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2018 Audi SQ5 5200 miles and 3 months old. This is my first oil change and even though Audi says every 10k, I am aiming to do every 5k - especially this first one.
This is only for the GEN II Audi SQ5 3.0L engine. (Note daberlin posted an oil change thread here for draining out through the oil pan.
Tools and Supplies
Any Flat Head Screwdriver
32mm Socket
Torque Wrench (see notes below)
8L (8x1L bottles (1.05 Quart) of Castrol Edge 0W-20. VW 508/509 Spec Oil (Part Number G-E52-577-1L-DSP)
1 Oil Filter and O ring (Part Number 06M 198 405 F)
Audi SQ5 Oil Service Fill Requirements
7.25L (7.7 Quarts) Oil
Oil Filter Cap Torque: 25 Nm
Level of Complexity
1.5 out of 5
Time
1.5 hours
Remember
Change the oil on a level surface.
I used the Europaparts kit for about $96 + $30 shipping. It comes with 8 liters of oil plus the oil filter and O ring.
Grab right and left sides of the cover near the front attachment points. The cover pops out fairly easily. Move on to the back.
Inside view of the attachment points
Location of the oil filter housing and the dip stick tube.
To remove the plug covering the dip stick tube, insert something sturdy in the hole of the plug and pull. I used a drill chuck key.
To pump out the oil, I used an electric extractor:
. It took about 20 minutes but likely would have been less if the car was on a more level surface.
I paid $143 on Amazon, but the price appears to have gone up. A manual option is the
for $100. From what I've read, the manual ones sometimes have vacuum issues and then you have to pump and pump. For a few extra bucks, I wanted a solution that was not going to be frustrating.
The 1/4" tube goes approximately 36" down into the dip stick tube. During the process I found that I had to pull back on the tube to keep the oil flowing. I suspect I had the tube all the way to the back of the oil pan and as the oil drained I needed to pull the tube forward because the back of the pan emptied first - probably because I was on a slight incline.
Remove the oil filter cover with a 32mm socket (1 1/4")
The filter pops up with the cap.
The O ring comes off with a flat head screwdriver. After removing the O ring, insert the new O ring on the cap (my oil filter came with with the O ring). Make sure to rub some old oil on the rubber ring first. Insert the filter and hand screw the cap back into the casing. The oil filter cap says 25Nm. I used a regular wrench and not a torque wrench. It was fairly easy to detect when the cap was fully seated. If you choose to forego the torque wrench - BE CAREFUL not to over tighten!
UPDATE: Since I happened to have a torque wrench on hand, I decided to re-tighten the cap and see how it compared to doing it without. In the end, I was not comfortable pulling hard enough for get the "click" at the setting of 25Nm. - because of the nature of how the plastic cap with rubber O ring screwed on (it screwed on in a jerky motion - not smoothly - and made noises of its own) and because I was reasonably certain that it was screwed on tight enough not to loosen. I'd be curious of others' experiences with this
Since this was my first time using this method, I roughly measured the amount of oil extracted to make sure I was in the ballpark. When I was satisfied, it was time to... Replace the dip stick plug. Replace the engine cover. Fill with 6 liters of oil. Turn on the power and bring up the MMI Service menu and check the oil. Fill with remaining 1.25 liters for a total of 7.25 making sure not to over fill.
I discovered that my garage slab was not level. After adding 7 liters (and the MMI saying full) I pulled my car out (I had backed in) and pulled back in nose first, I re-checked the oil level. I was down a over a liter! I leveled the car using wooden blocks and added my remaining 250ml (1/4 liter) and it still says I'm down about a liter.
I will go to a service station where I know (hope) I have level ground and measure again. I am hesitant to add more than the stated max of 7.25 liters. Most garage slabs have some slope toward the garage door for drainage - mine is apparently more extreme. UPDATE: The oil level read full at the service station - I have the new task of figuring out how to level the car in mine for the next oil change.
The only annoyance with changing the oil was that after the oil was added, I ran the car and then shut it off. I then went to re-check the oil level and the MMI wouldn't let me, giving a message that said I had to wait 2 minutes. But it was much longer. I had to completely shut the car down and wait and wait.
Last edited by spindlewood; 07-29-2018 at 08:53 AM.
Just did this, only I have the peasant mityvac pump. Probably the easiest oil change I've ever done. Glad they have the filter up top so no reason to get on the ground. Probably took a good 20 minutes with my extractor as well.
Spindle, check the oil level in the MMI system in a few days after the car has been driven. Don't overfill the crankcase.
This raises the question, with the MMI, how do you know if the oil is over filled? The reading of the level on the screen doesn't show above max. With a dip stick you can physically see if it goes above the max level. Seems odd that you can't see this with the MMI.
Very nice write up. I'm going to check out electric extractor on Amazon.
Question: if I were to remove the oil filter without extracting the oil, will oil spill out? I am thinking about just replacing oil filter at 5k miles and change oils at every 10k miles.
I have never changed oil on vehicle with oil filter located at the top.
07-28-2018, 10:15 PM
2018 Audi SQ5 Oil Change via Extraction
