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2014 Q5 2.0 - 108k - Burning a quart every 500 miles

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Old 08-17-2020, 06:50 AM
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Default 2014 Q5 2.0 - 108k - Burning a quart every 500 miles

Post explains it. Does this car have the updated PCV? I'm not hearing any noise, but I was thinking I should update the PCV first.
Thanks!
Old 08-18-2020, 06:37 AM
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Try a new PCV first. If that doesn't fix it, and there are no leaks, then I bet it is carbon clogged oil control rings of the pistons. You can try taking the spark plugs out and pouring 3 or 4 ounces of top cylinder solvent (like GM 88861803) into each cylinder, let it sit overnight, add another 3 or 4 ounces, let it sit overnight. Then using something like an oil extractor (Mityvac, hand -pumped vacuum extractor), suck out any remaining liquid in each cylinder, drain and replace the oil, then replace the spark plugs and start the engine. Drive the car for half an hour then drain and replace the oil again, and replace the oil filter. The solvent might be able to clear the deposits on the oil control rings. DO NOT USE a Shop Vac, or any other thing that has an electric motor to suck out the cylinders, as a spark from the vacuum motor can ignite the flammable vapors of the cleaning solvent.
Old 08-18-2020, 06:47 AM
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Would this be the same result as cleaning carbon with the walnut shells?
Old 08-18-2020, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by pschall
Post explains it. Does this car have the updated PCV? I'm not hearing any noise, but I was thinking I should update the PCV first.
Thanks!
Did the 1qt/500 miles oil consumption start suddenly or gradually increase over how much time?
Old 08-18-2020, 11:12 AM
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Walnut cleaning of carbon is for the intake valves, nothing to do with the oil control rings of the pistons. Also, not to be confused with carbon cleaning of the SAI air passages of the 3.0T V6.
Old 08-18-2020, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by S4'ed
Try a new PCV first. If that doesn't fix it, and there are no leaks, then I bet it is carbon clogged oil control rings of the pistons.
+1
Old 08-21-2020, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by S4'ed
Try a new PCV first. If that doesn't fix it, and there are no leaks, then I bet it is carbon clogged oil control rings of the pistons. You can try taking the spark plugs out and pouring 3 or 4 ounces of top cylinder solvent (like GM 88861803) into each cylinder, let it sit overnight, add another 3 or 4 ounces, let it sit overnight. Then using something like an oil extractor (Mityvac, hand -pumped vacuum extractor), suck out any remaining liquid in each cylinder, drain and replace the oil, then replace the spark plugs and start the engine. Drive the car for half an hour then drain and replace the oil again, and replace the oil filter. The solvent might be able to clear the deposits on the oil control rings. DO NOT USE a Shop Vac, or any other thing that has an electric motor to suck out the cylinders, as a spark from the vacuum motor can ignite the flammable vapors of the cleaning solvent.
S4'd so I'm on day two of soaking. Everyone I talk to is saying I should be putting this in when the engine is warm. Others are saying induct directly to motor. I have enough left for another 3 ounces for each cylinder. Do another overnight soak and suck out tomorrow?
Old 08-21-2020, 02:18 PM
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Doing a third day of soak can only help. The other suggestions are fine, try them if this cold-soak method doesn't work. I don't think inducting the solvent into a running engine does anything for ring deposits, it might help with piston top and combustion chamber deposits, but this method is risky, pouring too much solvent in can hydro-lock the engine, and bend a rod.

It is critical that you change the oil, and then again the oil and filter, after the cleaning, as lots of this solvent will be in the oilpan, and it is not a good lubricant!
Old 08-21-2020, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by S4'ed
Doing a third day of soak can only help. The other suggestions are fine, try them if this cold-soak method doesn't work. I don't think inducting the solvent into a running engine does anything for ring deposits, it might help with piston top and combustion chamber deposits, but this method is risky, pouring too much solvent in can hydro-lock the engine, and bend a rod.

It is critical that you change the oil, and then again the oil and filter, after the cleaning, as lots of this solvent will be in the oilpan, and it is not a good lubricant!
Can I get away with using my oil extractor from the dipstick or do I need to drain from plug? With fluid weight, I figure this cleaner will be in the top of the pan.
Old 08-22-2020, 07:58 AM
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I don't specifically know on the 2014 2.0 but on many vehicles that come without a dipstick the tube goes to the bottom of the pan which allows you to extract almost all the oil through the tube. You would have a pretty good idea by checking how much you get in the reservoir of the extractor. I'm guessing you already know the 2.0 had issues with the rings that led to excessive oil consumption. Hope that's not your issue as there's no cheap fix.


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