SQ5 Tow Hitch
#32
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: California
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was facing the same thing for the same reason, and ended up going with the OEM Audi hitch. Then I took the valence piece and trimmed it so that it fits nicely around the hitch for a clean look. Finished it off with an OEM hitch cap, and it looks the part!
Sorry for the garbage photo - I took this in the garage and had to lighten it up in Photoshop:
![](https://i.imgur.com/Ncm4qcEh.jpg)
Sorry for the garbage photo - I took this in the garage and had to lighten it up in Photoshop:
![](https://i.imgur.com/Ncm4qcEh.jpg)
Last edited by auntrout; 01-15-2017 at 10:35 AM.
#33
AudiWorld Member
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Can you explain how you trimmed the valence piece. Your installation looks so clean, like it was done at the factory. Wondering if you used a Dremel rotary tool and if so what type of cutter tip (fiber cut off wheel or metal saw blade). Also how did you get such nice 90 degree corners?
#34
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: California
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks jsilas. Did you start the cut on the back side of the valance or the front side (painted side)? I was worried about the paint possibly chipping? Did you have any issues with this. I may be over thinking this but did not want to have to buy another valance piece if a screw up the one that came with the vehicle.
#35
AudiWorld Member
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If memory serves, I carefully traced out with a Sharpie on the back side where I wanted the hole to be. I then began cutting from the back side, keeping the cut lines as straight as possible to the traced line I drew prior. Then I just cleaned up the edges and installed. I had no issues of any kind with paint chipping.
#36
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: California
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If memory serves, I carefully traced out with a Sharpie on the back side where I wanted the hole to be. I then began cutting from the back side, keeping the cut lines as straight as possible to the traced line I drew prior. Then I just cleaned up the edges and installed. I had no issues of any kind with paint chipping.
#37
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If memory serves, I carefully traced out with a Sharpie on the back side where I wanted the hole to be. I then began cutting from the back side, keeping the cut lines as straight as possible to the traced line I drew prior. Then I just cleaned up the edges and installed. I had no issues of any kind with paint chipping.
Best of luck,
Brian
#38
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: California
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I went the other route & used a utility/drywall knife. I used a marker to trace the shape I wanted to cut and then followed a ruler when making the cut (to keep the lines straight). First go lightly to score the plastic and then just follow your lines. The plastic is actually very soft, so it's quite easy to do if you go slowly. I went this route because I did some test cuts with a rotary tool on some old plastic and found that it melted it.
Best of luck,
Brian
Best of luck,
Brian
#40
AudiWorld Super User
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Any time you are using power tools on plastic, if the tool speed is too high it will melt the plastic instead of cutting it. Even using a jigsaw or drill on 1/4" plexi, same problem, and the plastic can actually reseal behind the blade when you are cutting the material. The trick is to use the correct blade for the material, and to run it slowly, so it cuts without slagging the plastic down.
I chose to use a "Japanese" trim saw, the kind that you pull instead of push, which has no offset on the blades and is use for flush cutting wood bungs and similar. A whole ten bucks, made by Stanley and others in the US these days. It makes a clean *straight* cut in the plastic.
FWIW.
I chose to use a "Japanese" trim saw, the kind that you pull instead of push, which has no offset on the blades and is use for flush cutting wood bungs and similar. A whole ten bucks, made by Stanley and others in the US these days. It makes a clean *straight* cut in the plastic.
FWIW.