Silvr1.8T

There is a boost sensor after the intercooler that will not allow more than 20 psi of boost. Could someone inform me on how this works? Also, maybe some way to bipass it? I am under the impression it sends up to five volts of power or soemthing and once it reaches five it cuts boost, so could I just wire up a "limiter" so it does not go over four volts or somethign.

dingster

I think you wire a resistor into the signal line and a Zener diode in paralle to limit the peak V to 4.7 V. Ask a EE or someone to get you a exact circuit setup.

CMH

yes that is right or you could do it the APR way. Take the sensor apart and change the insides.

BOOSTD

?? our boost sensors are untouched.

WJM

"im sorry that is incorrect. Circle gets the square"

Yippers®

A further example of the kit's elegance I'd say. No need to kludge.

®ob

Will you ever get your facts straight before you post crap?

James R.

first of all there's the variance 5% then there's the noise at low zener currents at the knee, then there's the knee itself...then there's the issue that you've raised the output impedance of the sensor by placing a resistor in series which makes that circuit more prone to pick up spurious noise.

Soo many better ways to do that...but hack away it's par for the course with G-Hack and friends.

Regards,

James R.

EdP

The boost sender is an absolute gauge, and is limited to ~2.3 bar. Remember that atmosphere is 1 bar more or less, so the net limit is 1.3 bar. The output is 0 volts at near vacuum, and 5 volts at 2.3 bar. This is a PHYSICAL limit of the sensor itself, and even playing with maps won't get around it. The options are getting a different sensor that outputs 5V but is scaled differently to accommodate more psi Alternately, you can hack the sensor like you can read about below to change the output range, then mod the maps and routines to accommodate the new range, but this is still not going to work well. The sensor is built of internal components that cannot output voltages that are meaningful once it's outside the unit itself(where the zener/resistor resides)... The sensor is an actual diaphram with a tiny true vacuum cell inside. So you can see, it's not really going to work hacking the final out signal. Also, automotive electronics are to be robust and isloated from spurious RF noise, so a true designed unit is best.

The Viggen boost sensor is good for up to 2 bar ABOVE atmoshere,, and does this at 5volts, so is near perfect, but the form factor is different; an adaptor would need to be made to address the way they are mated to the car. the wiring is near identical, but the pinout is somewhat different.

I did a lot of research, and have a pdf file I made with all the info, including the cad file to make the adaptor. I did this some time ago, but it's just lying around now.

Mike O.

Too much time on somebody's hands ;-]