How to wire an aftermarket sub/amp with B&O?
#1
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Can someone direct me on how to wire an aftermarket sub/amp for a 2015 SQ5? Looking to add this I want something to add some bass that's easy to remove if needed. Recommendation for a line out converter and what wires to tap into? I've been googling for an hour and can't seem to get an answer.
#3
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I guess my questions are. Should I tap into the factory subwoofer or rear speakers? Battery is under the spare right? (did a quick search). Anything else worth mentioning about installing a sub? B&O is clear but lacking some bass. Not looking to rattle windows, I just want to add filler bass.
#4
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Good question, i'm not sure. On my previous cars when I hooked into the factory system I typically used a loc and hooked up the amp with rca's. I havent used an all in one system like this before. I found a youtube video and it said you can use hi level input and hook up to factory speakers. I guess I wont need a loc then. Should I hook this up to the factory subwoofer or rear speakers? I just got my rsq yesterday and its my first audi so im clueless about the car. I havent even looked to see where the battery is or any good grounds for the amp. I'm going on vacation in a few days and making a list of a few items I want to buy and install when I get back.
I guess my questions are. Should I tap into the factory subwoofer or rear speakers? Battery is under the spare right? (did a quick search). Anything else worth mentioning about installing a sub? B&O is clear but lacking some bass. Not looking to rattle windows, I just want to add filler bass.
I guess my questions are. Should I tap into the factory subwoofer or rear speakers? Battery is under the spare right? (did a quick search). Anything else worth mentioning about installing a sub? B&O is clear but lacking some bass. Not looking to rattle windows, I just want to add filler bass.
#5
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'B&O is clear but lacking some bass. Not looking to rattle windows, I just want to add filler bass."
You might want to confirm that the B&O system itself is capable of providing that bass in the first place. If the system cuts off at 200Hz...there's just nothing for a subwoofer to crank out at 20Hz. And somewhere in between those two (20+200) are where everyone draws arbitrary lines. If you want 20-20k flat response, I don't think any OEM car system will have it.
You might want to confirm that the B&O system itself is capable of providing that bass in the first place. If the system cuts off at 200Hz...there's just nothing for a subwoofer to crank out at 20Hz. And somewhere in between those two (20+200) are where everyone draws arbitrary lines. If you want 20-20k flat response, I don't think any OEM car system will have it.
#6
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'B&O is clear but lacking some bass. Not looking to rattle windows, I just want to add filler bass."
You might want to confirm that the B&O system itself is capable of providing that bass in the first place. If the system cuts off at 200Hz...there's just nothing for a subwoofer to crank out at 20Hz. And somewhere in between those two (20+200) are where everyone draws arbitrary lines. If you want 20-20k flat response, I don't think any OEM car system will have it.
You might want to confirm that the B&O system itself is capable of providing that bass in the first place. If the system cuts off at 200Hz...there's just nothing for a subwoofer to crank out at 20Hz. And somewhere in between those two (20+200) are where everyone draws arbitrary lines. If you want 20-20k flat response, I don't think any OEM car system will have it.
#7
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Yes there's no subject that's more subjective than sound system impressions.When I bought mine I sat in a B & O equipped Q5 for like 20 mins.and played all media, I wasn't sufficiently impressed to fork out the cash.I listen to tunes constantly while driving, primarilarly streamed via BT & Google play on my phone, but I've got 300+ tunes in my jukebox.Overall I'm pretty satisfied.Sub is just fine.I don't listen to opera, mostly stuff like Stones, AC/DC ,Doors, Who,ZEP, April Wine etc.It works fine for me.
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#8
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"There is bass in the B&O system but the volume needs to be 20+ to hear it. When the system is up really loud it actually has decent bass. "
To me, that sounds like instead of being 20-20khz with a flat response, it might be 6db down from flat by 200 Hz, so "there's no bass until you crank it" because really, there's a very weak bass response. Bass notes demand the most power from the amps and from the power supply in general. One year they put a POS cassette deck in my car, and when the cannon fired (on a metal tape from a master recording of the 1812 Overture) the radio literally WENT SILENT because it couldn't supply any power at that low a frequency.
I'm spoiled, I used to have a 20-20khz flat system with speakers that were only 100-20Khz flat, more or less. But my ears are no longer that good and I never expect that kind of tone range in a car. Last month some Caribbean festival dancers went by at a parade, and the one with a big drum went THUMP in a way that any car stereo would be pressed to match. Reality check!
Murray, sounds like we're both stuck in the last century. Except, over the course of a few years trying to downsize, I've put an awful lot into digital format. The little USB fingernail in the car randomly plays some 12,000 tunes, and I'd like a few words with whoever wrote the "random" algorithm for Audi, because it sure as hell ain't.
The bass? Well, it beats the astounding Phillips Carry Corder that I once had. Before that, we had a choice of "hum? or whistle?"
To me, that sounds like instead of being 20-20khz with a flat response, it might be 6db down from flat by 200 Hz, so "there's no bass until you crank it" because really, there's a very weak bass response. Bass notes demand the most power from the amps and from the power supply in general. One year they put a POS cassette deck in my car, and when the cannon fired (on a metal tape from a master recording of the 1812 Overture) the radio literally WENT SILENT because it couldn't supply any power at that low a frequency.
I'm spoiled, I used to have a 20-20khz flat system with speakers that were only 100-20Khz flat, more or less. But my ears are no longer that good and I never expect that kind of tone range in a car. Last month some Caribbean festival dancers went by at a parade, and the one with a big drum went THUMP in a way that any car stereo would be pressed to match. Reality check!
Murray, sounds like we're both stuck in the last century. Except, over the course of a few years trying to downsize, I've put an awful lot into digital format. The little USB fingernail in the car randomly plays some 12,000 tunes, and I'd like a few words with whoever wrote the "random" algorithm for Audi, because it sure as hell ain't.
The bass? Well, it beats the astounding Phillips Carry Corder that I once had. Before that, we had a choice of "hum? or whistle?"
#10
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More than the Carry Corder, for sure.
But as best I can tell, all "digital" inputs, whether they are CD, DVD, USB or other, are treated equally in the "radio". Usually the better cassette players were somewhere between the FM and digital response, and all the "better" digital media schemes (24-bit, high resolution, etc.) are still pretty much unicorns. 16-bit CD audio ain't such a bad compromise unless the car is in an acoustic chamber.(G)
Never having to listen to scratches and pops again...priceless!
I'm just waiting for some of the better Japanese home market only digital players get mainlined into the US. (Generic Android OS, so lots of players can be used, no funky menu logic to learn, 512GB of SDXC storage, so they'll hold FLAC libraries, and argubaly damn good DACs, even if they earheads argue over which ones are best, they're all better than what our phones of car audios use.)
But as best I can tell, all "digital" inputs, whether they are CD, DVD, USB or other, are treated equally in the "radio". Usually the better cassette players were somewhere between the FM and digital response, and all the "better" digital media schemes (24-bit, high resolution, etc.) are still pretty much unicorns. 16-bit CD audio ain't such a bad compromise unless the car is in an acoustic chamber.(G)
Never having to listen to scratches and pops again...priceless!
I'm just waiting for some of the better Japanese home market only digital players get mainlined into the US. (Generic Android OS, so lots of players can be used, no funky menu logic to learn, 512GB of SDXC storage, so they'll hold FLAC libraries, and argubaly damn good DACs, even if they earheads argue over which ones are best, they're all better than what our phones of car audios use.)