. C students are the most advanced and iirc can be on track without an Instructor. A&B students must have an instructor and have to attend classroom sessions.
Last time it broke down like this.
7:00-7:45 Track Familiarization
7:45-8:00 Driver's Meeting
8:00-9:30 Classroom
9:30-12:00 Exercises
Then in the afternoon of the first day you are on the racetrack the whole time with the exception of 2 twenty minute classroom sessions.
The second day you have one classroom session and the rest of the time you are on the track.
Really a very good Driver's School.
08-21-2005, 08:28 PM
#3
Expect to suck. It's not you specifically. It's switching over to
from your usual daily priorities which may not have much to do with car control at all. It takes a day or two of practice to actually pay 100% attention to the car for a change, instead of other drivers, road conditions, etc. By the time school is over, you'll be amazed at the new techniques you've picked up and now have in your back pocket for those emergencies that might pop up.
Here's a rundown of what to expect or handle ahead of time - some are more advanced than a basic school though, so don't worry about all of them:
Make sure to bring a comfortable helmet with the correct safety rating.
Always bring a torque wrench -- Torque wheel lugs.
Good tire gauge is invaluable since you'll be running more pressure at the track, and tires heat up too.
It doesn't hurt to bring a spare set of front pads if running with street/OEM compounds.
Make sure you have a full tank of gas.
Bring plenty of drinking water and remember to drink often.
A bottle of brake fluid, power steering fluid and engine oil. It is extremely rare that you'll ever need them, but obviously better to have them than miss out on some valuable track time.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before each session:
Check coolant, brake fluid, and engine oil.
If you use Rain-X on your windshield, clean (using alcohol, soap & water, or Windex etc) the area where you'll be sticking any car number. It has a hard time sticking to the glass and can blow off easily if you don't clean the glass.
Empty trunk and glove box, and remove everything from the car that's not tied down. Any we mean EVERYTHING!
Re-torque wheel lugs before every session.
Do a warm up lap every session to bring the motor and tires up to temperature. Don't push the motor to high rpm until water temperature is "normal".
Try to keep your eye on the temperature gauge. If necessary, you can run with the passenger compartment heater on max to add a little capacity to the cooling system or cool the car down a little faster.
Make the last lap of every session a cool down lap, with minimum braking to let air flow cool your red hot rotors.
Park your car on a level spot at the end of the session and do NOT engage the emergency brake. If you clamp the rear brake pads on scorching hot rotors, you could warp the rotors.
After every session, it doesn't hurt to raise hood to let the motor cool without cooking other under-the-hood components.
Remove the plastic center caps from your wheels. The brakes will get hot enough to melt the plastic - if you have plastic covers over the lug nuts -- remove them.
If you do feel you're losing the brakes on the track, either the pedal going soft (boiling brake fluid) or reduced stopping power with a firm pedal (overheated pads), immediately back off. Either run a cool down lap and resume, or run a cool down lap and come in.
If the car is close to overheating, get off the track as soon as possible and drive through the pits or service roads at low rpm to help move air through the radiator until the temps fall to a more normal level.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
For more fun with you Vehicle:
Turn off ESP (AKA ASR, PSM and DSC)-- If you forget, you can overheat the brakes quickly.
You're going to be using maximum braking, try to be smooth both on and off the brakes. Even cars with firm suspensions benefit from smooth transitions to avoid upsetting the balance and reducing brake dive.
Last but not least: The standard auto insurance policy normally does cover you and your car at driving schools, but not at races, timed events, or competitive events. Read the fine print on your policy.
Here's a rundown of what to expect or handle ahead of time - some are more advanced than a basic school though, so don't worry about all of them:
Make sure to bring a comfortable helmet with the correct safety rating.
Always bring a torque wrench -- Torque wheel lugs.
Good tire gauge is invaluable since you'll be running more pressure at the track, and tires heat up too.
It doesn't hurt to bring a spare set of front pads if running with street/OEM compounds.
Make sure you have a full tank of gas.
Bring plenty of drinking water and remember to drink often.
A bottle of brake fluid, power steering fluid and engine oil. It is extremely rare that you'll ever need them, but obviously better to have them than miss out on some valuable track time.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before each session:
Check coolant, brake fluid, and engine oil.
If you use Rain-X on your windshield, clean (using alcohol, soap & water, or Windex etc) the area where you'll be sticking any car number. It has a hard time sticking to the glass and can blow off easily if you don't clean the glass.
Empty trunk and glove box, and remove everything from the car that's not tied down. Any we mean EVERYTHING!
Re-torque wheel lugs before every session.
Do a warm up lap every session to bring the motor and tires up to temperature. Don't push the motor to high rpm until water temperature is "normal".
Try to keep your eye on the temperature gauge. If necessary, you can run with the passenger compartment heater on max to add a little capacity to the cooling system or cool the car down a little faster.
Make the last lap of every session a cool down lap, with minimum braking to let air flow cool your red hot rotors.
Park your car on a level spot at the end of the session and do NOT engage the emergency brake. If you clamp the rear brake pads on scorching hot rotors, you could warp the rotors.
After every session, it doesn't hurt to raise hood to let the motor cool without cooking other under-the-hood components.
Remove the plastic center caps from your wheels. The brakes will get hot enough to melt the plastic - if you have plastic covers over the lug nuts -- remove them.
If you do feel you're losing the brakes on the track, either the pedal going soft (boiling brake fluid) or reduced stopping power with a firm pedal (overheated pads), immediately back off. Either run a cool down lap and resume, or run a cool down lap and come in.
If the car is close to overheating, get off the track as soon as possible and drive through the pits or service roads at low rpm to help move air through the radiator until the temps fall to a more normal level.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
For more fun with you Vehicle:
Turn off ESP (AKA ASR, PSM and DSC)-- If you forget, you can overheat the brakes quickly.
You're going to be using maximum braking, try to be smooth both on and off the brakes. Even cars with firm suspensions benefit from smooth transitions to avoid upsetting the balance and reducing brake dive.
Last but not least: The standard auto insurance policy normally does cover you and your car at driving schools, but not at races, timed events, or competitive events. Read the fine print on your policy.
08-22-2005, 02:44 PM
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As always, your wealth of info knows no bounds! (more)
So, it sounds like my Audi will really be put through the paces, especially if I need to bring <b>brake pads</b> (??) -- is that what you're saying?
I am TOTALLY USELESS when it comes to car maintenance. I can put in gas and oil and washer fluid, and that's about it. Should I even be signing up for this driving course? I really want to, but if I need to do things myself like change brake pads or even tighten lug nuts I will be screwed. :/
Thanks for the excellent info April. And, thanks to you too Jeff Doyle!
I am TOTALLY USELESS when it comes to car maintenance. I can put in gas and oil and washer fluid, and that's about it. Should I even be signing up for this driving course? I really want to, but if I need to do things myself like change brake pads or even tighten lug nuts I will be screwed. :/
Thanks for the excellent info April. And, thanks to you too Jeff Doyle!
08-22-2005, 03:03 PM
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If you're going to drive it like a racecar then you will need pads . . .
If you are going to drive sensibly and well within your limits then there is no need for brake pads.
Checking tire pressures and torquing wheels is highly recommended but there are always plenty of over equipped guys who are more than happy to help a damsel in distress . . . ; )
I guess I'm one of the few who routinely goes to track events on stock brakes and pads and never has a problem. I guess I'm just less agressive and a bit of a realist. It's not a racecar and I have to drive it home.
Many people who are unsure about the condition of their brake pads, fluids etc. will take the car for a quick pre event inspection just to make sure everything is in order.
Checking tire pressures and torquing wheels is highly recommended but there are always plenty of over equipped guys who are more than happy to help a damsel in distress . . . ; )
I guess I'm one of the few who routinely goes to track events on stock brakes and pads and never has a problem. I guess I'm just less agressive and a bit of a realist. It's not a racecar and I have to drive it home.
Many people who are unsure about the condition of their brake pads, fluids etc. will take the car for a quick pre event inspection just to make sure everything is in order.
08-22-2005, 03:22 PM
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Thanks Jeff -- I appreciate the info :)
I'll register for driving school and do my "damsel in distress" routine on the tracks if anything more complicated than adding oil is necessary for my Audi. 
08-22-2005, 03:23 PM
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What to expect
Morning of the first day will be class and exercise time (braking, slalom, etc.)
Afternoon will be more classes and 2 sessions (roughly 25 minutes each) on the track.
Second day should be 4-5 sessions, plus some classroom.
Bring your own car, a helmet if you have one, and there will be an instructor in the car with you at all times. You shouldn't have to change brake pads. But check them before you come to be sure they have plenty left.
November in CA can be wet, so bring some warm wool / cotton clothes. Light shoes, and relatively thin wool socks. Wet cold feet are miserable, but you also need to feel the pedals.
Afternoon will be more classes and 2 sessions (roughly 25 minutes each) on the track.
Second day should be 4-5 sessions, plus some classroom.
Bring your own car, a helmet if you have one, and there will be an instructor in the car with you at all times. You shouldn't have to change brake pads. But check them before you come to be sure they have plenty left.
November in CA can be wet, so bring some warm wool / cotton clothes. Light shoes, and relatively thin wool socks. Wet cold feet are miserable, but you also need to feel the pedals.
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08-22-2005, 03:26 PM
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Can the helmet be a motorcycle helmet?
Or do I need a special driving helmet? If the latter, any suggestions on where I can go to get one?
Thank you!
Thank you!
08-22-2005, 05:57 PM
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It can be. I think the requirement specs are Snell M95, SA95, M2000, and SA2000.
Many people carry extra's like myself and iirc Audi Club does have some hemlets available.
I like to try on a helmet so a motorcycle shop is probably your best bet unless you live nearby Searspoint and can go try one on @ Winecountry Motorsports. Frey Racing which used to be a good place no longer has a showroom.
My personal brain bucket is a Bieffe "Jet Auto" and I think it was $129. Like I am always preaching "it's not a racecar" I don't feel I need an $800 open wheel style helmet for such events.
<img src="http://www.bieffeamerica.com/images/internet/2001auto/Jet%20Auto/Jet%20Auto%20White.jpg250.jpg">
My loaner is a Bell Tourlite SC SA 2000 rated helmet. $99.00
<img src="http://www.thebellstore.com/images/Helmets/TourliteSC/xl/TrltSCPrlWtSld2004.jpg">
If only the finest will do I highly recommend Bill Simpon's Impact Racing Products. Draft helmet, $720
<img src="http://www.impactraceproducts.com/itemimages/draft.jpg"><ul><li><a href="http://www.impactraceproducts.com/default.wws">http://www.impactraceproducts.com/default.wws</a</li></ul>
I like to try on a helmet so a motorcycle shop is probably your best bet unless you live nearby Searspoint and can go try one on @ Winecountry Motorsports. Frey Racing which used to be a good place no longer has a showroom.
My personal brain bucket is a Bieffe "Jet Auto" and I think it was $129. Like I am always preaching "it's not a racecar" I don't feel I need an $800 open wheel style helmet for such events.
<img src="http://www.bieffeamerica.com/images/internet/2001auto/Jet%20Auto/Jet%20Auto%20White.jpg250.jpg">
My loaner is a Bell Tourlite SC SA 2000 rated helmet. $99.00
<img src="http://www.thebellstore.com/images/Helmets/TourliteSC/xl/TrltSCPrlWtSld2004.jpg">
If only the finest will do I highly recommend Bill Simpon's Impact Racing Products. Draft helmet, $720
<img src="http://www.impactraceproducts.com/itemimages/draft.jpg"><ul><li><a href="http://www.impactraceproducts.com/default.wws">http://www.impactraceproducts.com/default.wws</a</li></ul>