Hardycard

Hi. The shop changed the “Mechatronic” unit. Was from a donor car also with dual clutch. Since it wasn’t a S5 donor car they had to get FW software programmed at Audi to suit the S5 which then worked perfect. The reprogramming became most expensive item on the final bill.
Good luck.

Hardycard

Good article on it.

https://carpart.com.au/blog/educatio...chatronic-unit

Ali Akl

hi ,
regarding all mentioned issues with audi transmission fails even in law miles is due to mechatronic fail , some stuck selenides mainly or failed seal, i just found a company that dose mechatronic remanufacture depends on the fault will cost 400 EP ,trying to flush the oil and replace the filters wont guarantee the fix if its not working it isnt , dont through your money on replacing parts like circut board unless you do a proper inspection .
nice cars with horrible durability.
wish you all the best.

JamesTL97

I have. I'm taking mine in tomorrow.

Redd

If I may suggest? Spend about $8 and you can get a nice digital voltmeter WITH two USB sockets in it, that you can plug into the center console cigarette lighter socket. The transmission lever blocks line of sight when you are in park but it is easy enough to get around that. Those cheap meters aren't the world's most accurate but should be within 1/10th of a volt, so they are a convenient way to see what the clever Audi charging system is up to.

In theory, a brand new battery is 12.7-12.8 volts (will vary with type and temperature) and you can literally call it dead when it is one volt lower than new. So if it was 12.8 volts and now says 12.3 (after parking overnight, or after a shutdown and two minutes of a load like your headlights) then it is 50% consumed. The dealers claim Audi will misbehave at 12.2 volts, which is lousy engineering since most cars are quite happy with that. After all, the battery is only needed to stat the car, the alternator and charge controller take over after that, and the car "should" idle/cruise at 14.4 volts most of the time, although the alternator will cut back or even shut off on long rides when there is no heavy load, in order to bump up gas mileage just a hair.

But for eight or ten bucks...you can find out very quickly if you are getting BS'd.

Also, if you have Carista or similar software, even on the base AMI models it can enable a built-in battery meter. A crude one that only measures in 10% increments, but still, there's a battery meter hiding in the display, that software can enable.

Barraged

I tried to enable the battery meter, but it doesn’t work. Some forum member said that it is very inaccurate and can’t be enabled.

Redd

Carista just got that option released recently, so I can tell you that the option CAN be enabled, I've done it on an AMI system and it is supposed to be available in the MMI systems as well. Perversely, you have to scroll UP in whatever menu screen it has been added to, when everything else is a scroll DOWN from the default line. With other software, you may not have that option. (Ask the software maker.) Since it only works in 10% increments and a wild assed guess is that means 10% increments of "capacity", another meaningless Audi term....that's why I got the combo USB plug fo the lighter. If I really get motivated, I'll check it against a calibrated meter, but 14.4 at cruising speed tells me at least this one is pretty good out of the box.