Phknlwyr

Our 2009 TDI turned 29,000 miles and we started to hear some squealing from the brakes and the pads wear sensor light came on. I did some research and decided to buy custom rotors from Adam's Rotors. I went with slotted rotors with Posi-Quiet pads. Feeling emboldened, I decided I wanted to shed my suit and tie court uniform for coveralls and gloves and attack the project myself. I searched for a thread on AW for a full brake replacement on a late model Q7 but found precious little. I read enough to be dangerous and found great info here http://gigaloop.com/rearbrakes/ from a similar brake job.

I was able to follow the directions on the above link and successfully replaced the front rotors and pads. It was quite simple once the tire and caliper brackets were removed. As mentioned in the link above, the rear caliper bolts were unbelievably tight. I could not remove them despite any and all efforts. As a result, I went to the mechanic this morning, defeated, but now have the new pads and rotors on the rears as well. This weekend's project: installing Adams Rotors and StopTech Streets on the S6. Will post pics soon.

But the main point of this thread is to let other Q7 owners know that about the link with pictures and directions that I found VERY useful when trying to change my brakes. Good luck.

StFrancis

may I add a youtube video demonstrating how to replace the front pads?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOx4w...eature=related

Jusforfun

OK except that is a demo of front brakes which are the same as Q7 rear brakes. I notice the demonstrator made no effort to clean the shaft of the locating pin/bar between ends so he immediatly hammered the dirt into the oposite side effectively jamming it! (not a problem with Q7 front end as it is waisted... thinner in the middle)
This Audiworld Wiki Q7 is better Also to be found via this thread from old96A4
Another thread

The guy in teh Porsche video wasted so much time by not simply pushing the calipers back with the old pads before he extracted them. Less risk of pinching a seal, less chance of one side coming out in response to the other being pushed back. Just lever the pads against each other, less risk of damaging rotor and guarenteed to push them just the right distance. If he used a large screwdriver to hold back the locating or anti vibration spring once he cleared teh first half he would have found the pressure not being on the pin would have made it a finger pull instead of a hammer fest.
My advise is to replace the sensors they get so brittle from the heat they are not worth using again.
Yes you can just tuck a damaged or broken one out of the way temporarily but in an insuarance claim you can be sure they will have a field day with you!
There is not VAG COM reset for triggered sensors just replace thenm and the light goes off.
It may be worth noting that its virtually impossible to replace them on older pads as they wear down with them. Bringing a new set may mean the brake pressure will be applied to the sensor before the pads touch the rotor, instantly snapping them. There is some leeway/slack but you will see how worn down the old set are when you extract them.
I would also note the sensors have two thin wires inside a larger looses red sleeve. They are free to move around inside the sleeve so when threading them through the slot in the casting of brake assembly first roll the sleeve back and foward between your fingers to make them flat (side by side not twisted or bunched up) then they go in really easily. Mr Speedy Porsche man could have saved more time there too.