NABS4

I'm a proponent of early oil changes for new vehicles, so at 4k km I decided to change the oil in my 3.0.

As with the other engines, the front under-body panel needs to be removed (9 x T25 screws along the front, 3 x Philips head screws on each side just forward on the front tire, 3 x Philips head screws (1/2 turn to loosen and they stay with the panel) at the back of the panel - take these 3 out last). Once the fasteners are removed, slide the panel towards the rear and it's out.

The drain plug is a T40, and it has an integral washer (no need to be replaced).

Unlike the 2.0T, there is no need to remove the engine cover to access the oil filter. The top of the canister can be removed with a 36 mm socket.

Since the drain plug is on the bottom of the oil pan, there is no way not to get your hands dirty. Wear latex/rubber gloves.

Some people change the oil without lifting the car, but I can't see that being very easy, so I recommend ramps or a slight lift.

HZ60

Thanks for the info. The drain plug on my 2011 took a 6mm hex, I'll have to get a T40, good to know beforehand. I'm also a proponent of early changes, it's cheap insurance IMO. Did it take 7.2 qts as stated in the manual or the 9.0qts listed on the website specs? Did you get a dipstick for the 3.0 and if so was it the same as the one for the 3.2 (06E-116-611-H)? I asked my SA about a month ago and he still hasn't found that info. The parts guy did confirm that the filter is the same as the 3.2 (06E-115-562A)
TIA

NABS4

Supposedly the capacity is 6.8L and I put in 6.5L (had a half bottle sitting around the garage). It shows 7/8th full on the MMI, so I'm not going to sweat the last 2-300 mL. 7.2 qt seems to be it.

I didn't get a dipstick. In my experience the MMI is pretty accurate.

FWIW the MMI still read full after 4k km, so it looks like very little consumption.

Parsec

For those who change their own oil, I recommend installing one of these during your first oil change:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-Q5-Qua...l_Drain_Valve/

NABS4

I like the idea, but I question if it would work in our application given the drain is at the bottom of the pan and I doubt there would be enough clearance btw the valve and the underbody panel.

HZ60

Great, thanks! The MMI is very accurate when compared with the dipstick. I'm still working through some old school electronics trust issues though so I'll be getting another dipstick as soon as I find the right part number. I had 0 oil consumption with my 3.2l after 22k miles and don't expect any with the 3.0T
Thanks Again,

HZ60

Hello again NABS4,

I got the 3/8" drive T40 to remove the plug and did my first oil change a while ago. I used a torque wrench to re-install. It felt a little loose, especially going back in, but I chalked that up to a cheap socket. Today I changed the oil again after a long road trip. When I tried to remove the plug, T-40 totally stripped it. Oh sh** and a few other expletives later I got the 6mm hex I had from my 3.2. Luckily, the T-40 has a slight taper so it only took out the top part of the insert and there was enough meat left (barely) for the 6mm to fit and grab. Next move was going to be vise grips and a prayer. The T40 at first seemed like the right fit but it is definitely not. Maybe they use that plug in Canada? I got 2 new plugs from the dealer and they are 6mm hex. I've attached photos of a new plug and what my old one looked like after the near miss disaster. I suggest people who change oil on a 3.0T look very closely before deciding which tool to use. There may be different styles? You have been warned!

phibe1

Will this work for a '13 2.0t as well? Does anybody know?

NewtsA4

Fumoto has a new short nipple model (hook up 3/8" hose to drain directly to the disposal container) that should work nicely. I have had used Fumoto valves for years and they work great.

MP4.2+6.0

Wouldn't mount right for vertical drain Audi's, let alone either sheering it off (and then no more engine and no warranty repair insurance claim at that point), or even on a "better" bad day bending pan upward from a high curb or other strike. Having changed pans three times over the life of about 10 various Audi's out to around 200K miles, it happens. Not worth it bigger picture to me. Frankly, small threaded brass nipple like that is likely a shear scenario and oil loss over a few miles and minutes. Complete disaster if it happens, more so for a spouse or kid not knowing what's there either.

Concept of these drains is always interesting, but if it even fits correctly I would tend to defer until post warranty if at all. In a weird way, it can raise questions about maintenance, even if it's well intended more frequent changes. And as a practical matter, on all Audi's I have owned since the belly pan (mid 90's origination), pulling and replacing that is the majority of the hassle--especially in a home garage environment without a real lift. Next, it's the filter location on some if higher up and buried, and now the faux-eco internal filter cartridge that is much messier and solvent intensive than the spin ons. I guess that's the 3.2 and 3.0T newer style set up [I deal w/ old 2.8 V6, the 4.2 and the W12]. Amount of oil drain mess at the plug and once or twice hand wipe w/ a paper towel now seems the much lesser than with changing out the internal element on the plastic outer shell. Blessing in disguise on 2.0T's if they still have the well proven metal spin on.