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I'm a proponent of early oil changes for new vehicles, so at 4k km I decided to change the oil in my 3.0.
As with the other engines, the front under-body panel needs to be removed (9 x T25 screws along the front, 3 x Philips head screws on each side just forward on the front tire, 3 x Philips head screws (1/2 turn to loosen and they stay with the panel) at the back of the panel - take these 3 out last). Once the fasteners are removed, slide the panel towards the rear and it's out.
The drain plug is a T40, and it has an integral washer (no need to be replaced).
Unlike the 2.0T, there is no need to remove the engine cover to access the oil filter. The top of the canister can be removed with a 36 mm socket.
Since the drain plug is on the bottom of the oil pan, there is no way not to get your hands dirty. Wear latex/rubber gloves.
Some people change the oil without lifting the car, but I can't see that being very easy, so I recommend ramps or a slight lift.
It seems there is in fact a removable crush washer on the drain plug. I changed oil again today after another road trip, West Coast this time. The washer had previously been stuck to the pan with the gloss black paint they used so it looked like part of it. Today, the paint let go and the washer came off with the plug. It was positioned with the split facing down towards the head of the plug and the smooth side up against the pan. I had a few new washers that came with the filters so I installed a new one. I guess using the old one a couple of times didn't hurt, it never leaked. Here it is.
Guys - I purchase one of those Oil Extractors - worked great pulling the oil up through the dipstick tube of my A4.. Will be using the unit it in a few months on the Q5. With the filters on the top and this little gem to suck the oil I can literally be completed in 15 minutes with no spills, ramps, scraped knuckles, stripped drain plugs, dirty driveway ......
Great, thanks! The MMI is very accurate when compared with the dipstick. I'm still working through some old school electronics trust issues though so I'll be getting another dipstick as soon as I find the right part number. I had 0 oil consumption with my 3.2l after 22k miles and don't expect any with the 3.0T
Thanks Again,
Early Q5s had problems reading the oil level with the MMI and some were very wrong
I'm a proponent of early oil changes for new vehicles, so at 4k km I decided to change the oil in my 3.0.
As with the other engines, the front under-body panel needs to be removed (9 x T25 screws along the front, 3 x Philips head screws on each side just forward on the front tire, 3 x Philips head screws (1/2 turn to loosen and they stay with the panel) at the back of the panel - take these 3 out last). Once the fasteners are removed, slide the panel towards the rear and it's out.
The drain plug is a T40, and it has an integral washer (no need to be replaced).
Unlike the 2.0T, there is no need to remove the engine cover to access the oil filter. The top of the canister can be removed with a 36 mm socket.
Since the drain plug is on the bottom of the oil pan, there is no way not to get your hands dirty. Wear latex/rubber gloves.
Some people change the oil without lifting the car, but I can't see that being very easy, so I recommend ramps or a slight lift.
I recently purchased a low mileage a6 and coming from the American vehicle market it is a learning curve. Nonetheless, this post helped considerably. I hear all this talk of oil removal from pumping out and personally I have heartburn with this (feedback encouraged on this point). My concern lies in the specs for torquing etc. I removed the front belly pan to expose what was believed to be the oil pan (sensor on bottom) but upon attempt to loosen the plug there was much resistance. 1). Wanted to ensure I was on the right locate 2) that the plug and filter (36mm) do not require a torque spec. May seem like a odd question, but just want to be right the first time, too old to learn from mistakes. Any thoughts would help considerably. Thanks in advance.
Guys - I purchase one of those Oil Extractors - worked great pulling the oil up through the dipstick tube of my A4.. Will be using the unit it in a few months on the Q5. With the filters on the top and this little gem to suck the oil I can literally be completed in 15 minutes with no spills, ramps, scraped knuckles, stripped drain plugs, dirty driveway ......
How much does the pump run? What are your thoughts on anything that may have ran out of the low point opposed to pumping and potentially leaving debri within. Just curious.
I recently purchased a low mileage a6 and coming from the American vehicle market it is a learning curve. Nonetheless, this post helped considerably. I hear all this talk of oil removal from pumping out and personally I have heartburn with this (feedback encouraged on this point). My concern lies in the specs for torquing etc. I removed the front belly pan to expose what was believed to be the oil pan (sensor on bottom) but upon attempt to loosen the plug there was much resistance. 1). Wanted to ensure I was on the right locate 2) that the plug and filter (36mm) do not require a torque spec. May seem like a odd question, but just want to be right the first time, too old to learn from mistakes. Any thoughts would help considerably. Thanks in advance.
There are torque specs for the drain plug and filter housing cover. Also, there is a check valve assembly in the bottom of the filter housing that prevents the oil from draining out of the canister. If you loosen the filter cap all the way while the oil is draining, the check valve releases and the canister will drain. I leave the old filter in place while the oil drains so there is very little mess when I remove it. I change the crush washer on the drain plug each time and install a new plug every 3-4 changes. Here's a pic of the pan and plug and a torque chart. Have Fun!
There are torque specs for the drain plug and filter housing cover. Also, there is a check valve assembly in the bottom of the filter housing that prevents the oil from draining out of the canister. If you loosen the filter cap all the way while the oil is draining, the check valve releases and the canister will drain. I leave the old filter in place while the oil drains so there is very little mess when I remove it. I change the crush washer on the drain plug each time and install a new plug every 3-4 changes. Here's a pic of the pan and plug and a torque chart. Have Fun!
09-15-2013, 03:38 PM
