Modifying Q5 cross bars to fit 2018 DIY
06-18-2018, 06:49 AM
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Modifying Q5 cross bars to fit 2018 DIY
We recently purchased a new Q5, and were disappointed to learn the 2010 cross bars did not fit the 2018. Since I am thrifty (cheap), and did not want to pay nearly $500 for new bars, I decided to modify the old bars to fit the new car, which was quite straight forward. In a nutshell, all you have to do is:
Remove the rubber strip from the top of the bars, just pull it up.
Pull out the plastic end cap, and then remove the 2 allen bolts that attach the clamp to the bar. There is a small black metal plate inside the bar that acts as a stiffener, remove this also. Of course you only have to modify one end of the bars. Do not forget to reinstall the metal plate after drilling new holes, (which are really slots, to allow for fine adjustments).
Cut off 3/8" from the front bar (I used a chop saw, can also use a hacksaw), and 2" from the rear bar. Try to replicate the existing angle of cut, this is not critical, but is around 25 degrees.
Drill out new holes (actually slots) 3/8" inboard of the existing holes on front bar (you can also use a dremel cutting wheel to extend the existing holes). You can clean up the holes with a file if you do not have a dremel.
On the rear bars, after cutting off 2" from the end, you need to drill new holes/slots 2" inboard of the existing holes, and again clean up with a dremel or file. I think the holes are 1 3/4" apart, but measure to be sure.
You will very likely need a second set of hands when reattaching the clamps to the bars, as there is a metal plate with 2 holes inside the clamp that is threaded, which must be aligned with the allen bolts, and it takes a few minutes to align it properly so the bolts will engage the plate threads. Make sure to include the metal plate inside the bars also. This plate is identical to the one inside the clamp, except it is not threaded. Do not tighten the allen bolts, just get them started. Before you insert the outermost allen bolt, reinsert the black end cap so the outer bolt passes through the hole in the end cap. This will be obvious when you look at it.
Put the bars on the roof rails, and adjust the clamp so the pins fully engage the existing holes in the roof rails (this is critical to ensure it will not loosen), tighten the clamp with the special tool that comes with the bars, and then tighten the allen bolts.
Finally reinstall the rubber strip by pushing it down into the groove. You will need to cut the rear strip about 2", the front should be ok.
This entire process took about 45 minutes, working slowly. Could do it again in half the time, the whole process is not hard, If you have a drill press and dremel it is easier, but could probably be done with a hand drill and file also.
Sorry if this has already been posted, but I did not see this on a quick search. If you have any questions, just PM me. Describing the process is harder than actually doing it. Most of this stuff is obvious once you look at the way things fit together.
Matt
Remove the rubber strip from the top of the bars, just pull it up.
Pull out the plastic end cap, and then remove the 2 allen bolts that attach the clamp to the bar. There is a small black metal plate inside the bar that acts as a stiffener, remove this also. Of course you only have to modify one end of the bars. Do not forget to reinstall the metal plate after drilling new holes, (which are really slots, to allow for fine adjustments).
Cut off 3/8" from the front bar (I used a chop saw, can also use a hacksaw), and 2" from the rear bar. Try to replicate the existing angle of cut, this is not critical, but is around 25 degrees.
Drill out new holes (actually slots) 3/8" inboard of the existing holes on front bar (you can also use a dremel cutting wheel to extend the existing holes). You can clean up the holes with a file if you do not have a dremel.
On the rear bars, after cutting off 2" from the end, you need to drill new holes/slots 2" inboard of the existing holes, and again clean up with a dremel or file. I think the holes are 1 3/4" apart, but measure to be sure.
You will very likely need a second set of hands when reattaching the clamps to the bars, as there is a metal plate with 2 holes inside the clamp that is threaded, which must be aligned with the allen bolts, and it takes a few minutes to align it properly so the bolts will engage the plate threads. Make sure to include the metal plate inside the bars also. This plate is identical to the one inside the clamp, except it is not threaded. Do not tighten the allen bolts, just get them started. Before you insert the outermost allen bolt, reinsert the black end cap so the outer bolt passes through the hole in the end cap. This will be obvious when you look at it.
Put the bars on the roof rails, and adjust the clamp so the pins fully engage the existing holes in the roof rails (this is critical to ensure it will not loosen), tighten the clamp with the special tool that comes with the bars, and then tighten the allen bolts.
Finally reinstall the rubber strip by pushing it down into the groove. You will need to cut the rear strip about 2", the front should be ok.
This entire process took about 45 minutes, working slowly. Could do it again in half the time, the whole process is not hard, If you have a drill press and dremel it is easier, but could probably be done with a hand drill and file also.
Sorry if this has already been posted, but I did not see this on a quick search. If you have any questions, just PM me. Describing the process is harder than actually doing it. Most of this stuff is obvious once you look at the way things fit together.
Matt
06-18-2018, 09:13 AM
#2
We recently purchased a new Q5, and were disappointed to learn the 2010 cross bars did not fit the 2018. Since I am thrifty (cheap), and did not want to pay nearly $500 for new bars, I decided to modify the old bars to fit the new car, which was quite straight forward. In a nutshell, all you have to do is:
Remove the rubber strip from the top of the bars, just pull it up.
Pull out the plastic end cap, and then remove the 2 allen bolts that attach the clamp to the bar. There is a small black metal plate inside the bar that acts as a stiffener, remove this also. Of course you only have to modify one end of the bars. Do not forget to reinstall the metal plate after drilling new holes, (which are really slots, to allow for fine adjustments).
Cut off 3/8" from the front bar (I used a chop saw, can also use a hacksaw), and 2" from the rear bar. Try to replicate the existing angle of cut, this is not critical, but is around 25 degrees.
Drill out new holes (actually slots) 3/8" inboard of the existing holes on front bar (you can also use a dremel cutting wheel to extend the existing holes). You can clean up the holes with a file if you do not have a dremel.
On the rear bars, after cutting off 2" from the end, you need to drill new holes/slots 2" inboard of the existing holes, and again clean up with a dremel or file. I think the holes are 1 3/4" apart, but measure to be sure.
You will very likely need a second set of hands when reattaching the clamps to the bars, as there is a metal plate with 2 holes inside the clamp that is threaded, which must be aligned with the allen bolts, and it takes a few minutes to align it properly so the bolts will engage the plate threads. Make sure to include the metal plate inside the bars also. This plate is identical to the one inside the clamp, except it is not threaded. Do not tighten the allen bolts, just get them started. Before you insert the outermost allen bolt, reinsert the black end cap so the outer bolt passes through the hole in the end cap. This will be obvious when you look at it.
Put the bars on the roof rails, and adjust the clamp so the pins fully engage the existing holes in the roof rails (this is critical to ensure it will not loosen), tighten the clamp with the special tool that comes with the bars, and then tighten the allen bolts.
Finally reinstall the rubber strip by pushing it down into the groove. You will need to cut the rear strip about 2", the front should be ok.
This entire process took about 45 minutes, working slowly. Could do it again in half the time, the whole process is not hard, If you have a drill press and dremel it is easier, but could probably be done with a hand drill and file also.
Sorry if this has already been posted, but I did not see this on a quick search. If you have any questions, just PM me. Describing the process is harder than actually doing it. Most of this stuff is obvious once you look at the way things fit together.
Matt
Remove the rubber strip from the top of the bars, just pull it up.
Pull out the plastic end cap, and then remove the 2 allen bolts that attach the clamp to the bar. There is a small black metal plate inside the bar that acts as a stiffener, remove this also. Of course you only have to modify one end of the bars. Do not forget to reinstall the metal plate after drilling new holes, (which are really slots, to allow for fine adjustments).
Cut off 3/8" from the front bar (I used a chop saw, can also use a hacksaw), and 2" from the rear bar. Try to replicate the existing angle of cut, this is not critical, but is around 25 degrees.
Drill out new holes (actually slots) 3/8" inboard of the existing holes on front bar (you can also use a dremel cutting wheel to extend the existing holes). You can clean up the holes with a file if you do not have a dremel.
On the rear bars, after cutting off 2" from the end, you need to drill new holes/slots 2" inboard of the existing holes, and again clean up with a dremel or file. I think the holes are 1 3/4" apart, but measure to be sure.
You will very likely need a second set of hands when reattaching the clamps to the bars, as there is a metal plate with 2 holes inside the clamp that is threaded, which must be aligned with the allen bolts, and it takes a few minutes to align it properly so the bolts will engage the plate threads. Make sure to include the metal plate inside the bars also. This plate is identical to the one inside the clamp, except it is not threaded. Do not tighten the allen bolts, just get them started. Before you insert the outermost allen bolt, reinsert the black end cap so the outer bolt passes through the hole in the end cap. This will be obvious when you look at it.
Put the bars on the roof rails, and adjust the clamp so the pins fully engage the existing holes in the roof rails (this is critical to ensure it will not loosen), tighten the clamp with the special tool that comes with the bars, and then tighten the allen bolts.
Finally reinstall the rubber strip by pushing it down into the groove. You will need to cut the rear strip about 2", the front should be ok.
This entire process took about 45 minutes, working slowly. Could do it again in half the time, the whole process is not hard, If you have a drill press and dremel it is easier, but could probably be done with a hand drill and file also.
Sorry if this has already been posted, but I did not see this on a quick search. If you have any questions, just PM me. Describing the process is harder than actually doing it. Most of this stuff is obvious once you look at the way things fit together.
Matt
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Rafterman (11-02-2019)
06-18-2018, 11:01 AM
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06-18-2018, 11:09 AM
#4
06-18-2018, 01:27 PM
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
06-18-2018, 01:43 PM
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Since I had the old bars lying about, and I hate to see good stuff go in the dumpster, I decided to modify my old ones, which were in great condition. So for me, I had no interest in buying new ones. The buyer of my old Q5 had no use for them. Also, I kind of like DIY projects.
06-18-2018, 05:37 PM
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I recycled ours too
Coincidentally, I completed the same recycle today and came here to ask a follow up question.
The rear bar is one inch lower than the front due to the car’s sloping rear. I’m wondering if this will be problematic when a cargo container is mounted. I don’t want the sloping container to create a wing effect during highway speeds.
If you’re reading this and have a 2018 with the newer generation of cross bars, can you tell us if the rear bar is taller and level with the front one?
P.S. Use a 5/16 inch bit to drill the bolt access hole/slot in the tops on the bars. 3/8 inch is too snug for the bolt heads to pass through.
The rear bar is one inch lower than the front due to the car’s sloping rear. I’m wondering if this will be problematic when a cargo container is mounted. I don’t want the sloping container to create a wing effect during highway speeds.
If you’re reading this and have a 2018 with the newer generation of cross bars, can you tell us if the rear bar is taller and level with the front one?
P.S. Use a 5/16 inch bit to drill the bolt access hole/slot in the tops on the bars. 3/8 inch is too snug for the bolt heads to pass through.
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06-19-2018, 01:02 PM
#8
Coincidentally, I completed the same recycle today and came here to ask a follow up question.
The rear bar is one inch lower than the front due to the car’s sloping rear. I’m wondering if this will be problematic when a cargo container is mounted. I don’t want the sloping container to create a wing effect during highway speeds.
If you’re reading this and have a 2018 with the newer generation of cross bars, can you tell us if the rear bar is taller and level with the front one?
P.S. Use a 5/16 inch bit to drill the bolt access hole/slot in the tops on the bars. 3/8 inch is too snug for the bolt heads to pass through.
The rear bar is one inch lower than the front due to the car’s sloping rear. I’m wondering if this will be problematic when a cargo container is mounted. I don’t want the sloping container to create a wing effect during highway speeds.
If you’re reading this and have a 2018 with the newer generation of cross bars, can you tell us if the rear bar is taller and level with the front one?
P.S. Use a 5/16 inch bit to drill the bolt access hole/slot in the tops on the bars. 3/8 inch is too snug for the bolt heads to pass through.
I recall a thread somewhere, probably on the "old style" Q5 board where a guy inserted plastic blocks between the mounts and the crossbars to get the rear bar level with the front. It had good directions and photos.
06-19-2018, 05:41 PM
#9
Audiworld Junior Member
06-20-2018, 06:55 AM
#10
AudiWorld Member
Damn. I tossed the old bars in the back of my '13 when I traded it in--never occurred to me that this could be done, and I might have given it a try. Of course, since the old ones were still in the original package after 5 years of ownership it's probably not a great loss.