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Auxiliary Heater Recall?

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Old 12-03-2017, 03:57 PM
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How did you get Battery Level on your MMI?? Is it an adaptation?
Old 12-03-2017, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Barraged
How did you get Battery Level on your MMI?? Is it an adaptation?
yes it is. I enabled it with VCDS.​​​​​​​
Old 12-03-2017, 04:57 PM
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Raises hand...I did in fact get the notice Saturday.
Old 12-03-2017, 05:02 PM
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Default vacuum tubes....

Originally Posted by MurrayA4
Redd Short off leaving my cosy fireside seat and glass of wine to go outside in the cold to check, I'm positive I have a setting in my MMI 3G that gives me control over this gizmo.Could be verboten with the AMI but I dont know.
Ah for the days of vacuum tubes !
lmao I remember them back in the day. Had to deal with them whilst in the USAF repairing airborne nav radar sets on KC-135 and B-52C, D and G models. Yup I remember it like it was yesterday.
Old 12-03-2017, 05:04 PM
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Yep- to disable the aux heater, go into car settings via mmi and select the AC option (mines a 2014, could be slightly different for other years)
Old 12-03-2017, 09:11 PM
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Here is the root cause of the issue......

The connector supplier replaced the tin/silver composition with tin only.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/201...7V622-6277.PDF

Here is the required disassembly of the dash sections. Looks like a nightmare for the techs to do a good job, lots of room for screw-ups! I can see quite a few dashes being ripped apart a second time to get the vent door motors, linkages, connectors, etc. functioning correctly again. There are 217K vehicles in the recall and I will let them practice on the first 200K before mine. This disassembly greatly affects anyone who installed the popular aftermarket rear view camera system posted in this forum.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/201...7V622-2176.pdf

In fact, I will most likely skip the recall, just permanetly turn off the AUX heater in the MMI at some point. My 2014 Q5 has only 12k miles of run time in 4.5 years so the heater grid should last another 4-5 more years before degradation. I will most likely not have my Q5 too much longer.

Last edited by Bob Petruska; 12-03-2017 at 10:34 PM.
Old 12-05-2017, 09:01 AM
  #37  
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Got my letter yesterday. Kinda edited by the ransom note school of communication. It mentions there IS NO FIX at this time, and that owners should use the MMI functions to turn off the heater in the interim. And, oh, on the back of the second page it also tells AMI owners where to find a similar function. I had to look three times before I caught on to that one.

No fix...Gee, maybe I should show Fritz a Molex kit, and what a pigtail can do? Or a pin-replacement tool?

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Old 12-05-2017, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Redd
Got my letter yesterday. Kinda edited by the ransom note school of communication. It mentions there IS NO FIX at this time, and that owners should use the MMI functions to turn off the heater in the interim. And, oh, on the back of the second page it also tells AMI owners where to find a similar function. I had to look three times before I caught on to that one.

No fix...Gee, maybe I should show Fritz a Molex kit, and what a pigtail can do? Or a pin-replacement tool?

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You sound like you didn't look at my post above. There is a FIX, dealers have repair parts as of Nov 28th. The first Q5's that will be repaired are the ones that didn't have the first heater recoding done. These owners are more are risk of melted wiring. This tell me that the past recoding limited the heating operation by reducing allowable current flow, or sensed higher voltage drop across the grid and turned off the system. The second link shows the complete repair/replacement procedure (36 pages), which I'm not having done as I like my dash to be rattle free and have everything work as it should without busted off plastic clips, lost screws, vent doors functioning correctly, no evap or heater core leaks. Plus anyone, as I have, that did the 3rd party rear camera update will need to uninstall the wiring harnesses, the control module, etc. as it is all in that grid area, behind the glove box, tied into the end panel fuses. The tech needs these gone, for him to remove the glove box. He isn't going to play with aftermarket stuff. Get the part where they tell the tech to use silicone seal if heater box doesn't seal right or the groove is damaged. They will just reassemble without the silicone seal.

The problem is the connector that failed is part of the grid. This is soldered on. Would you want the tech to go all the way to the grid removal point and just try to do his best with corroded connectors to solder replacements. The chances of a good solder joint where there is obviously bad corrosion is nil. He really would need to remove the grid to perform a decent soldering attempt, so why not just replace the grid with a new one.

There are 300 US dealerships, 217K affected vehicles, 700/800 per dealership, so it will take each dealership about 1 year to repair all cars if one tech works on it full time.

They really should hammer the stupid grid supplier that decided on his own to change the metal composition. That is a total no-no in the automotive world. I worked there.........

Last edited by Bob Petruska; 12-05-2017 at 10:19 AM.
Old 12-05-2017, 10:16 AM
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Bob-
I read your post, I just didn't go exploring the PDFs. Because I prefer to keep a full version of Adobe Acrobat and not throw it out and pay monthly for the "new" subscription model, WIn10 locks PDFs out of my browser, so I have to dl them and then first fire up Acrobat to read them. And then clear out the dl files. All a PITA. So, no, I didn't go chase the whole procedure.

What you are saying would apply only to those vehicles where there already is corrosion. In that case, there in apparently indeed a simple fix, replace the damned grid. If that's "simple but costly" because Audi buried the part...hey, not my circus, not my monkey. (Old Polish proverb.) For those where there IS no corrosion, adding a pigtail would ensure it didn't come, and keep the cost down.

Or they could do it the easy way. You know, how much less would I have paid for a similar car without a heater? What's that, a VW that's 5K cheaper? OK, since bundling is fair game (can't get a nav system without a whole MMI upgrade, right? can't get a power liftgate without a Premium of better, right?) then let's play the bundling game. Disable the heater, permanently, and just pay me back the difference in models.(G)

Obviously that's ludicrous and not in the Tesla sports mode way. But there ARE fixes out there, apparently the only real big issue if that Audi's profit statement is hurting so badly from Dieselgate that they really really don't want to vote on one.

Whether it would be cost-effective (and legal) to take the old grids out, overnight them to a "remanufacturing center" in ShengZhou, and then use them as the bulk of the repair supply, is a whole other question. Again, "Not my circus, not my monkey". As the customer, I don't think there's anything terribly unfair about saying "Takee, fixee!" on this one.
Old 12-05-2017, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Redd
Bob-
I read your post, I just didn't go exploring the PDFs. Because I prefer to keep a full version of Adobe Acrobat and not throw it out and pay monthly for the "new" subscription model, WIn10 locks PDFs out of my browser, so I have to dl them and then first fire up Acrobat to read them. And then clear out the dl files. All a PITA. So, no, I didn't go chase the whole procedure.

What you are saying would apply only to those vehicles where there already is corrosion. In that case, there in apparently indeed a simple fix, replace the damned grid. If that's "simple but costly" because Audi buried the part...hey, not my circus, not my monkey. (Old Polish proverb.) For those where there IS no corrosion, adding a pigtail would ensure it didn't come, and keep the cost down.

Or they could do it the easy way. You know, how much less would I have paid for a similar car without a heater? What's that, a VW that's 5K cheaper? OK, since bundling is fair game (can't get a nav system without a whole MMI upgrade, right? can't get a power liftgate without a Premium of better, right?) then let's play the bundling game. Disable the heater, permanently, and just pay me back the difference in models.(G)

Obviously that's ludicrous and not in the Tesla sports mode way. But there ARE fixes out there, apparently the only real big issue if that Audi's profit statement is hurting so badly from Dieselgate that they really really don't want to vote on one.

Whether it would be cost-effective (and legal) to take the old grids out, overnight them to a "remanufacturing center" in ShengZhou, and then use them as the bulk of the repair supply, is a whole other question. Again, "Not my circus, not my monkey". As the customer, I don't think there's anything terribly unfair about saying "Takee, fixee!" on this one.
1. I don't understand your use of a pigtail. The problem connector pins are physically part of the grid panel. The grid panel removal is the very last part of the repair procedure. So where does the pigtail repair come in.

2. All 217K vehicles will have "new" grids put in. They all have some sort of corrosion. Even without the corrosion problem these grids have been known to die many years ago in Audi/VW cars, they just degrade over time. Using repaired "used" grid panels would mean that you could get one that may have been used a few times a day in cold country and ready to die.

3. The Gen2 Q5's have no electrical heating grid that I know of. That electrical grid uses 50+ amps at times which loads down the alternator, which loads down the engine, which decreases fuel economy. Audi went to a new fast heat micro channel system where they heat water quickly from the hot spots in the engine, turbo, etc. and route it to the passenger compartment heater core This does the same as the electrical supplemental heater grid.

4. I run both the full version of Adobe Acrobat and Adobe Acrobat Reader in Win 10. I set windows to launch the Acrobat Reader when a PDF link is selected, and you can configure the reader to launch as a stand alone app outside of the browser. When you close the Reader app it brings you back to the browser.

5. You should read the PDF where it states that the Q5 battery should be disconnected with the ignition in the ON position or you can blow certain modules. This is a new on for me and would have never done that when replacing a battery.


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