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2015 Q5 Timing chain Fail

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Old 09-07-2020, 06:00 PM
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Cool, no problem, it really doesn't matter for you at this point if it's original or not I guess. I was more asking as a data point and for my own curiosity. In theory doing longer interval oil changes will exacerbate and accelerate the problem both with the tensioner but also with timing chain "stretch". Please report back later once you check your phase position, again just for my own curiosity but you would appear to be in pretty good shape for now. Like you said, who knows, could have been a ton of highway miles or various other factors.

I have the 2014 and bought my car CPO from Audi at 45K miles and had the tensioner done at 78K miles a few weeks ago. Other than the timing, the car has had no issues. Several of the timing parts have been upgraded, some several times, including the cam bridge, tensioner, chains, etc so it's also possible your 2015 has newer parts as well being a year newer than mine.

The moral of all this timing stuff is just to keep an eye on it periodically, exactly like you are doing.
Old 09-07-2020, 06:09 PM
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Also, last thing, look at post #23 from Bob Petruska in the thread I provided. However you should still know that this is just rough guidance and there is no clear hard and fast rule. For example his last sentence says he has seen posts claiming -5 degrees with only 2 notches of tensioner extension (which doesn't seem believable unless there was a problem with the cam itself but my only point is just that this is a gray area and judgement is required).

These are Bob's words from the post:
"The only definitive method (by the book) is to remove a plug and look at the tensioner. You should replace the chain if:
- old style tensioner is extended more than 4 notches (replace the tensioner as well)
- new style tensioner (some 2012's, 2013+) is extended more than 6 notches

If you still want to monitor with VCDS, the measuring block 93, field "Phase Position Bank 1 Intake" shows the value in degrees. There is no guidance which value range is 'safe'. Some statistical data collected from several automotive forums suggests the following:
- Green zone: newly installed chains and low-mileage cars 0 to -2 deg.
- Yellow zone: -2 to -4 deg. Some sources suggest to be alert even if the value is below -3 deg. and monitor the value almost as often as check your oil level
- Red zone: -4 deg and more. Be ready to replace the chain. Some people complain about chain noise at these levels, some say it is quiet. Cars are driven with the value from -4 to -6 deg, but this is a lottery.

From the other hand, on forums I've seen reports that the value was measured -5 deg, but the tensioner was extended only by two notches."

Last edited by silver_tt; 09-07-2020 at 06:16 PM.
Old 09-25-2020, 07:54 PM
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VCDS read -3.16. Below are the pictures I could get. Can someone help me verify my position. Doesn't look good.

2013 118,500mi.



Old 09-26-2020, 02:51 AM
  #34  
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What specifically doesn't look good to you? It's not the best picture but it works......and it looks OK to me, similar to acarpenters but you might be another notch out or so. Is that the original timing setup on your 2013 118,500mi? How much do you know about the service history? My comment to you would be similar to what I told acarpenter; if that's your original tensioner it's in very good condition for that mileage.

It would be interesting to know what acarpenter's VCDS reading was to go with his picture. Your reading at -3.16 is fine IMHO but I would keep an eye on it periodically or at each oil change at minimum.
Old 09-26-2020, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by silver_tt
What specifically doesn't look good to you? It's not the best picture but it works......and it looks OK to me, similar to acarpenters but you might be another notch out or so. Is that the original timing setup on your 2013 118,500mi? How much do you know about the service history? My comment to you would be similar to what I told acarpenter; if that's your original tensioner it's in very good condition for that mileage.

It would be interesting to know what acarpenter's VCDS reading was to go with his picture. Your reading at -3.16 is fine IMHO but I would keep an eye on it periodically or at each oil change at minimum.
Thanks. I appreciate any feedback. I recall somewhere it was stated that 6 or more notches is bad...it looks like I’m 5-7.

I'm the original owner and that is the original tensioner. I service it myself every 10k miles. The Q5 is 80/20 highway/city mileage. I’ll be getting my third set of tires next month.


Old 09-26-2020, 12:45 PM
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The notches you are referring to are typically talking about notches out of the housing -- from your picture looks like you are at 3.

Great info that you are original owner and it's original. I'm also surprised since you do such long oil changes at 10k miles. My car is a year newer (a 2014) and at 78K miles the tensioner was extended much more than yours. You can see mine in post #23.

Last edited by silver_tt; 09-26-2020 at 12:49 PM.
Old 09-29-2020, 08:10 AM
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Hi Everyone,

I have a 2014 Q5 2.0T that I recently purchased from my brother in law. Under his ownership the timing chain skipped a tooth on the cam which caused the car to start very hard and have reduced power. Luckily, he brought it in to the dealership and they verified that the valves did not make contact with the pistons. They replaced the tensioner, guides, chain, and other required bits and the car is back up and running. I have a parts list at home that I will reference and post that provides the part numbers. Since the repair was performed recently I am hoping the issue has been addressed with update parts. Like I said I just purchased the car and it now has 75k miles. I was wanting to get the 3.0t given the apparently better reliability. That said, the main issue with the 2.0t is the timing chain and oil consumption. The timing chain has been addressed and he has never experienced any oil consumption issues so I picked it up from him.
Old 09-29-2020, 08:15 AM
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I have the exact same car as you, a 2014 Q5 2.0T and we are sitting at almost the exact same mileage.

I just did the timing a couple of months ago at 78K miles. Never skipped time but saw the tensioner was way out and my phase position was way off in VCDS. Other than this there was no indication of any problem.

I posted the complete parts list in another thread. The dealer will be about twice as expensive but they are more likely to do the job correctly -- I have seen several people posting parts lists that are incomplete.

I don't know what your oil change intervals are but I would recommend 5K. Also the new parts that were installed in your car are definitely updated from what originally came in it.

I also have zero oil consumption. The 2014 was a transition year so depending on when your car was assembled you may have the gen3 pistons/rings (my car does).
Old 09-29-2020, 08:18 AM
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Here's the parts list:

$127.65 06K-109-158-BE TIMING CHAIN
$78.20 06K-109-467-K TENSIONER
$0.22 N-910-967-02 BOLT (15 QUANTITY)
$220.80 06K-109-210-AF TIMING CASE
$1.61 WHT-001-760 SCREW
$11.41 06H-103-483-C GASKET
$7.91 06H-103-483-D GASKET
$0.49 N-105-724-03 SCREW
$2.12 WHT-007-212-B SEAL RING
$0.79 WHT-003-463 SEAL RING
$8.76 06J-115-403-Q OIL FILTER
$0.54 G-052-167-S0 SHOP540S ENGIN (8 QUANTITY)
$7.19 D-176-501-A1A SEALANT 1/
$15.76 D-176-501-A1 SEALANT
$16.10 06K-109-469-N RAIL
$24.38 06H-109-509-Q RAIL
$15.30 6K-109-469-M RAIL
$127.65 06K-109-158-BS TIMING CHAIN
$16.45 06H-109-469-AQ RAIL
$11.96 06H-109-509-P RAIL
$16.68 06H-109-469-AH RAIL
$75.90 06H-109-467-AR TENSIONER


While you're in there doing this job it's also an excellent time to consider doing other things like the water pump or serpentine belt.
Old 09-29-2020, 08:33 AM
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Thanks SilverTT. I do know that the repair my 2014 had was only the one of the timing chains and tensioners. It was the tensioner that ended in "K". Is the other chain and tensioner known to fail, or did you do them both as cheap insurance?


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