Mark P

We've previously discussed here how most people who add aftermarket hitches are much lower than the OEM hitch.

For the OEM hitch, what have people found for a drop that works for good typical trailer use?

I'll likely just go with one of the 2" drop (or 1/2" raise when installed "upside down") if no other suggestion otherwise. I'd guess that people with aftermaket hitch that is lower may be using the raised receiver.

Photo for reference

KEV035.jpg?t=1260747716

MP4.2+6.0

My net is to get the trailer frame rails approx. flat/level. But that in turn depends on how big the trailer wheels are, how the trailer suspension is set up, whether the brake slave coupler (if any) is bolted/welded on top of the front of the trailer frame member or integrated in line with it, etc. Thus, a simple unbraked single jet ski trailer w/ relatively small tires and lightweight frame would probably be a different drop than my 16' runabout braked trailer with midesized wheels and a beefier 3" frame. Thus, optimum ball drop can (and does) also vary w/ the same tow vehicle. If you know what you are towing, chime in w/ that. If just a generic be-prepared type purchase, I would at least focus on the general type of trailer likely to be involved. The bolt up nature of the trailer brake coupling itself can be either 2 or 3" (or more) of drop/rise depending on trailer frame rail sizing. Similarly, any specific replies here need to be conditioned on how their trailer set up (height wise at the coupling) compares to your target set up.

Have yet to tow on Q5, but probably the 2" drop one is about the max (on a factory hitch) that makes sense to me w/ my 16' boat--single axle galvanized trailer, 13" trailer tires, basic leaf spring set up mounted under 3" trailer frame. I use the rubber buffered type mount (with a standard ball) rather than the steel only ones, and the one I use is (was?) available only w/ minimal (approx. 1" net) drop. That type helps reduce the driver fatigue and the slight forward-back up-down oscillation you can feel w/ steel on steel basic set ups and no air ride for the suspension. With the minvans I turn it upside down for a bit more height; w/ the Q5 I will probably put it in the "normal" position.

Mark P

Thanks, yeah I don't own a trailer, so I'm just thinking in general if I buy one what should I aim for. I like that non-welded one I posted separately which has a 2" drop so I'll likely do that - puts the tongue inline with the hitch itself.

Is this the rubber style you refer to?

video:
http://images.etrailer.com/Merchant2...s-AMSCV-6.webm

Here's the 2" drop one on their site:
http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/...all/AMSC2.html

MP4.2+6.0

The one in the video is an example. From a couple annual multi hundred mile towing trips each way w/ unbuffered ones versus the buffered ones like that, it makes a difference to the driver and even the general sympathetic motion in the tow vehicle experienced by all passengers. The one I use actually is buffered toward the ball mount end (rather than the box end), but it's at my second home right now w/ the boat and I don't recall the brand. I always leave my hitch stuff w/ the trailer (location wise) in case some other tow vehicle is used w/ the boat instead.

If you are just buying generically, using broad categories: If you get a 2" drop that would likely cover many scenarios. For example, a single jet ski on a small unbraked trailer and small wheels would likely be a good fit with a 2" drop. Might be a bit more given Q5's ride height w/ factory hitch, but probably a decent first approx. On the other hand, if it's a more substantial trailer--braked, 3"+ rails, mid sized (13/14") tires, those could work a bit better with the minimal 1" drop ones, and then you can just flip it up or down to vary it 2" for fine tuning (instead of at least twice that like w/ the 2" drop/rise ones). In particular, if the trailer slave brake coupling is on top of the front tongue related rail--as is common--by itself that raises the point where the trailer wants to meet up with the tow vehicle ball by 3". Spelling it out since you have to apply this to your own likely case, that assumes a 3" trailer frame set up that might be found in the 2-3000 pound type class (and that commonly will in fact be braked, and many/most states require it by those weights). Over the years I have ended up w/ both of these drops FWIW--the one fine tuned to my boat trailer and primary tow vehicle stays w/ the boat, and my other basic one stays at home as a back up in case a separate towing need ever arose.

kleinbus

It's depended on your trailer and I had few different drops to help with the trailers.

The 2" drop upside down was the one I mostly used





to keep the trailers level

Mark P

I don't believe that's a 2". I think 3.5". 2" would have the drop even with bottom of hitch

DennisMitchell

Just thinking about you braking your trailer with the hybrid. Talk about potential energy recovery... Hopefully the hybrid batteries will manage to take advantage of all the available kinetic energy when you brake.

Dennis

kleinbus

Yep you are spot on...

antirich

I run a 3.5" (i think) aluminum drop on mine, but then again, my trailer is very low.

The overall goal is to make the trailer as level as possible. The amount of drop (or lift) really depends on the trailer. This is why you see adjustable hitches on large trucks that tow different trailers.

larryV

Depends on the trailer. In some cases, you might actually need a rise and instead of a drop. You want it level and once you load the hitch, the rear suspension will sag and that will be a factor too. Also, you'll be able to use the drop or rise to fine tune the tongue weight to some degree. You'll want enough tongue weight to minimize sway but not exceed the max tongue weight rating either.

I have an adjustable hitch with a swappable ball. I use that to dial in the desired drop or rise with the appropriate trailer load then use the appropriate fixed rise/drop hitch and ball if needed. Or I just stick with the adjustable one, though it's quite bulky.