wiring extra lights
12-17-2012, 07:16 AM
#31
this was what i said "their good for off road rally. but not for daily driving." please read carefully when replying. There are numerous members here do not read carefully before replying. Just remember, not all members are from Sweden....Once again i appolize as well.
also wires MUST be done professionally to avoid burning the wires. Here in US, 55w HID kit may burn wires on cars if they are not suitable for 55w usage. I believe highbeams have higher voltage lines but adding to a 55w hid kit will increase the voltage and heat to the wires. My friend owns a Car Alarm and Car Entertainment system shop. I should know these stuff.
also wires MUST be done professionally to avoid burning the wires. Here in US, 55w HID kit may burn wires on cars if they are not suitable for 55w usage. I believe highbeams have higher voltage lines but adding to a 55w hid kit will increase the voltage and heat to the wires. My friend owns a Car Alarm and Car Entertainment system shop. I should know these stuff.
As I have said, you should never hook anything extra up using the cars original wiring. You use a relay and feed the current through it. The only original wiring you use is the control signal for the relay. The wires you use depends on the power you need and for something like 3 x 55W as in my example I use 6 mm2 (10 AWD gauge).
The HID is different if you consider the part between the ballast and the bulb. It has a separate wire and is using nomially 80-85V to keep the Xenon gas burning. But in order to ignite the gas, a short electrical burst of 25000V (yes) is used. But it is very short, and immediately after the gas (Xenon is a gas) has ignite it goes to 80-85V to just keep it burning.
So, there you have some more on the subject of electricity and wiring.
12-17-2012, 07:50 AM
#32
Well, first off there is a distinct difference between voltage and current. The voltage in most cars (even in US) is 12V (14,4V charging). The more power (which is measured in Watts) you draw the higher current (ampere), P (power) = U (V) * I (A). The heat in the wire comes from the current and the resistance in the wire. Thinner wire, higher resistance and thus higher power loss and heat in the wire.
As I have said, you should never hook anything extra up using the cars original wiring. You use a relay and feed the current through it. The only original wiring you use is the control signal for the relay. The wires you use depends on the power you need and for something like 3 x 55W as in my example I use 6 mm2 (10 AWD gauge).
The HID is different if you consider the part between the ballast and the bulb. It has a separate wire and is using nomially 80-85V to keep the Xenon gas burning. But in order to ignite the gas, a short electrical burst of 25000V (yes) is used. But it is very short, and immediately after the gas (Xenon is a gas) has ignite it goes to 80-85V to just keep it burning.
So, there you have some more on the subject of electricity and wiring.
As I have said, you should never hook anything extra up using the cars original wiring. You use a relay and feed the current through it. The only original wiring you use is the control signal for the relay. The wires you use depends on the power you need and for something like 3 x 55W as in my example I use 6 mm2 (10 AWD gauge).
The HID is different if you consider the part between the ballast and the bulb. It has a separate wire and is using nomially 80-85V to keep the Xenon gas burning. But in order to ignite the gas, a short electrical burst of 25000V (yes) is used. But it is very short, and immediately after the gas (Xenon is a gas) has ignite it goes to 80-85V to just keep it burning.
So, there you have some more on the subject of electricity and wiring.
12-19-2022, 09:03 PM
#33
Love it! Where is the fuse for the high-beams to tap into?
I can easily hook these up with a remote switch instead, but would rather hook them up to my high-beams (with a bypass switch).
12-19-2022, 09:05 PM
#34
Adding driving lights hooked into high beam switch
I have a 2011 Q7, I also have the fuse terminal location and schematics. Nothing states where the high beam.P fuse is? They show a left headlight and a right headlight but nothing specific to the high beam switch??I purchased the fuse taps to tap into the fuse terminal, I just can’t figure out which fuse(s) it is?
I can easily hook these up with a remote switch instead, but would rather hook them up to my high-beams (with a bypass switch).
I can easily hook these up with a remote switch instead, but would rather hook them up to my high-beams (with a bypass switch).
sorry, I know this is a very old thread. Just curious to see if you’re still there.
12-20-2022, 02:27 AM
#35
AudiWorld Super User
12-20-2022, 02:38 AM
#36
AudiWorld Super User
I have a 2011 Q7, I also have the fuse terminal location and schematics. Nothing states where the high beam.P fuse is? They show a left headlight and a right headlight but nothing specific to the high beam switch??I purchased the fuse taps to tap into the fuse terminal, I just can’t figure out which fuse(s) it is?
I can easily hook these up with a remote switch instead, but would rather hook them up to my high-beams (with a bypass switch).
I can easily hook these up with a remote switch instead, but would rather hook them up to my high-beams (with a bypass switch).
There are only three fuses for the lights and they are:
One 5A fuse for:
Headlight range control regulator -E102-
Left headlight range control motor -V48-
Right headlight range control motor -V49-
Left headlight -10A
Right headlight -10A
Last edited by spijun; 12-20-2022 at 02:58 AM.
12-20-2022, 07:05 AM
#37
There is no fuse for high beam in Q7
There are only three fuses for the lights and they are:
One 5A fuse for:
Headlight range control regulator -E102-
Left headlight range control motor -V48-
Right headlight range control motor -V49-
Left headlight -10A
Right headlight -10A
There are only three fuses for the lights and they are:
One 5A fuse for:
Headlight range control regulator -E102-
Left headlight range control motor -V48-
Right headlight range control motor -V49-
Left headlight -10A
Right headlight -10A
So then how did you wire the lights to be switched with the high beams (high beam switch)?
Thanks!
01-06-2023, 10:25 AM
#39
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there is no fuse for headlights in Audis as they use circuit breakers in the headlight control module.
I think the only easy solution is to tap the high beam output wire from the light switch, or the high-low switch on the stalk.
Alternatively you could tap the high beam wire closer to the headlight, and run the wire all the way into the cabin, but that seems unnecessary.
text me know your solution please.
01-06-2023, 11:48 AM
#40
I wound-up just using a wiring harness with a wireless remote included, and all is good. No going thru the firewall to place a switch.
Alternatively, before the remote, I did wire the 12v to the q5 fog lights directly. For a multitude of reasons, this set-up didn’t work.
I’ve hooked-up a wireless remote set-up now on both my 2015 Q5 & 2011 Q7. Love it.
Alternatively, before the remote, I did wire the 12v to the q5 fog lights directly. For a multitude of reasons, this set-up didn’t work.
I’ve hooked-up a wireless remote set-up now on both my 2015 Q5 & 2011 Q7. Love it.
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